My mother used to live in Baltimore for a few years, my initial impression was also like yours that it wasn't bike friendly, but after a few phone calls I ended up going on a group ride with a few guys from Joe's Bike shop (mentioned above) and I couldn't believe how good the riding was if you just know where to look.
It helped that my mom lived only about 10 minutes from there.
I also ended up doing a group MTB ride out at Patapsco state park and the trails were super fun, so there is that as well.
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