Moving disc brakes between frames

[C40_guy]

I had a Litespeed Watia built up with Ekar earlier this year. Now I'm moving the group over to a Moots Routt 45...

What's the most elegant way to move the hydraulic brakes?

I'll need to disconnect the lines from the calipers as I'm changing forks and on the Watia, the rear brake line runs internally.

Is there any way to keep the oil in the lines, or should I plan to empty and replace with fresh oil?

Anything else I need to know?

For the first installation, I had a local shop do the work. This time I'd like to do it myself...

Thanks!

[Duvivr6]

You can disconnect at the shifter and reconnect in your new bike, at least in Shimano that work most of the time.
This only works if you don't have internally routed hoses.

I've become a pro from having to cut and rebleed everytime I move stuff.

[herb5998]

If the brake line is routed internally, and I'm guessing the entry/exit port is pretty tight, you'll most likely need a new olive/barb, and cut the hose at the caliper end. This may require a new hydro line altogether, based on the length you need for the new frame.

Regardless of either path, a new bleed will need to be done.

[Carbonita]

Hose cutter and press?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004076401123.html

[benb]

You can use some thing like the SRAM Reverb thread in plug to move a line without it dripping. It's main use is to connect a new line to an old line so you can replace an internally routed line with minimal fuss. But it will do perfectly well for what you're doing.

I would tend to vote for just replacing the fluid completely for this job I guess, especially if it's been sitting a while. Drain it all and make sure nothing can spill.

[CampyGrampy]

Jagwire makes a tool for internal routing that includes a hose barb for pulling brake lines. Disconnect at the caliper. But really you should use fresh lines and do a full bleed. Why? What happens when your existing brake line is too short for the new frame? You have to shorten it anyway because it will need a new olive and barb. Nothing worse than hassling with internal routing only to come up short on hose length. My recommendation: Do a fresh hose install and a full bleed for your awesome new bike. Here's the Jagwire tool https://jagwire.com/products/tools/i...l-routing-tool

[Old School]

Leave the old hose in the old frame, and run new hose in the new frame. Save yourself a lot of headaches.

[prototoast]

https://www.performancebike.com/rock...66.030/p325466

You can use this to plug a hose and stop it from leaking. Also works great if you need to replace a line with an internally routed frame. But you'll still probably have to bleed after.