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Carbon fix and paint
The day before D2R2 had a chain drop on my OPEN and scratch the hell out of the pain (maybe a bit of carbon?) around the BB area. I really like this bike but it has been a terrible bike to own. Only have 1600 miles on it and it ruined my D2R2 last year, bad chain suck in the rain and just always afraid of more chain suck every time I ride it. I messaged the OPEN guys and they did say a few people with 2X have that problem, specially with ultegra groups (not surprised as its the most common 2x group on the OPEN).
I have campy Potenza on the bike, Easton Crank up front. I have tried multiple cranks, multiple cassettes, chains and eventually it does happen. They said its a problem with chainline and road group that causes it, I am not so convinced about that because I dont have that problem on my cielo which also is a simlar bike but without the drop stay. I think its the drop stay that makes this a bigger problem, chain bounces and gets in there because hey, the chain stay is super close to the chain. I guess in the end, it does not matter, I just need to get this fixed (there might not be damage to the carbon and I would ride it like this but want to get it painted because it was way too expensive and new to look like that). The OPEN guys said the new GRX is made for bikes like this and they recommend it but I am going to go with 1x. I may just get force or save up and get force axs next year. So I am now rambling and I am sorry. I would like recommendations of places to get this stuff done. I know appleman does it and totally trust him on it but he does not do paint. I know that some people here do NOT recommend Ruckus composites so I also don't want to do with them. Anyone ever heard of carbon solutions? - http://jorge-vazquez-f69t.squarespace.com/paint THey seem pretty legit. Also for people that have gotten this done, how much shouild I be looking for? Seems like repair should be in the $200-$350 area, what about touch up paint? |
#2
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For your chain suck issue, I'd suggest making something like the old ringle chain suck plate. They are just a piece of aluminum with cut outs for the chain rings and a bolt to hold it in place. Or maybe buy a ringle and mod it for road spacing.
For paint, velocolour does touch ups - starting at $250 CAD depending on how big and how difficult. They did my SV and you can't even see where the chip was. |
#3
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#4
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I will message them and see how long. I don't really need the bike for a minute so i am ok waiting. Just want to make sure they are good and people have had good experince. Its fine if they are back logged but if they tell me 2 months I want to make sure its 2 months, not 8. |
#5
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-The stock paint on the OPEN is notoriously soft. I've never heard of someone dropping a chain and coming out unscathed - there's always damage down to the primer if not to the clear coat above the bare carbon. That being said, when I did my removal project last year I was pleasantly surprised at how nice the carbon and clearcoat underneath was. The clearcoat has a nice satin finish and has an almost frosted glass texture, very hard. And the carbon layup underneath shows A LOT of precise planning and lapping. -Drew at cyclocarbon has an EXCELLENT reputation and is very reasonable. His carbon fixes are great while his painting is improving. I've heard both positive and negative on his finishes, but over the past year or so the words is he's been slowly implementing more professional techniques into his workshop for painting. -Velocolour is great, but VERY expensive. A chip repair for $250 CAD (~175 USD) plus shipping sounds about right, but the previous poster was on a steel SV vs a carbon OPEN. Totally different ball game. -As for the chainsuck I see it more as a combo of the Potenza not being optimized for rough riding and the Easton crank having a slightly suboptimal chainline for the FD to work as advertised. 2mm at the hub isn't that big a deal, but 2mm at the FD is huge. -Also, is your Potenza crank for the DB spacing or regular? See here for more details, but especially this: Quote:
-Also a clutch RD and/or narrow/wide or dropstop chainrings makes a gigantic difference in chain retention. I used regular 11s ETAP 1X for a while on my previous UP, and I always paired it with an X-Sync chainring. While the combo was louder than a clutch RD it never dropped a chain. -If you're on gravel 90% of the time it seems like you'd want a group that's optimized for rougher roads or at least has functional elements for dealing with the elements encountered. Narrow/wide chainrings, slightly wider chainline for clearance, clutch RD. Don't think Potenza has any of those, although some of it can be implemented through other means. Wolftooth roadlink and long cage Potenza RD for the range, swapping in chainrings or a crankset that can accommodate narrow wide chainrings. Honestly don't think it's as much to do with the frameset as the groupset WRT the dropped chains. But I could easily be wrong as OPEN tends to ignore their legitimate concerns until they come to a head. Last edited by yinzerniner; 08-21-2019 at 11:25 AM. |
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The chip was on my carbon seat tube. I also supplied the paint directly from SV so it saved a bit of money.
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#7
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I've contacted a few different smaller manufacturers and they've all been very accommodating WRT getting paint colors. Almost all have sent me the pantone number immediately. Seems SV went out of their way to ensure your steed is looking fresh AF. |
#8
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thanks everyone for the responses.
I will likely not go velocolour because expensive... they do great work but not necessary for this. It will be a small touch up job, should not be very hard to do. @John H. - Yeah I could see potenza being the problem. I have easton 2x rings right now but I also have had 2 other cranks there. The praxis were the worst, the FSA were the best and the eastons in the middle. I think RX derailleur may be your savior but OPEN said they have gotten complaints from people with ULTEGRA, he actually thought I was going to be on ultegra. A lot probably did not that the RX derailleur but you might have been getting lucky or some of use been getting unlucky. @yinzerniner - The OPEN guys have been great with me, always responsive and I hope this post does not come anti-OPEN because it is not. The frame is great. They said their geo is within specs even for road components, ect. I am hoping that the carbon is actually totally fine and does not need repair and it really is just a small paint job. Regardless I am going with 1X on this one. I never had 1X so this will be a good experiment and hopefully no more chain drop issues. I will look at cyclocarbon, I actually have heard good things about him/them. |
#9
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Open
Yeah- My Easton had Shimano 9000 rings. I am sure that helped.
I see that Black Magic is doing cerakote- And they do lots of Opens. I bet that would be far more durable. |
#10
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Although this is more for car paint repair, the guy who does these videos is an incredible detailer who knows his stuff. He's actually local and I've met him at CCC with his restored 964 911. Using the paint/nail polish/sanding/polishing route should work if the extent isn't too deep, and you can check the carbon integrity with the coin test beforehand just to make sure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xi3xmeO6C4 |
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I thought about DIY but too much paint missing. |
#12
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No help at all but this seems to be massively common with Open's...not sure I have seen one without chain suck
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#13
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I think 1x will limit the chain suck substantially even though i did get chain suck without even changing gears sometimes so knock on wood this will solve the problem. There are so many dropped chain bikes and I have not heard a lot of people complaining. |
#14
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I mentioned Joey Robison from Frame Doctor in Florida in the thread about repairing a carbon saddle, he does carbon repair and paint and his work in both is excellent. An added bonus is he is a really nice guy!
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#15
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Thank you. I am going to fire emails to a few people I was recommended to (including him) and see what kind of quotes come out of it.
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