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Tree-climbing gear for my gravel bike?
On my Lynskey Pro GR I’m currently running a Shimano GRX 31-48 crank on the front with the rest of the group eight-year old Ultegra 6800 11-speed with 11-36 on the back. I’m a spinner, and this 31-36 combo is just not low enough for me.
The Ultegra needs to be replaced anyway, as it's eight years old and has seen a lot of miles, plus my left brake lever (hydraulic) is not working really well any more. I want new stuff. I’m planning to replace the rest of the Ultegra with mechanical GRX and keep the current crankset, if possible, given that I just bought it a few months ago. But the lowest I can get with the two ring GRX group is that same 31-36 combo. Is anyone here running a mullet setup with a bigger cog in the back for lower gearing? If so, what parts are you using and how reliably does this setup work? I’d like to run at least a 42 cog in the back and possibly higher. Also, I know a one ring setup would let me run a 40 front and something ridiculously big in the back for lower gearing. But what are the disadvantages–if any–of only having 11 active gears instead of the 22 with the two-ring setup? Too big a jump between gears? If you ride this setup has that been a problem for you? Any comments/advice appreciated! I don’t want to get this all bought and built up and find it doesn’t do what I need/want. BBD
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--- __0 __0 __0 ----_-\<,_ -\<, _(_)(_)/_(_)/ (_) A thing of beauty is a joy forever--Keats |
#2
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As far as I know, the furthest that you can stretch this is with a Wolf Tooth RoadLink, but that won't get you farther than an 11-40 cassette in 11 speed. Lowest ratio with your small ring would be 31/40 = 0.775. This is pretty low!
I've been in your shoes, and I switched to 1x12 systems, which provide access to 10-50, 10-51, and 10-52 cassettes depending on whether you are using GRX or SRAM flavors. This will give you the stump-pulling gear that you're after without sacrificing too much top end and with reasonable ratio gaps. Chainring choice of course terrain and geography-dependent. A 40 tooth chainring on a 10-51 gives you a low gear of 0.78, very similar to the 31/40 possible with a RoadLink on your current setup. Going to a 38T chainring gets you to 0.74, which is lower. Caveat that I do not ride in big packs anymore, nor do mind the gearing gaps while riding solo - if either of these two things are important to your riding, 1x may or may not be for you. Otherwise, that's my recommended route. Last edited by EB; Yesterday at 05:35 PM. |
#3
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What 11 speed 11-36 cassette do you use? |
#4
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It's a SRAM . . .
Not sure what exact part number.
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--- __0 __0 __0 ----_-\<,_ -\<, _(_)(_)/_(_)/ (_) A thing of beauty is a joy forever--Keats |
#5
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It can be done
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I have the same consideration and was able to accomplish the objective using a roadlink, proper chain length and with a bit of fine-tuning and patience to get the shifting performance to acceptable range. I have the following in my current lineup of bikes: Bike #1 that serves dual duty both as gravel and road GRX Di2 11 speed 2x front 52/36 rear 11-42 Bike #2 also serves dual duty both as gravel and road Ultegra Di2 11 speed 2x front 50/34 rear 11-42 Bike #3 Pure gravel bike with monster tires GRX Di2 11 speed 1x front 38 rear 11-50
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🏻* Last edited by weisan; Yesterday at 07:41 PM. |
#6
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Just buying an 11-40 cassette and keeping your 48-31 crank is the easiest option here |
#7
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Nothing to offer on the specific components you've got, but on what follows, I do.
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And remember that your 2x system doesn't really have 22 unique gears, there's plenty of overlap. I still much prefer 2x for the road but I'm finding this 1x setup works very well for mixed surface (and even for pure pavement). |
#8
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The white industries cranks have jumps as high as 20 teeth from the small to large. I replaced a 50/34 with a 46/30. I also have a set of cranks that are 44/24 - those are going on a bikepacking bike, so can't comment on the shifting, but can't imagine that WI would sell a terrible shifting crankset.
Something like this might work well...they offer chainrings in 2 teeth increments so you can customize. More expensive up front, but might be a better solution for lower gearing than going bigger cassette jumps. |
#9
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Curious if the 30/46 from a FRX610 would fit your crankset....
SPP |
#10
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Scratch all of that. Get a Road Link and put a cassette with a 42 tooth low gear and be done with it.
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Forgive me for posting dumb stuff. Chris Little Rock, AR |
#11
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Get a motor, maybe it's time?
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#12
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I have never been able to enjoy gearing lower than 1-1. I had a 30 ring and 32 cog but I couldn't spin fast enough in that gear ride fast enough up a steep hill as fast as I could walk the bike up that hill.
I'm curious about chain wear when using a 9 tooth cog because that seems to me to require severe flexing of the chain. I suppose the cog would also wear faster but I think most riders wear out chains much faster than cogs. |
#13
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My newest garvel bike has 1x12 GRX 820 (40T / 10-51) and I haven’t found a situation it wasn’t geared for. It will climb anything and the 10T cog gives me plenty of road speed. Highly recommend
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mike | bad at bikes |
#14
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Sounds like a solution.
That Road Link is a Wolf Tooth product? Keeping the 31-48 crank ans just being able to go down to 42 sounds ideal. What's the cassette? SRAM? Shimano?
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--- __0 __0 __0 ----_-\<,_ -\<, _(_)(_)/_(_)/ (_) A thing of beauty is a joy forever--Keats |
#15
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Both SRAM and Shimano make 11-42 11-spd cassettes for mountain bike applications. You will need to adjust the spacer on your freehub to fit the MTB cassette on a road freehub properly. Something like the Shimano SLX CS-M7000 should shift nicely and doesn't cost an arm and a leg in case the experiment doesn't work out.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-SLX-CS-M7000-Cassette |
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