What spokes & lubricant/thread prep for wheelbuild?

[proletariandan]

Guessing there are quite a few opinions out there but want to see what y'all recommend.

Leaning toward Sapim Alloy Double-Square nipples and D-Light spokes for a gravel wheel (re)build.

Have been using Spoke Prep for a long time but also see that Wheel Fanatyk has a new product on offer.

https://wheelfanatyk.com/collections...g/products/fix

Thanks!
Dan

[truth]

I find Fix to be better than spoke prep.

The building itself is easier and smoother, less tension. Spoke prep always felt like it made turning the nipples more difficult. It was cool that it came in 2 colors though.

[Gummee]

Over the years, I've tried lots of things for spoke prep. From Spoke prep to blue locktite. Last wheelsets I've built have been built with FL white grease on the threads.

Keeps things spinning when you need em to spin

I find myself liking the DT Swiss nipples the male torx fitting on the top

HTH

M

[Mark McM]

Many years ago, I used Wheelsmith Spoke Prep on all my spokes. Then I switched to using grease on the drive side spokes, and Spoke Prep on the non-drive spokes for a few years. Now I grease all the spokes. If the spoke are sufficiently tight, then they won't completely slacken in use, ans the nipples won't unscrew. If the spokes are unscrewing in use, then either the spokes weren't tight enough, or there are too few spokes for the rim and load.

[deluz]

I used to use Spoke Prep but never liked it.
Years ago I switched to Tef-Gel. It really helps to prevent corrosion.
Its a little messy to work with but cleans up with mineral spirits.

[JMT3]

I’ve used spoke prep and it works okay. In my early day and before, if my memory is correct, wheel builders would use linseed oil.

[Peter P.]

I've used general purpose grease in a 1lb. tub for decades and it works, it lasts, and it's cheap.

Like Mark said; unless the wheel is built improperly, greased threads will not unscrew with mileage.

I've also used teflon white pipe joint compound, found in the plumbing section of the hardware store. Sort of like Fluffernutter. A teensy bit messy to apply but it will definitely keep nipples from loosening while still easy to adjust.

[JAGI410]

Phil's Tenacious Oil

[cp43]

I'm far from a prolific wheel builder, but I've used grease on the ~10 wheels I've built. No issues to report.

Chris

[phoenix]

I’ve use spoke prep on many wheels, which works fine. I do prefer to use beeswax and in a pinch I have built wheels with Burt’s Bees Beeswax Lip Balm. Gotta say, the beeswax and lip balm wheels built up really nice.

[Overshot]

Originally Posted by deluz

I used to use Spoke Prep but never liked it.
Years ago I switched to Tef-Gel. It really helps to prevent corrosion.
Its a little messy to work with but cleans up with mineral spirits.

Tef-Gel works great for all kinds of anti corrosion use on bikes. Have been using it for a while

[herb5998]

Fix is a good product for prepping the threads, I also use the clear oil Wheel Fanatyk sells for nipples when doing a build. Makes for easy adjustments and no issues.

[AngryScientist]

When I first started building my own wheels 10+ years ago i bought a quart of boiled linseed oil at Home Depot.

Been using that same quart ever since. I have no idea what other uses boiled linseed oil has, so it doesn't get used anywhere else.

I am also a big fan of "locking" brass nipples. All the wheels I have built for myself have stayed true and have been very reliable. I don't know if my methods are the best, but I know they work.

[marciero]

I've used anti-seize for all but the first one or two wheels I've built. No particular reason other than I had a big jar of it and it is a somewhat grippy lube that stays in place. Its clear that all kinds of prep can work, including no prep-dry. A properly built wheel should not need thread lock type preps, nor should it ever require truing. I think that modern rims are very easy and very forgiving. This is all based on my very limited experience- I've built only about 10, all the same boring 32x 3, as well as what I've read.

[bikinchris]

I've been building wheels for 47 years now. My current procedure is to use a heavy oil on the spoke threads like Tenacious Oil or Century Lube and bathe the nipples in a lighter oil like Tri Flow until they go into the nipple shuffler. I have a small ceramic bowl found at Goodwill and a screen like the one they sell for sink drains fits exactly in it. So I can take the screen out and drop them into the nipple shuffler.
Once the wheel is true, round, centered and balanced and tight, I use DT Swiss Spoke Freeze, which is a penetrating thread locker. One drop on each nipple and it soaks into the threads.
Of course, a really well-built wheel won't go out of true, but the Spoke Freeze is extra insurance.