Play in Bora Ultra rear hub- help please

[tbike4]

This is a Bora Ultra rim brake wheel from what year I do not know. It has some minimal side to side play. I looked at the hub and it is a foreign object to me. I have adjusted my share of non Campaq hubs over the years. Eazy peezy.

I did not find the help I need in a Google search. Do I need to remove the cassette? I think I would.
Photo below.

[Philster]

Have you seen these diagrams of Campi hubs?

https://support.campagnolo.com/media...rt_C_Rev00.pdf

[Mark McM]

If you think other hubs are easy, then you should be able to do the Campy hubs in your sleep. Not only do you not have to remove the cassette, you don't even have to remove the wheel from the frame (in fact, it is better to adjust the bearings with the wheel in the frame and QR tightened).

On the left side of each wheel (front and rear) you'll find what looks like a split collar tightened by a screw. That split collar is the threaded bearing pre-load adjuster. Loosen the screw on the collar, then rotate the collar CW to the tighten the bearings or CCW to loosen the bearings. Tighten the bearings just enough to remove play. Then tighten the collar screw to lock the collar in place. It should just take a couple of minutes to adjust each hub.

[tbike4]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

If you think other hubs are easy, then you should be able to do the Campy hubs in your sleep. Not only do you not have to remove the cassette, you don't even have to remove the wheel from the frame (in fact, it is better to adjust the bearings with the wheel in the frame and QR tightened).

On the left side of each wheel (front and rear) you'll find what looks like a split collar tightened by a screw. That split collar is the threaded bearing pre-load adjuster. Loosen the screw on the collar, then rotate the collar CW to the tighten the bearings or CCW to loosen the bearings. Tighten the bearings just enough to remove play. Then tighten the collar screw to lock the collar in place. It should just take a couple of minutes to adjust each hub.

Thank you. That does sound like it could be done while sleeping.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

If you think other hubs are easy, then you should be able to do the Campy hubs in your sleep. Not only do you not have to remove the cassette, you don't even have to remove the wheel from the frame (in fact, it is better to adjust the bearings with the wheel in the frame and QR tightened).

On the left side of each wheel (front and rear) you'll find what looks like a split collar tightened by a screw. That split collar is the threaded bearing pre-load adjuster. Loosen the screw on the collar, then rotate the collar CW to the tighten the bearings or CCW to loosen the bearings. Tighten the bearings just enough to remove play. Then tighten the collar screw to lock the collar in place. It should just take a couple of minutes to adjust each hub.

2mm allen wrench...

[tbike4]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

2mm allen wrench...

Good to know. I have a couple of the 2mm allens which feel like they might break if you twisted it too hard. If you wanted to adjust the hub on the bike it looks like maybe this Park tool in the photo would be nice to have.

Opinion?

2 mm Sliding T-Handle Hex Wrench> https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...x-wrench-thh-2

I will ask Santa for this> https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...nch-set-ph-1-2

[AngryScientist]

If you dont already have them, ask Santa for a set of these. Best hex keys on the market and every bike tinkerer should have a set.

[tbike4]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

If you dont already have them, ask Santa for a set of these. Best hex keys on the market and every bike tinkerer should have a set.

I have requested from Santa. I love good tools.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by tbike4

Good to know. I have a couple of the 2mm allens which feel like they might break if you twisted it too hard. If you wanted to adjust the hub on the bike it looks like maybe this Park tool in the photo would be nice to have.

Opinion?

2 mm Sliding T-Handle Hex Wrench> https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...x-wrench-thh-2

I will ask Santa for this> https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...nch-set-ph-1-2

You don't need to Gorilla this wee set screw down. NO need for a T-handle Allen for these. If you kill a 2mm Allen tightening this wee bolt, it's too tight..

[tbike4]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

You don't need to Gorilla this wee set screw down. NO need for a T-handle Allen for these. If you kill a 2mm Allen tightening this wee bolt, it's too tight..

Thanks for info. I do have a ?? On the other side of the hub there is a nut that screws on reverse thread. I made it finger tight as it appears you would need the the correct size skinny cone wrench to go tighter. Am I correct?

I did remove the play in the hub and rode it a couple of miles.

I bought the sliding T handle Allen anyway to have it in the arsenal. It looks nice.

[herb5998]

If the 17mm nut on the drive side is loose, it just has to be snugged up, do NOT apply too much force as you'll compress the freehub bearings (instructions call for 15Nm). Use a 5mm in the axle to hold it in place while you tighten the LH threaded nut.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by tbike4

Thanks for info. I do have a ?? On the other side of the hub there is a nut that screws on reverse thread. I made it finger tight as it appears you would need the the correct size skinny cone wrench to go tighter. Am I correct?

I did remove the play in the hub and rode it a couple of miles.

I bought the sliding T handle Allen anyway to have it in the arsenal. It looks nice.

That 17mm nut(left threaded, lefty tighty) needs to be more than finger tight. No cone wrench, a 5mm Allen on the axle end holding the hub, then 17mm open end to tighten. Pretty tight, not tiger tight..you won't compress the bearings ion the FHB...

[tbike4]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

That 17mm nut(left threaded, lefty tighty) needs to be more than finger tight. No cone wrench, a 5mm Allen on the axle end holding the hub, then 17mm open end to tighten. Pretty tight, not tiger tight..you won't compress the bearings ion the FHB...

That means the nut was not tight enough when I began this procedure.
I will need to look again but to get a 17mm open end on the nut I am thinking the cassette probably needs to come off. No big deal. I can clean it.
Thanks.

[herb5998]

you do NOT need to remove the freehub body to tighten the 17mm, in fact, you won't be able to get the body on if you tighten it with it not installed.


Review the photo I posted, shows exact steps for tightening the 17mm nut.

You can find the complete file (for all hub service) here (Pages 3/4 apply to your wheel):

https://www.campagnolo.com/on/demand..._05_22_ENG.pdf

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by herb5998

you do NOT need to remove the freehub body to tighten the 17mm, in fact, you won't be able to get the body on if you tighten it with it not installed.


Review the photo I posted, shows exact steps for tightening the 17mm nut.

You can find the complete file (for all hub service) here (Pages 3/4 apply to your wheel):

https://www.campagnolo.com/on/demand..._05_22_ENG.pdf

I am thinking the cassette probably needs to come off

Cassette..and yes, need to remove cassette to tighten that 17mm nut...