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  #16  
Old 09-06-2024, 10:26 AM
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AngryScientist AngryScientist is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p nut View Post
Lots of confusion here.

He’s talking about the end of the tape, not the edges along the lip of the rim.
Exactly, thanks for the photo.

The problem seems to be that over time the sealant breaks down the adhesive and the end starts peeling up, exposing more adhesive and so on...
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  #17  
Old 09-06-2024, 10:54 AM
Mikej Mikej is offline
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Just wrap it further - 6” minimum.
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  #18  
Old 09-06-2024, 11:35 AM
slambers3 slambers3 is offline
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I have noticed that sometimes it’s difficult to make a straight cut (90deg) tape end adhere to itself, especially with deeper channel tubeless rims. A diagonal or arrow shaped cut seems to work better in my experience. I also try to tape in the direction the wheel is spinning, so the tape end isn’t working against the sealant sloshing around while the tire is rotating
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  #19  
Old 09-06-2024, 11:40 AM
Mikej Mikej is offline
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Originally Posted by slambers3 View Post
I have noticed that sometimes it’s difficult to make a straight cut (90deg) tape end adhere to itself, especially with deeper channel tubeless rims. A diagonal or arrow shaped cut seems to work better in my experience. I also try to tape in the direction the wheel is spinning, so the tape end isn’t working against the sealant sloshing around while the tire is rotating
Make the cut at an angle so there is more sealing length.
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  #20  
Old 09-06-2024, 12:22 PM
tellyho tellyho is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slambers3 View Post
I have noticed that sometimes it’s difficult to make a straight cut (90deg) tape end adhere to itself, especially with deeper channel tubeless rims. A diagonal or arrow shaped cut seems to work better in my experience. I also try to tape in the direction the wheel is spinning, so the tape end isn’t working against the sealant sloshing around while the tire is rotating
Whoa, that is way more thought than I want to put into it . Superglue solves it handily.
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  #21  
Old 09-06-2024, 01:02 PM
Turkle Turkle is offline
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This is exactly why I went with a BTLOS wheelset with no spoke holes for my tubeless wheelset. I did not want to fuss with tape!

I'm sure I'll regret it if I ever damage a spoke, but in the meantime it made setup incredibly easy.
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  #22  
Old 09-06-2024, 02:33 PM
marciero marciero is offline
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Originally Posted by Turkle View Post
This is exactly why I went with a BTLOS wheelset with no spoke holes for my tubeless wheelset. I did not want to fuss with tape!

I'm sure I'll regret it if I ever damage a spoke, but in the meantime it made setup incredibly easy.
That is the one box not ticked on my new Shimano wheels that I love. Whether using tubes or tubeless, I would always opt for no access holes on carbon wheels. In unlikely event of spoke replace, just use a magnet for the nipple.
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  #23  
Old 09-06-2024, 04:14 PM
p nut p nut is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marciero View Post
That is the one box not ticked on my new Shimano wheels that I love. Whether using tubes or tubeless, I would always opt for no access holes on carbon wheels. In unlikely event of spoke replace, just use a magnet for the nipple.
Dog gone it. I am about to place an order for BTLOS for a second wheelset (650b) for my gravel bike. Being that it’ll see more offroad use, I was going to option for spoke holes. Now I’m second guessing it.

The road wheels from btlos have no spoke holes as I thought it’d be far less likely to break one on the road. Tubeless set up is a breeze.
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