Help me identify what's causing the tink

[gregj]

Is this a relatively flexy frame? Maybe the hard pedaling is flexing the frame in such a way that something you've ruled out in the work stand (fd adjustment, cables, etc.) is touching.

[NHAero]

Originally Posted by gregj

Is this a relatively flexy frame? Maybe the hard pedaling is flexing the frame in such a way that something you've ruled out in the work stand (fd adjustment, cables, etc.) is touching.

It's got something like a 45mm OD downtube, so I don't think I'm flexing it much

I did a 3/4 mile test today to see if the set-up I re-did on the R8000 FD was working right (it is) and didn't hear the tink, but it does come and go so I'll need a longer ride. It now has the new Praxis crankset and BB, and the same spider and chainrings that came off the Force 22 cranks (and the chainring bolts are indeed tight, and I used a torque wrench on the 3 bolts holding on the spider. So next ride, I'll see if it tinks or not!

[NHAero]

Test ride of 11 miles, no tink, with new Praxis cranks and BB. Very confusing to me, since the BB I had in there is an excellent product (Wheels Mfg) and everything was torqued properly and there was no play anywhere. Bearings look perfect and are smooth as can be. I'm just baffled but there you are.

[camelbackkid]

Glad you got rid of the noise!

Now put the old cranks and BB back on and it'll be still silent

[Peter P.]

Originally Posted by Peter P.

I'm currently having a similar problem which is very close to NHAero's-the "tink" is in sync with crank rotation and appears roughly when the right crankarm is in line with the front derailleur cage.

I've checked everything for clearances and there's nothing touching.

My next course of action, which perhaps NHAero can try as well, is what I tried today- I thought maybe there is something on the large ring's teeth causing the chain to hang up oh so slightly before settling into the tooth as the chainring came around to the right position.

I did find some burrs on a few teeth of the large ring (It's a virtually new TA chainring) directly behind the crankarm. I gently gave the questionable teeth a few strokes with a file. I have yet to ride the bike to see if I was successful.

Update: Filing the burrs off the chainring didn't work.
While I'm certain the FD isn't touching anything, I do run it very close to the teeth, so I elevated it to the 3mm Shimano clearance spec. No change. I figured since I'm running a 10sp FD with an 11sp crank, chain, and cassette, that I might be causing some problem.

No change.

I had already checked my cleats, chainring bolts, and tightened the cassette lockring. No change.

I checked all the screws on my pedals for loose ones (none found) and worked the tension adjustment screw after lubing. Lastly, I generously lubed all the moving parts of my pedals, except the axle bearings, with WD-40.

The pedals must have been it, because on today's ride all I heard was sweet silence. Ahhh...

[Peter P.]

Nah, the pedals weren't it. The "tick" returned.

The only piece remaining was the left crankarm. But I didn't have one to swap.

Or did I?

While chatting with a cycling buddy on the phone the other day and looking at my mountain bike, I realized the Hollowtech II Shimano SLX crank had the same spline attachment as my Shimano Ultegra crank. So I swapped crankarms and went for a ride.

THAT was it.

It appears the splined attachment is not machined into the crankarm but a sleeve presumably press-fit into the aluminum arm. I dripped some oil-based lube into the interface and let it sit for a day to flow.

That seems to have cured this elusive tick.

[Ozz]

Originally Posted by jemoryl

Leg or shoe brushing against the part of the FD cable that extends beyond the cable clamping bolt? Had this once on a Campy setup, don't know what yours looks like.

I had a clink that drove me nutz for awhile...finally figure out it was the cable end hitting the crank arm as it passed.