Stronger Stems (building on the Thomson thread)

[echelon_john]

Hi all,
I’m a big dude and ever since I snapped a Modolo stem in a race on June 25, 1988 and impaled my thigh on the part still stuck in the steerer tube, I’ve always tried to err on the side of strength vs light weight when it comes to bars, stems & seatposts.

I’ve got Thomson X4s on all my bikes other than one Ritchey Comp I think. Knock on wood the Thomsons have been fine for me but reading the other thread got me thinking.

Are there stronger options available in conventional/“old school” lengths (e.g. 110mm, 120mm)?

I know there are bullet MTB stems in really short lengths; not interested in those.

Anyone have experience or know of testing that shows a stronger option?
Clydesdale input especially valued!
Thanks,
JC

[m_sasso]

Originally Posted by echelon_john

Hi all,
I’m a big dude and ever since I snapped a Modolo stem in a race on June 25, 1988 and impaled my thigh on the part still stuck in the steerer tube, I’ve always tried to err on the side of strength vs light weight when it comes to bars, stems & seatposts.

I’ve got Thomson X4s on all my bikes other than one Ritchey Comp I think. Knock on wood the Thomsons have been fine for me but reading the other thread got me thinking.

Are there stronger options available in conventional/“old school” lengths (e.g. 110mm, 120mm)?

I know there are bullet MTB stems in really short lengths; not interested in those.

Anyone have experience or know of testing that shows a stronger option?
Clydesdale input especially valued!
Thanks,
JC

Any forged Al stem will have a higher fracture strength than billet Al stem.

[jds108]

Agree with m_sasso's comment above. Nitto makes both quill and threadless stems in at least one steel model. (Craft models and CT81, maybe others?)

Nitto steel is what I'd be choosing.

[zzy]

The strongest stem is a plain ol forged aluminum stem with 4 bolts. If you want something ultra beefy get a 200g+ model. Thomson stuff is CNC'd out of a billet, which is why their faceplates crack so easily.

[p nut]

I’ve had issues with Thomson cracking.

Zero issues with Ritchey WCS.

[benb]

I've got an X4 sitting on my workbench new in the box and I have to admit I've even had second thoughts about installing that! (It would be almost 100% an aesthetic change.)

I had an X2 crack years ago.

Meanwhile I had 2 of the seatposts and those last forever.. but for me they always creaked. I had a silver Thomson Elite on my old MTB and I think it was basically bulletproof the entire 17 years I had that bike.

[rrudoff]

I have one X4 on my cross bike, but I replaced the faceplate screws as they were really soft and easily stripped with some higher quality SHCS I had at work. I would not be comfortable with an X2.

I have had no issues with Thomson seat posts, have several of them, but for most by current builds I have stuck with Nitto S83 seatposts and some sort of Nitto stem. I much prefer a 2 bolt seat post, and have always had issues with single bolt. I trust Nitto, though I am sure forged stems from any reputable maker are all just fine.

[StressStrain]

Are Thomson parts stuck in the 90s or do they ever update their designs?

When I see a Thomson post or stem, I always think the owner is either riding a 90s bike, or having owned a sweet bike in the 90s, wants to rep Thomson stuff on a newer bike.

[Peter P.]

TIG welded steel stems are worry-free.

Try eBay for older Salsa Cro-Moto stems.

Many framebuilders will build steel stems. I got mine from Paul Sadoff at Rock Lobster.

The only thing that will crack is the smile on your face when you see one.

[PacNW2Ford]

Generally agree on steel stems, except for these: https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2011/sa...to-fall-hazard

[skouri1]

Syntace makes very solid products. Excellent hardware as well. Rigorous testing.

[sg8357]

Simworks-Nitto, has several steel stems, some with aluminum face plates,
some with steel wrap style.

https://www.sim.works/collections/si...rks-rhonda-new

[zap]

Forged with one piece faceplate. Carbon composite stems can also be solid......Time and Zipp for example.

Back when I raced one bike had a 140 Salsa steel stem. Solid and never worried about the stem breaking.

[Hank Scorpio]

I would put good money on the Pro Vibe Track stem surviving a nuclear assault. Not light by any stretch though.

[Look585]

↑↑↑ That one is good but I've seen the carbon faceplate crack from over-torquing.

The Pro Vibe "Shamu" and Zipp SL Sprint are both track sprinter favourites with aluminum faceplates.