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  #1  
Old 12-29-2019, 10:33 PM
91Bear 91Bear is offline
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Looking at Campy

I've always had Shimano bikes, mainly because they are cheaper. However, I thinking I might like to get an Italian frame and build it up with Campy.
I have a Campy Record silver 10-speed crank. Will that work with the newer 11 or 12 speed? I assume so, right?
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  #2  
Old 12-29-2019, 10:49 PM
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Mike V Mike V is online now
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Yes it will
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  #3  
Old 12-30-2019, 07:28 AM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91Bear View Post
I've always had Shimano bikes, mainly because they are cheaper. However, I thinking I might like to get an Italian frame and build it up with Campy.
I have a Campy Record silver 10-speed crank. Will that work with the newer 11 or 12 speed? I assume so, right?
Yessir, no changes or modification needed. Match the chain to the rear cogset tho..adjust well..Campag front ders and LH shifter very forgiving..
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Old 12-30-2019, 07:36 AM
soulspinner soulspinner is offline
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Raced on Suntour Superbe. Went to Campy 8 speed on a Colnago master. When I got to 10 speed I knew what I liked. The crack of the shifts, tactile feedback I didn't feel with Shimano, the hoods, the history. Have 10 speed on one and 11 on another. Gonna get 12 speed for my carbon bike. I love the stuff cause it lasts and its been outstanding. You will never look back. Your mileage may vary...………...
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  #5  
Old 12-30-2019, 09:03 AM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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OP, you should check "sales guy" thread.
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  #6  
Old 12-30-2019, 09:06 AM
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Elefantino Elefantino is offline
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I keep thinking about getting 12-speed Chorus on my Serotta ... except it has 10-speed Record (with Centaur US ergos) that shifts better than any of my 11-speed Chorus groups.

Campy is a puzzle sometimes.

It's also the best, IMNSHO.
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Old 12-30-2019, 09:26 AM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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IME the way 11 shifts has more to do with how straight the rear of the bike is. We noticed that with 11 the rd hanger has to be perfectly aligned or the thing will start doing weird stuff... 10 speed is more flexible at that respect.

Other problem I personally got with 11 chorus 1st gen was that was noisy as hell, was never able to get it right. After years I wonder if the extra screw had something to do with it because at least with campy 10 record and chorus you play with the 3rd spring bolt and the noise goes away, which I imagine has to do with the way the RD takes the slack off the chain.

Have potenza 11 in a bike and never had a problem with that one at all.
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Old 12-30-2019, 09:39 AM
Matthew Matthew is offline
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Ultraman, you have described my Chorus 11 experience perfectly. My group just acts weird. Had my local shop check my rear hanger just this past fall to see if it was bent a bit and affecting shifting. They said it was slightly out of alignment. My shifting is a bit better but no where near as good as my 10 speed Dura Ace. The front shifting is perfect. The rear has a mind of its own. And it is noisy depending on the gear I'm in. Honestly, I expected better. Have even thought about swapping it out with Ultegra 11.
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  #9  
Old 12-30-2019, 09:49 AM
jamesdak jamesdak is offline
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Weird.....

I'm running Chorus 11 on my De Rosa and it works perfectly as well as being very quiet. Maybe it prefers being on a steel Italian bike?
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  #10  
Old 12-30-2019, 09:53 AM
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R3awak3n R3awak3n is offline
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I have had a few 11 speed campy groups, a few 10 as well. IMO 11 shifts better than the 10, not by a lot though, both are great groups.
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  #11  
Old 12-30-2019, 09:59 AM
Matthew Matthew is offline
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Well, mine is on a carbon Italian bike! Was on a 60+ mile ride with buddies summer before last and about 30 miles in my rear derailleur would not shift into the bottom 3-4 cogs. Completely out of the blue. Had to force it down by hand and then loosen the barrel adjuster as much as it would go. As if the cable all of a sudden got really tight. Made no sense as usually you snug the cable after the group is broke in. It has never done this again but just when I think I have the shifting dialed I have it act up and I'm playing with the barrel adjuster a bit to tweek it. Very frustrating to say the least.
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  #12  
Old 12-30-2019, 10:44 AM
jamesdak jamesdak is offline
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew View Post
Well, mine is on a carbon Italian bike! Was on a 60+ mile ride with buddies summer before last and about 30 miles in my rear derailleur would not shift into the bottom 3-4 cogs. Completely out of the blue. Had to force it down by hand and then loosen the barrel adjuster as much as it would go. As if the cable all of a sudden got really tight. Made no sense as usually you snug the cable after the group is broke in. It has never done this again but just when I think I have the shifting dialed I have it act up and I'm playing with the barrel adjuster a bit to tweek it. Very frustrating to say the least.
Well, that's why steel is real! Kidding of course.

I'm not sure what caused your issues. I'm running close to 50/50 between Campy and Shimano on my slew of bikes. I quite honestly never really have any issues with any of them once sorted out. Running everything from old 6 speed setups to new 11 speed. I get quite a few used bikes and even those seem fine once you sort out gunked up components, cable housings, etc. In fact most times I do have a problem it seems to be tied to something with the cables or housings, not the component itself.

The biggest problem I had was ghost shifting on one DT equipped 8 speed bike. Lots of folks said modern g springs worked in those shifters so I went that route and did not fixed the problem. Pete finally pointed out that the G springs were different for those shifters. Once I followed his guidance that problem has gone away. I think a lot of Campy "issues" are really just setup problems from folks (myself included) not knowing it properly. I'm luck that my LBS has awesome techs who have been able to setup anything I bring them.
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  #13  
Old 12-30-2019, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Other problem I personally got with 11 chorus 1st gen was that was noisy as hell, was never able to get it right.
With the 'gumby' levers and 4mm der housing with no ferrules n the lever.
-the housing ends(MUST be cleanly cut),
-the wee brass 'washer' in the lever that the housing presses against(MUST be there and flat),
-the length of housing(MUST be long enough) and whether it's routed in front or behind handlebars(behind better),
-all makes a difference.

Throw in using 5mm housing at rear der, 1.1mm inner wires, wee bit of grease on the delrin ramp in lever, light lube in housing(I use Boeshield) and very smooth and slick under BB guide(plastic/delrin, NOT metal)..

All make for the LEAST amount of drag in this 'system'...essential. It's not hard but it can be difficult.
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