#31
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So who knows, maybe in 10 years the wheels, frames and other tech will shift what those tradeoffs are... PR at nearly 30mph shows there's already a hell of a lot gained with the new stuff. |
#32
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*Maybe I should have some doubt- I've never attacked out of a group going 28mph on cobbles and have no idea what that feels like. Last edited by Jaybee; 11-15-2024 at 01:43 PM. |
#33
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#34
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My main point is that is essentially that Paris-Roubaix is a well-understood and extensively researched and tested event on a defined course. There has been little to stop teams from choosing 700x35s for it for several seasons now, and the reason they’re not, at least to date, isn’t because they haven’t tested for it, much less didn’t think of the idea. |
#35
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Fit is fit. Ebike makes no difference. My bike fits the same as previous bikes.
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#36
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I wonder if Wout wished he'd had some 35's last year. |
#37
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I've gone the route of using 650b wheels with what to me are fattish tires (38 on the front, 42 on the back--the limits of the frame/form) on my endurance road to ride some gravel roads. Those roads have been fairly smooth. I've also done one gravel race on another endurance bike (my Synapse) fitted with 34 mm cross tires. So my experience is very limited. The race on my Cannondale did feel VERY sketchy on some quite rocky gravel, and I wouldn't want to do that again. The fatter tires on my Pursuit with 650b wheels feels pretty good on most of the gravel roads I would prefer to ride. And those wider tires make the bike feel more stable than the regular 30mm tires I have on the 700 wheels. But I have to keep those wider tires at about 30psi or more, or I get oversteer (is that the same as wheel flop?), which I find quite disconcerting. All of which is to say that like Angry Scientist, I feel quite at sea in thinking about what kind of gravel bike geometry I should be looking for. I feel pretty confident that I want a bike with similar fit, which because I'm long-legged, means higher stack and shorter reach than most standard endurance or gravel geometry. |
#38
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I agree with benb about fit vs geo
Regarding fit- My contact points on various bikes are similar but I tried to optimize my gravel bike-which has become my "all road" bike- for climbing. So I have my saddle a bit more forward and less tilted back, which can put more weight on my hands, but has been okay. Also it is better for higher intensity riding. By contrast what used to be my main road bike- a "rando" bike is optimized for much longer rides at lower intensity. Regarding geo- I have to be honest and say I've been pretty okay with whatever the bike I'm riding has. My rando bike has low trail and front rack mounted bar bag for which the front end geo is said to be optimized, but I often have heavy bar bags or panniers on the front of other bikes with high trail, including tandem, and it is fine. I have no trouble steering them even at low speeds. My gravel bike has a slightly shallower HTA t which I can feel, and am curious and wish I could A/B, but I quickly acclimate to whatever bike I am riding and its fine. I also dont see a compelling reason why gravel geo should differ significantly from road. To me, a gravel bike is a road bike. I also dont consider stack to be a geo element per se, in the sense it doesnt directly impact handling. Even reach. It affects front center but we typically talk about reach as a fit consideration, with effective reach adjustable with stem length and bar reach. To me geo is about HTA, trail, front center, chain stay length, bb drop... Last edited by marciero; Today at 05:23 AM. |
#39
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For saddle position no, but bars/reach can and should move a bit between the different intended uses.
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#40
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Almost all my rides thst are 'gravel rides' are 30-40% paved roads and 60-70% gravel roads. I just need a road bike that can handle a wider tire for comfort and confidence. My gravel bike has almost the exact trail number as my main road bike, same chainstay length, and almody exact HTA and STA. ^ with that said, my gravel bike does have the bars set like 10mm higher and thats just how I naturally set it thru a few short rides. |
#41
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In my case I actually moved both saddle and bars forward. On very steep terrain I sometimes tend to slide back on the saddle. Thats where the saddle tilt comes in.
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