Campagnolo EPS V3 bluetooth issue

[Rigo2020]

I have upgraded my wife's road bike for a second hand, but just like new bike, and it came with Campagnolo EPS Super Record 11 speed. I have used Shimano my whole life on a bike, so Campagnolo is a new thing for me.

The shifters and derailleurs work fine. The issue I have is pairing the V3 unit with MyCampy app (installed on my iphone Xs).

When the "mode" button is pressed (on the shifters) I can see a green light blinking on the V3 unit, but the app does not see any bluetooth signal. Even when I go directly to the bluetooth on my phone, I'm able to see a few signals from other gadgets, but none from the V3 unit.

Have anyone experience this issue?

How do I reset the unit?

Am I missing a step or something?

Is that possible the unit is faulty when it comes to transmitting bluetooth signal?

Any help is welcome!!!

Thanks

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Rigo2020

I have upgraded my wife's road bike for a second hand, but just like new bike, and it came with Campagnolo EPS Super Record 11 speed. I have used Shimano my whole life on a bike, so Campagnolo is a new thing for me.

The shifters and derailleurs work fine. The issue I have is pairing the V3 unit with MyCampy app (installed on my iphone Xs).

When the "mode" button is pressed (on the shifters) I can see a green light blinking on the V3 unit, but the app does not see any bluetooth signal. Even when I go directly to the bluetooth on my phone, I'm able to see a few signals from other gadgets, but none from the V3 unit.

Have anyone experience this issue?

How do I reset the unit?

Am I missing a step or something?

Is that possible the unit is faulty when it comes to transmitting bluetooth signal?

Any help is welcome!!!

Thanks

I can't help you but call Jerry at Campagnolo NA and have him ask the tech guy..

760-931-0106
or
ott@campagnolona.com

or Jim at Vecchio's..he has sold and installed a LOT of EPS

303-440-3535 or
jim@vecchios.com

[gfk_velo]

Before you start to work on the EPS system, make sure that you are fully aware of and are comfortable with, the procedure for a "zero set" of the EPS.

For connection to the IF, usually problems are caused by BlueTooth's particular characteristics, combined with other environmental factors. If you have tried repeatedly to get your device to connect to the system, the procedure is this:

• Turn off any other Bluetooth (BT) devices on the bike (some BT-enabled GPS units, for instance, have a notoriously "aggressive" connection regime that try to connect with any BT receiver that they "see" and they continue trying - so blocking legitimate connection attempts. Other devices can also do this, so if you are in a Bluetooth-heavy environment, it's often worth moving out of range of other devices such as printers, laptops and heart-rate monitors, or switching them off.
• Unistall the App.
• Switch Bluetooth off on your device.
• Clear the cache on your device.
• Check that your device has "forgotten" the EPS system (under Bluetooth connections). If it hasn't, delete the old connection manually.
• Make sure that the firmware on your device is up-to-date.
• Reboot your device.
• Reinstall the App.
• Switch Bluetooth back on.
• If you can, go online and log into the App - you can use your ID at MyCampy.com if you have created one, or log in via one of the Social media channels indicated. I routinely use my Google account, for instance - but please be aware of the data-sharing implications if that is what you do. In theory the App doesn't require you to be on a WiFi or other internet connection to work - but my experience in the field seems to be that it's easier to connect if you are.
• Ensure your EPS system is switched on and has charge - we'd advise 40% or more (slow flashing green or solid green LED on battery check). The App can, in my experience, struggle with connecting to systems that are operating at the lowest level of indicated battery charge (slow flashing red LED on battery check).
• To make the system visible to the App, as shown on screen, push one of the "Mode" buttons on the EPS system - this confirms the state of the battery on the IF at the same time (that is the light that you see illuminate on the IF, colour denoting state of battery charge).
• The ID that will be requested is the one that is laser-etched into the body of the IF itself - it begins with the letters "IF-" then six digits, the last three of which should match those shown by the App.
• Ignore the letters but if the ID starts with a zero or two zeros, key those in.
• Some device keyboards have a return key, some a button that says "Done". Tap that, then "OK" in the App dialogue.
• You should then see the circular "wait" icon as a connection attempt is made.
• Depending on the device and environment and other demands on the device's memory and processor, it can take up to two minutes to connect initially. Once the device has successfully connected once and the ID is in the device cache, it's much faster, normally only a few seconds, so long as the device isn't doing a lot of work in the background.

For updates, we recommend that you update the Bluetooth module first, if indicated. That is your method of connection between system and device so it has to be in the best possible state. Then, update the Interface firmware - that is the "window" into the Power Unit so needs to be optimised for efficient connection within the system. Finally update the Power Unit.

On updating some elements of the system, you may be prompted to clear the device cache and / or switch off the EPS system, as you sometimes are when, say, installing or deleting software on a PC. Ensure that you do this, as otherwise the system can "hang".

On initial PU update, if you have v3 and it was shipped with firmware (FW) 0.19, you will be upgrading to FW 0.24. This version of the firmware is designed to give the correct default settings to the FD for the Hydralic Optimised /H11 crankset if the system detects a Hydraulic Optimised LH lever. This is required for correct function of a full HO gearing system. There are workarounds in FD set-up so that you can avoid this FW update (Campagnolo built them in so that a v2 PU and IF could be used with HO) but it is far better not to use them.

When doing the update from 0.19 to 0.24, afterwards, you will need to do a zero-set on both front and rear derailleurs as the FW update clears the EPS system's "knowledge" of the positions of the sprockets and chainrings - so you need to be completely comfortable with that procedure.

Hope that helps?

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by gfk_velo

Before you start to work on the EPS system, make sure that you are fully aware of and are comfortable with, the procedure for a "zero set" of the EPS.

For connection to the IF, usually problems are caused by BlueTooth's particular characteristics, combined with other environmental factors. If you have tried repeatedly to get your device to connect to the system, the procedure is this:

• Turn off any other Bluetooth (BT) devices on the bike (some BT-enabled GPS units, for instance, have a notoriously "aggressive" connection regime that try to connect with any BT receiver that they "see" and they continue trying - so blocking legitimate connection attempts. Other devices can also do this, so if you are in a Bluetooth-heavy environment, it's often worth moving out of range of other devices such as printers, laptops and heart-rate monitors, or switching them off.
• Unistall the App.
• Switch Bluetooth off on your device.
• Clear the cache on your device.
• Check that your device has "forgotten" the EPS system (under Bluetooth connections). If it hasn't, delete the old connection manually.
• Make sure that the firmware on your device is up-to-date.
• Reboot your device.
• Reinstall the App.
• Switch Bluetooth back on.
• If you can, go online and log into the App - you can use your ID at MyCampy.com if you have created one, or log in via one of the Social media channels indicated. I routinely use my Google account, for instance - but please be aware of the data-sharing implications if that is what you do. In theory the App doesn't require you to be on a WiFi or other internet connection to work - but my experience in the field seems to be that it's easier to connect if you are.
• Ensure your EPS system is switched on and has charge - we'd advise 40% or more (slow flashing green or solid green LED on battery check). The App can, in my experience, struggle with connecting to systems that are operating at the lowest level of indicated battery charge (slow flashing red LED on battery check).
• To make the system visible to the App, as shown on screen, push one of the "Mode" buttons on the EPS system - this confirms the state of the battery on the IF at the same time (that is the light that you see illuminate on the IF, colour denoting state of battery charge).
• The ID that will be requested is the one that is laser-etched into the body of the IF itself - it begins with the letters "IF-" then six digits, the last three of which should match those shown by the App.
• Ignore the letters but if the ID starts with a zero or two zeros, key those in.
• Some device keyboards have a return key, some a button that says "Done". Tap that, then "OK" in the App dialogue.
• You should then see the circular "wait" icon as a connection attempt is made.
• Depending on the device and environment and other demands on the device's memory and processor, it can take up to two minutes to connect initially. Once the device has successfully connected once and the ID is in the device cache, it's much faster, normally only a few seconds, so long as the device isn't doing a lot of work in the background.

For updates, we recommend that you update the Bluetooth module first, if indicated. That is your method of connection between system and device so it has to be in the best possible state. Then, update the Interface firmware - that is the "window" into the Power Unit so needs to be optimised for efficient connection within the system. Finally update the Power Unit.

On updating some elements of the system, you may be prompted to clear the device cache and / or switch off the EPS system, as you sometimes are when, say, installing or deleting software on a PC. Ensure that you do this, as otherwise the system can "hang".

On initial PU update, if you have v3 and it was shipped with firmware (FW) 0.19, you will be upgrading to FW 0.24. This version of the firmware is designed to give the correct default settings to the FD for the Hydralic Optimised /H11 crankset if the system detects a Hydraulic Optimised LH lever. This is required for correct function of a full HO gearing system. There are workarounds in FD set-up so that you can avoid this FW update (Campagnolo built them in so that a v2 PU and IF could be used with HO) but it is far better not to use them.

When doing the update from 0.19 to 0.24, afterwards, you will need to do a zero-set on both front and rear derailleurs as the FW update clears the EPS system's "knowledge" of the positions of the sprockets and chainrings - so you need to be completely comfortable with that procedure.

Hope that helps?

GREAT review, I am impressed..and more than a little 'worn out'....

Makes me want to watch this again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ktTXjSqvJc

NOT wanting to drift this thread but yeegads..are bikes really 'more better' today than in the 60s or 70s?? I guess in some ways but 700 some odd words above on how to set this up.....I AM impressed but a little dismayed too.