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  #1  
Old Yesterday, 05:51 PM
robertbb robertbb is offline
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Deciding between two DT swiss aluminium rims

Analysis paralysis, help needed.

I've got some DT 350 Centrelock hubs (28h/28h) and looking for a tubeless DT rim to use with them.

(Yes I know there's Easton, and Hed, and Kinlin, and, and, and... so please don't go there. I am looking at DT swiss rims because I can get them far more easily).

My riding is 65% paved tarmac, 35% smooth champagne gravel (think rail trails) and the very occasional rougher gravel section.

I weigh 70kg, the bike would vary between 8-11kg depending on load carried.

DT RR421: Assymetric. 20mm internal. 24mm external. 21mm height.
DT RR481: Symmetric. 22mm internal. 26mm external. 25mm height.

Smallest tyre I will run will be a 30mm. Largest will be a 35-38mm. Though there mayyyy be a chance I will ride a 40-42 in the future (currently no bike in my stable with clearance for that).

Which rim and why? Granted the RR481 has slightly more modern dimensions but would the RR421 build into a better wheel considering the asymmetric profile?

Bonus question: DT aerolites x28. Sufficient? I went with the extra 4 holes per hub after reading something from November Dave (and others similar) basically saying never rely on spoke gauge to do what spoke count should be doing. I think for my weight and riding style, something like an Aero Comp would be overkill but open to suggestions (e.g. Aero Comp rear drive side? Does this depend on which rim I choose?)

Thanks!

Last edited by robertbb; Yesterday at 08:03 PM.
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  #2  
Old Yesterday, 06:05 PM
Peter P. Peter P. is offline
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Asymmetric rims for the win!

I have built many with O/C rear rims; they last longer and flex less laterally.

I'd also stick to round spokes and brass nipples.

Aero spokes reduce that lateral stiffness and any gains are marginal.

Brass nipples because they won't gall or crack like aluminum nipples.
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  #3  
Old Yesterday, 07:18 PM
robertbb robertbb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter P. View Post
Asymmetric rims for the win!

I have built many with O/C rear rims; they last longer and flex less laterally.

I'd also stick to round spokes and brass nipples.

Aero spokes reduce that lateral stiffness and any gains are marginal.

Brass nipples because they won't gall or crack like aluminum nipples.
It'd be a no-brainer if I could get the asymmetric rim with the RR481 dimensions. I'm just concerned that a 20mm inner width (nor a 22mm outer width) wide enough for where bikes and tyres are going...
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  #4  
Old Yesterday, 07:55 PM
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Xrslug Xrslug is offline
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Given your use case, I’d go with the wider internal width rims. But I would also ping member Peter Chisholm (OldPotatoe) for his advice as I know he builds with DT rims (I am a happy customer):
https://forums.thepaceline.net/member.php?u=28701
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  #5  
Old Yesterday, 10:49 PM
coffeecherrypie coffeecherrypie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertbb View Post
It'd be a no-brainer if I could get the asymmetric rim with the RR481 dimensions. I'm just concerned that a 20mm inner width (nor a 22mm outer width) wide enough for where bikes and tyres are going...
Just a data point for you, on my gravel bike I run 38 mm tires on A23s which have an internal rim width of 18mm and it’s fine
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  #6  
Old Yesterday, 11:15 PM
Wunder Wunder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coffeecherrypie View Post
Just a data point for you, on my gravel bike I run 38 mm tires on A23s which have an internal rim width of 18mm and it’s fine
20mm internal also isn’t exactly narrow. It’s not crazy wide but for rim brake alloy it’s about as wide as it ever got (HED+ are 21), yes I know discs can go wider. 20 or even 18 can certainly support a 30-40mm tire well.

On the asymmetric bit I have more experience with rim but I thought their value was reduced with disc brakes. A disc rear has much less difference between the two flange widths as you now have a rotor on the NDS. I thought for disc wheels you actually are more likely to use an assym up front and use a symmetric rear (the opposite of how they were used for rim brake wheels).

What are the rim weights?
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  #7  
Old Today, 02:45 AM
robertbb robertbb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coffeecherrypie View Post
Just a data point for you, on my gravel bike I run 38 mm tires on A23s which have an internal rim width of 18mm and it’s fine
Do you find that they bulb too much? I know it'll work but I guess tyres perform best when the shape is correct for the tread. I don't care about aero.
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  #8  
Old Today, 04:01 AM
macaroon macaroon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertbb View Post
It'd be a no-brainer if I could get the asymmetric rim with the RR481 dimensions. I'm just concerned that a 20mm inner width (nor a 22mm outer width) wide enough for where bikes and tyres are going...
I used to use Mavic XM719 rims (19mm internal width) with 2.3 and 2.5 inch tyres, for downhill mountain biking. I don't understand the anxieties road/gravel riders seem to have when it comes to a couple of mm between rim widths.
FYI, I use a set of wheels with the RR421 rims and they've been bulletproof.
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  #9  
Old Today, 04:44 AM
Peter P. Peter P. is offline
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According to my Sutherland's Manual,

"Wired-on tires with an ISO section width of between 1.45 and 2 times the rim width (measured in millimeters between the inside of the flanges) should fit well. Hooked edge rims hold tires with a section width of up to 2.25 times the rim width. In practice, and in the quest for lighter weight, many companies have mounted fat (MTB) tires on narrow rims. ISO has not updated it's standardss during this time, but real-experience has shown that for MTBs, 3.0 times rim width works. 3.25 or 3.5 times are possible, but most companies back off from such extremes, and we would not recommend them."
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