“Z” couplers

[mass_biker]

Saw this as another option vs. Breakaway and S&S couplings.
Anyone with real life experience with this protocol?
Best
MB

[Hakkalugi]

I have both formats, and they work great. That said, I want Zs on every bike now. If you have a choice, go Z.

[ltwtsculler91]

I went with Z couplers on my Hampsten titanium frame, and have seen a few of the No22s with them. I wouldn't go S&S as these solve all the annoyances about those - open/close with just 1 bolt on each coupler and don't/can't loosen over time. Plus, you can't even notice them on the frame unless you're looking closely. Full thread on my bike here: Pig in a box

[mass_biker]

Oh goodness. I can barely tell they are in the frame.
I have breakaway couplers on my Ritchey Ti Cross.
I’m considering a fixed/free single speed Ti travel build (via Carver) utilizing the Z couplers for really-easy-travel-choice.
But looking at your sweet, sweet road bike it has me thinking “road bike with 32c” instead…as I think I have most of the parts banging around.
Thank you for the link. It’s getting me thinking and plotting.
Best
MB

[echappist]

Originally Posted by mass_biker

Oh goodness. I can barely tell they are in the frame.
I have breakaway couplers on my Ritchey Ti Cross.
I’m considering a fixed/free single speed Ti travel build (via Carver) utilizing the Z couplers for really-easy-travel-choice.
But looking at your sweet, sweet road bike it has me thinking “road bike with 32c” instead…as I think I have most of the parts banging around.
Thank you for the link. It’s getting me thinking and plotting.
Best
MB

With the right fork (say Whisky No. 7 Rd Plus), one can go up to 700 x 35 mm; this fork also supports fenders. 32c tires can be accomodated with a Falz fork.

Hampsten's titanium frames are welded by none other than Brad Bingham.





For further inquiries, operators are standing by. Or you could just send a PM to @hampco.

[Bob Ross]

Originally Posted by ltwtsculler91

I wouldn't go S&S as these solve all the annoyances about those - open/close with just 1 bolt on each coupler and don't/can't loosen over time.

Are you saying that S&S couplers can loosen over time?
As the owner of a bike with S&S couplers for the past 14 years, I can confirm that nothing like that has ever happened...mostly because it seems like it could happen, and so I'm paranoid and check them regularly. But in these past 14 years I have never had to (re-)tighten them.

That being said, if I were to buy another coupled bike it would probably have those Z-couplers, because A) I really like the idea of not having to carry a proprietary tool, and B) I think they look super slick.

Any idea if they weigh less than S&S couplers?

[saab2000]

Originally Posted by Bob Ross

Are you saying that S&S couplers can loosen over time?
As the owner of a bike with S&S couplers for the past 14 years, I can confirm that nothing like that has ever happened...mostly because it seems like it could happen, and so I'm paranoid and check them regularly. But in these past 14 years I have never had to (re-)tighten them.

That being said, if I were to buy another coupled bike it would probably have those Z-couplers, because A) I really like the idea of not having to carry a proprietary tool, and B) I think they look super slick.

Any idea if they weigh less than S&S couplers?

I don’t know if they loosen over time but I definitely check them when I ride that bike.

That said, I’d go with this solution if I ever got another coupled bike. The proprietary tool is kind of too much. The Z couplers are definitely more elegant.

[rapid_ti]

Interesting to see the Z-couplers on a solo bike. I previously thought that was an option only on a Santana tandem.

[mass_biker]

Great feedback folks - thank you.

Currently the thought is to get this built up with rear-facing dropouts. I don’t have a single speed/fixed gear bike in the quiver. So maybe this is a “kill two birds” play - and having traveled with derailleur-ed bikes (Ritchey, Bike Friday), while not the most cumbersome thing to do in terms of build up/break down, having one less item to fuss with sounds appealing. I suppose with only a front brake, you could not have to worry about splitters at all.

Carver (which contracts with one of the Asian Ti builders) has been helpful in looking at a target spec (for me - standard 56 geometry - modeled after one of my Ritchey RLs or an All City Mr Pink) and has offered the choice of either S&S or Z couplings. Based on all the feedback above, the Z seems to be the way to go for this project if it materializes.

I’ll keep folks posted.
MB

[echelon_john]

Do we know which builder Carver uses? Is it Waltly?

Originally Posted by mass_biker

Great feedback folks - thank you.

Currently the thought is to get this built up with rear-facing dropouts. I don’t have a single speed/fixed gear bike in the quiver. So maybe this is a “kill two birds” play - and having traveled with derailleur-ed bikes (Ritchey, Bike Friday), while not the most cumbersome thing to do in terms of build up/break down, having one less item to fuss with sounds appealing. I suppose with only a front brake, you could not have to worry about splitters at all.

Carver (which contracts with one of the Asian Ti builders) has been helpful in looking at a target spec (for me - standard 56 geometry - modeled after one of my Ritchey RLs or an All City Mr Pink) and has offered the choice of either S&S or Z couplings. Based on all the feedback above, the Z seems to be the way to go for this project if it materializes.

I’ll keep folks posted.
MB

[mass_biker]

Great question…I emailed back and forth with Walty a bit and I figured that I might save some hassle sending the specs directly to Carver and have them work with their providers. I’ll ask Carver directly.
MB

[echelon_john]

Thanks!

Originally Posted by mass_biker

Great question…I emailed back and forth with Walty a bit and I figured that I might save some hassle sending the specs directly to Carver and have them work with their providers. I’ll ask Carver directly.
MB

[AngryScientist]

Can these be added to a bike as a retrofit or new build only? Anyone know?

[Hakkalugi]

Waltly does have Z-couplers, I have a hardtail mtb frame inbound. I’m sure they are a clone and not really a Paragon coupler. Paragon makes steel and ti couplers under license from Santana, any builder can use them on a non-tandem bike. They should be retrofit-able, but obviously you’ll need to refinish/repaint the bike. I have 3 Waltly S&S frames (road, gravel, wife’s gravel) in the house and have never had one loosen, but typically after the first ride a bit of tightening is needed (maybe 1/4 turn). Walty’s lock ring that holds the coupler is steel and can rust, they’re sending me stainless replacements with this new frame.

My Slim Chance has a Z, and it’s pretty much the coolest thing since sliced bread. The frame uses a Ritchey-style seat tube coupler, those Zs are expensive and the seat tube system is rock solid. https://mamilmisings.com/a-slim-chance-at-success

[mistermo]

For the tall folks....

I've had a few Ritchey Breakaway bikes and their couplers have worked great for me with the added benefit of being stealthy (vs S&S). I ride Ritchey's size XL, with 58cm top tube. Even with a 58cm TT, I need a 140mm stem to get my bars out far enough.

The coupler placement at the intersection of the TT/ST creates a longish TT when uncoupled, and this longish, XL, 58cm TT takes the full length of the case. I'm tall and would prefer a 59+ top tube. One of the the benefits of the Z couplers is that they can be placed somewhere along the TT which shortens its packed length, thereby allowing a longer TT when considering a custom build.

Along with the other builders mentioned, I've exchanged emails with Erik at Alliance and he informs me he can build w Z couplers too.

One last pitch... When considering a fatter tired bike (vs a road bike) cantilever braked bikes are waaay better than discs when packing in a travel case. Disc rotors are a pain to remove, are easily bent, and most require hydraulic fluid which doesn't work well with air pressure changes, inevitable when traveling by airplane. With a SRAM wireless shifting setup and canti brakes, there's only one cable to disconnect (rear brake). Easy peasy.