#61
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The manufacturer has a ebay store. The current models do 10, 11, and 12 but apparently not 13
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#62
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First world problem, IMO.
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“A bicycle is not a sofa” -- Dario Pegoretti |
#63
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One thing that sets you up for failure is putting any tool on the smaller cogs.
Whatever tool you use you want it on a cog large enough that every single slot on the tool is engaged on a tooth on the cassette. And the larger the cog is the more leverage you have to hold the cassette steady. More leverage means less physical force applied and less chance when you slip your hand flies into something hard/sharp. I am surprised even Park's own marketing tools show the whip mounted to a small cog with a bunch of the chain links hanging unused. Pedro's does too, but their tool secures the chain back on to the tool to try and avoid slippage. When you put your lockring tool in a vise and the grab the wheel you're giving yourself a huge lever arm, that's why that is easy. Last edited by benb; 09-23-2024 at 10:57 AM. |
#64
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Quote:
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Bingham/B.Jackson/Unicoi/Habanero/Raleigh20/429C/BigDummy/S6 |
#65
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How do folks bloody up their knuckles doing this?
I use one of the pin type ones with a ratcheting socket wrench. A long lever arm really helps. I pulled the wrench from my automotive tools. It's a big boi. |
#66
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Quote:
And the tool manufacturers seem to love to sell us undersized tools too. I attached a picture, I need to change a cassette right now. Park tools PW-4 for scale. I was mistaken, my whip and lock ring tool are Pedro’s. 24mm socket goes over the lock ring tool. 16” bar is used for loosening. I use the big torque wrench for the lock ring with the adapter. The only other thing I recall using the big torque wrench for on a bike is some older style BBs and cranks. Removing a cassette with this setup is significantly easier than removing a pedal. At this point most stuff on bikes is so delicate I use the 5Nm torque key way more than these wrenches. Last edited by benb; 09-23-2024 at 12:02 PM. |
#67
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Quote:
I remove lots of cassettes at work that have been used far past their prime, leading to the chain whip slipping off of worn out cogs, even big ones. In that scenario, I will actually wrap the tail of chain from the whip all the way around a smaller cog, with the "cradle" of the tool resting on top of the rest of the chain - extremely secure, even for very worn cogs. But, suffice to say, in over a decade of professional wrenching, I've never used anything for the purpose of removing a cassette other than a chain whip and my knuckles are unscathed. |
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