Solution for Stuck Seatposts

[chismog]

Apologies if this has been previously posted here. I've never seen this solution before! A long video, but you can skip to the good stuff.

https://youtu.be/mJ8R_Dqk1u0?si=JJfUeW1pl0nwGiyj

The engineer in me loves this. Full banana.

[Veloo]

Great vid.
Too bad many of us don't have (easy) access to a machine shop and materials.
He should sell it to bike shops.

[duff_duffy]

Wow could I have used his setup a few times over the years! Cool video.

[hokoman]

I've seen a couple of those on the internet the last couple of years, this video was a lot more detailed though. Thankfully, I have never needed one of these!

[FriarQuade]

I want to try this with our forklift!

I've also had a 100% success rate with reaming seized seat posts out with an adjustable reamer. It's not fast but it's always worked with metal posts.

[bikinchris]

The bike shop/ carbon repair shop I worked at has one of these they built powered by a hydraulic jack.

[MikeD]

I think it may put too much stress in the frame. I like the reamer idea better.

[Louis]

Originally Posted by MikeD

I think it may put too much stress in the frame. I like the reamer idea better.

+1

I'd gladly sacrifice the seatpost to spare the frame all that stress.

[Nomadmax]

As others have said, that seems like a great way to pull a seat tube out of a bottom bracket lug.

[marciero]

Originally Posted by MikeD

I think it may put too much stress in the frame. I like the reamer idea better.

That wont work on the carbon odd shaped post he did at the end. Also, with a reamer seems like no margin of error - you need the exact size, and even then difficult to not foul the inside of the seatpost somewhat.

[unterhausen]

Originally Posted by FriarQuade

I've also had a 100% success rate with reaming seized seat posts out with an adjustable reamer.

I have a fixture to mount frames in my lathe. First time I tried it, I used a drill bit that was too close to the size of the seat post and destroyed the seat tube with the chips. Amazing how fragile a steel seat tube is. Haven't had the opportunity to try again, I have been thinking about using a boring bar mounted in the chuck next time.

[eddief]

on his day off?

[MikeD]

Originally Posted by marciero

That wont work on the carbon odd shaped post he did at the end. Also, with a reamer seems like no margin of error - you need the exact size, and even then difficult to not foul the inside of the seatpost somewhat.

I've actually not seen a carbon seatpost seize, only aluminum. Stems too. They say not to grease carbon seatposts. Slippage is a problem. I would think aluminum is more likely to seize, given the layer of aluminum oxide that grows on it due to oxidation and corrosion.

How's this adjustable reamer? https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...A&nis=8&adurl=

[FriarQuade]

Originally Posted by marciero

That wont work on the carbon odd shaped post he did at the end. Also, with a reamer seems like no margin of error - you need the exact size, and even then difficult to not foul the inside of the seatpost somewhat.

This is why you use an adjustable reamer. You're taking several passes and removing progressively more post material every pass. I've never had to bring the reamer closer than .010" to the nominal seat tube ID. What winds up happening is when the post is down to the thickness of a soda can, the reamer grabs the post and it comes out in one chunk. Every time I've done this it's left a pretty smooth surface on the seat tube itself, pass a ball hone through the tube and it's ready for a new post.

And you are correct that the reamer method won't work on a post that isn't round or any carbon post. I've never seen those stuck though.

FWIW, this is the kind of stuff I do for a living, your results may vary.