A few thoughts
-This horse is definitely beaten to a bloody pulp, but I'm also still eschewing the sewing machine and pining for high quality manual darning instruments
-RoadBoost axle spacing; without a doubt, going to happen. Can't fit more gears without widening it. We accepted 135/142mmTA, so we'll accept the next thing
-Everything that is new is related to disc brakes, or as a result of it.
*discs work better with thru bolts
* frames/wheels have to be stouter and resist more forces
* Aerodynamics has to be enhanced to offset the drag of the rotors (hidden cables won't do it, but it's a psychological win for people anyway)
*Wider and wider tires (larger contact patch for which to send braking power to road surface, as well as improve ride from aforementioned stouter frame/wheels)
Heard someone say that disc brake wheels can be made lighter because of the rim. Well, it hasn't happened yet. Because braking forces are resisted by an imbalance of spokes, the rotor side MUST be built up to provide durability and predictable braking. Maybe there are some sub-1200g disc wheels out there, but I would be wary of trying them, even with my puny bodyweight. I'm sorry, but whoever said this has not likely serviced hundreds of wheels, and felt the weight differences, and noticed the tension requirements across the board. The marketing "line" is that you can make them lighter. More true in theory than in practice.
As someone said, the paradigm shift is rather complete.
The point of this video, for those who want the crib notes,
IS , get this:
Ride what is right for your individual needs 
Rainy climate/ heavier rider/ more demanding mountain descents/weak hand grip/etc= discs are great
Light rider/fair-weather rider/rolling terrain/home mechanic/etc= rim brake might be the choice