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  #16  
Old Yesterday, 07:06 PM
bigbill bigbill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C40_guy View Post
After adding the sealant, I gave each wheel a pretty vigorous couple of spins. Noted that it might take more than that...

Nicely, these tires seat really nicely and are probably easy to remove...



No tape needed on these wheels.



Hmmm. Rear wheel holding air fine with no tape.



I suspect the valve core on the front wheel...it's just slightly bent. I'm going to swap out valve cores. If that doesn't solve the problem, I'll do the bubble test.



If *that* doesn't show anything useful, I'll add tape.
The only thing I'll add about setting up tubeless, I use soapy water to seat the tire. I let it sit for a while inflated and the bead will typically bubble. I deflate, remove the core, and add sealant. After I reinflate the tire, I spin it, bounce it like a basketball, and hold it sideways while shaking it. I'll put more soapy water on the bead and watch for bubbles. Then I ride it. I had a WTB Riddler that leaked through the sidewall once, that was tough to diagnose until enough sealant oozed out to notice.
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  #17  
Old Yesterday, 07:07 PM
caneye caneye is offline
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OP - did you get to the bottom of this?

You didn't mention the sealant brand.

i had a similar issue with a pair of Panaracer Agilest tubeless-ready tyres + Joe's sealant. Came to a point where I would lose 20psi within one day. No sealant leaks anywhere though.
I slowly dunked the wheel in a basin of water and could see bubbles seaping out from the tyre wall as if it was porous.
Topped up the sealant but it did not make any difference.

I couldn't be bothered trouble-shooting further (life got in the way).
Switched over to GP5K STR + Orange sealant and it's been running flawlessly.
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  #18  
Old Yesterday, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caneye View Post
OP - did you get to the bottom of this?

You didn't mention the sealant brand.
Haven't had a chance to play with it yet, will spend some time on Friday. First step is to replace the valve core. Then see if it holds air, and do the bubble test.

If still no, I'll remove the tire and start over, after inspecting wheel and tire.

I've been using Orange sealant for about a year.

One interesting twist...when I first added sealant I was at the end of a 16 oz bottle of sealant. I mostly got foam rather than liquid. Tire went flat (d'oh!). I added another 2 oz from a fresh bottle...and used the same on the rear tire, which has held air properly.
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  #19  
Old Today, 11:49 AM
FriarQuade FriarQuade is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C40_guy View Post
After adding the sealant, I gave each wheel a pretty vigorous couple of spins. Noted that it might take more than that...

Nicely, these tires seat really nicely and are probably easy to remove...

This depends on the tire, but some tires need to flex and let sealant into the casing, which no amount of spinning will accomplish.
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  #20  
Old Today, 11:53 AM
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By the way: I think 2oz of sealant is not enough for a 45mm tire.
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  #21  
Old Today, 01:50 PM
StressStrain StressStrain is offline
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Dunk in water, as others said. Watch for bubbles. It's easy!
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  #22  
Old Today, 02:14 PM
prototoast prototoast is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StressStrain View Post
Dunk in water, as others said. Watch for bubbles. It's easy!
And then what do you recommend?
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  #23  
Old Today, 02:17 PM
Blown Reek Blown Reek is online now
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Originally Posted by prototoast View Post
And then what do you recommend?
Once you find the bubbles, you can solve the problem. Fixed!
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  #24  
Old Today, 02:19 PM
Spdntrxi Spdntrxi is offline
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anytime this has happened to me it is ALWAYS not enough sealent.
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  #25  
Old Today, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryScientist View Post
By the way: I think 2oz of sealant is not enough for a 45mm tire.
I suspect you're right!
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Last edited by C40_guy; Today at 04:41 PM.
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  #26  
Old Today, 04:36 PM
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submersing a rim in a tub of water is actually a terrible idea; don't do that.

You'll wind up with water in the rim cavity that will be hard to get out, plus if the rim requires tape, you'll be wetting the back side of the tape which will compromise the adhesive integrity, worsening the problem.

The OP almost certainly just needs some more sealant and to get it properly distributed to solve the problem.
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  #27  
Old Today, 04:38 PM
EB EB is offline
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Still curious which Reynolds wheel this is that doesn't need rim tape.
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  #28  
Old Today, 04:53 PM
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Sometimes this forum needs a quick reading comprehension check before logging in
Comprehension isn't the issue, it's doing the actual reading.
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  #29  
Old Today, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EB View Post
Still curious which Reynolds wheel this is that doesn't need rim tape.
Oops, sorry, you're correct. I did not install tape as...

"Included with the G650 are pre-installed tubeless rim tape and tubeless valve stems, making them ready for a quick and easy tubeless setup"
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  #30  
Old Today, 05:01 PM
EB EB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C40_guy View Post
Oops, sorry, you're correct. I did not install tape as...

"Included with the G650 are pre-installed tubeless rim tape and tubeless valve stems, making them ready for a quick and easy tubeless setup"
Okay, that's what I thought - this whole thread suddenly makes more sense to me.

So going back to your original problem, it's possible that the Reynolds-supplied tape was just poorly applied on the wheel that won't hold air. 9 out of 10 tubeless issues in my experience are bad tape jobs, or tape that was too narrow for your rim ID. So pulling off the tape and replacing it with your own tape, particularly with the right width, may fix your problem.
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