#16
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few thoughts, sort of random.
First, wheels have been the same for forever, in terms of hubs. 100m front, 120mm rear. Therefore you buy something for forever - get a good set of wheels and that's that - and a spare, and training. You'll see 404s and 808s and stuff for sale. It's because eventually you'll get a disk rear and some 3-4-5 spoke front. Just get those to start with. You can always move them to your new fancy bike because the axles are all the same. That is, if you decide you want a new bike (because you don't really need it). Over the course of the year I decided to commit I bought 2 good rear disk wheels and one beat one as a backup. I use a trispoke from forever ago (owned it since new, in the 90s, and I even raced it on the track so it has the proper axle on it - raced crits like that too). I have a few regular front wheels as back up, and I have like 3 of those front bolt on skewer things in my gear bag if I have to use one (Stinger 7 is my main front wheel for races, also have a trispoke clincher, and a Stinger 9, and a Stinger 6 if absolutely necessary). Second, the fit is a bit of a wild card. I use the same type of saddle (ISM) on both bikes - some people said that should not be the case but I don't know why. For bars, I now ride 38s on the road, and I'm looking for 36 road bars. I have 37s on the track bike and want narrower, 35s max. For stem length I find that too long of an reach and I'm not very stable when sprinting out of the saddle, but seated, and on the trainer, it feels great. So I'm experimenting. Right now I'm very similar to my road position (for drops / mass start). What gets me about a longer stem is the weight over the front wheel while out of the saddle. Apparently I'm quite particular about BB->drops relationship, and if the drops are not in the right place I'm not very happy. Combine that with going down a 25 degree slope or whatever it works out to as I'm jumping as hard as I can, and I feel like I could do better in terms of stability, handling, etc. Third, gearing. Learn to spin but ask around and you'll get a good idea of general gearing. Around here my very infomal surveys indicate that riders are mostly run-in 100-108", big gears are bigger, and small gears... not many people run smaller. For fast acceleration races (like a mass, standing start, one lap, 333m race) you would run a smaller gear, as low as 90" or so. In the team sprint I read somewhere the first rider (of a normal human team, not the Dutch pros) will use a 96", second a 100-104", then a 104-108" or higher for the third rider. I get stressed switching gears so I generally run one gear. I'm not technically incompetent - I wrenched for 15 years in a shop plus another 25ish outside of shops - but it's just one more thing between heats and I'm just trying to catch my breath. If you do the math / chart, you'll find that you should be able to get 3 rings and 4 cogs and cover a huge range of gearing in 4" increments or less. I have to review as I just redid mine, but after floundering with 49-50-51 (old school) I have gone to 54-56-57-58, 14-16 (and at least two chains, for different lengths). I already had the 54, 56 (as well as 49-50-51-52) so I got the 57, 58 (I think that's what I got). I don't have a 13, and don't have a 17. My disk wheels have a 14 and 15, my trainer wheel has the 16. If I need a bigger gear, I'll get it, but a 56x14 was as much as I could do last year. On the road I'm okay sprinting in a 53x12 or 53x11, but I'm not spinning and I'm also not sitting at all in a road sprint. There will be a gear that you'll be able to "sprint" in behind someone and then really increase the speed all of a sudden, while seated. If you can't do that, the gear is probably big. If you can, great, and you could experiment with the next gear up. That's my short, "been a road rider a long time and this is what I've discovered about track riding" notes. |
#17
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I checked the map, and the best I could find were either Kissena, or Londonderry NH. That's a long way to go. Edit: I just thought of something - road bike races at Lime Rock! Last edited by Louis; 05-10-2024 at 07:38 PM. |
#18
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Btw, I’m pretty sure we’ve also interacted on Reddit before and the Velo sub. Lol. |
#19
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Going to echo what most people have said here.
Bar position is higher and longer than you'd probably think. I'm a sprinter at best, and I ride 56/57cm on the road normally, but ride a 62cm with a 140mm +12 stem on the track. TBH the 140's too short and I'd prefer a 170-200mm. Narrow is aero, and therefore get the narrowest bars you are comfortable with. I ride 34's at the track, and 36-38cm everywhere else. There's been a lot of changes in the past few years for availability of bars, Velobike being the most popular for sprinters and bunch racers alike. The SKAT bars being the most common amongst the bunch racers https://www.velobike.co.nz/collectio...ance-handlebar Wheels are definitely at the lower end of things. I wouldn't really worry too much about a 3/5 spoke and disc until you get in the run of things and need to worry about those incremental gains. You'll be plenty fast with mid depth pair of carbon, or even alloy wheels with a set of quality hubs. Get used to the track, the races and strategy needed before dumping any money into a set of wheels you might not even use in the long term. I'll disagree with many, but tubulars are absolutely NOT necessary, especially for someone just getting into the sport. A nice set of clincher tires such as continental GP 5000's and latex/TPU are more than adequate for 99.9% of people out there. If clinchers are good enough for Dan Bigham to set the hour world record, they're more than good enough for the local track. https://rouleur.cc/blogs/the-rouleur...ecord-part-two Last edited by mjf; 05-10-2024 at 09:15 PM. |
#20
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I dunno about those bars yet. Lol. But I'll start getting more narrow with the next set.
And I'm on board with the clinchers. I have a new set of Vittoria Corsa G2.0's on now and they feel great. |
#21
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The one thing I've seen with narrow bars is that people start to chicken wing, negating the advantage of narrow. What's the point of going narrow if you can't ride the position? M |
#22
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Stay away from 3T Scatto copies on aliexpress or similar. They're functionally fine, but the amount of drop/reach the bars have make them horribly uncomfortable in terms of fit. Same reach/drop problem applies to the old Alpina sprint bars. Some of the other many options for bars Velobike Sprint bars - 30-35cm https://www.velobike.co.nz/collectio...ack-handlebars MF Carbon (Francois Pervis works with them on these) https://www.instagram.com/p/C6V-ASOINJt/ https://mf-carbon-cycles.fr/ S1Neo Graal Sprint bars (I own these in 36cm, actual 34cm) https://www.s1neo.com/en/detail-prod...int-evo-/p/636 Velo Flyer- Do not buy the hellyer 2 bars, they are horribly uncomfortable. Agro Sprint are nice though! https://veloflyerbicycles.com/shop/agro-sprint-bar Alpina Enduro bars - New, no reviews that I've heard about yet, but they look interesting enough that I think they're worth keeping in mind https://www.dolan-bikes.com/alpina-e...ck-handlebars/ Aerocoach Lann bars - Friend at the track had these before he crashed, overall great quality, but the enlarged position in the drops really favors larger hands. https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/store/A...ars-p202236287 Some aliexpress copies which have turned up lately, cheap and get you a hood position. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806213584997.html |
#23
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#24
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#25
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I just want to say, I really enjoyed the velodrome. I was never a talented rider, but that didn't mean I enjoyed it less. The miss and out was always really fun for me because I kept my head while others would panic. You didn't really want to be first, you just had to not be last!
I still think tubulars are in their realm on the track. The smooth surface allows the high pressure tires to roll the best. No, you DON'T have to have them, but since you can buy used stuff, it means you don't turn them down.
__________________
Forgive me for posting dumb stuff. Chris Little Rock, AR |
#26
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I'd say focus in learning the disciplines and basics with goid quality mid range stuff and upgrade once you know what you like and don't like.
I've been riding track on and off for 20 years, never really got into racing, but like the experience of the track. |
#27
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Just a different viewpoint.
Ride and race what you have now. You need to learn what you like. Are you an endurance rider or a sprinter? You mentioned a flying 200. That's a sprint event. The equipment is somewhat different between disciplines. Once you figure out what you like, spend your money on a top level coach. They are hard to find but will make an enormous difference. Good luck and have fun. |
#28
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https://shop.visiontechusa.com/en/ty...k/metron-truck
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Marc Sasso A part of the resin revolution! |
#29
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https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/...rack-handlebar $449 isn't bad at all |
#30
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Plus, what's a million times more important (and would make a much more interesting thread) is the knowledge and experience about different types of races, knowing your opponents and how they ride, strategies for making the most of space on the track, and so on. But that stuff is a little harder to talk about on forums! |
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