Shimano freehub regrease?
 

Bought a wheelset with a 105 rearhub - it sounds a bit creaky in the freehub. Is it possible to regrease or is it just to buy a new freehub?

I'd try to regrease first.

My technique is pull the freehub, pry off the rear seal, hose with brakleen, followed by compressor, then Dumonde liquid grease. But Shimano freehubs are pretty cheap, so replacement is not super painful as long as you can identify which one.

Freehubs are not expensive until you get to Dura Ace. You might also be able to use an Ultegra for the better quality seals and cups. But that would take a really well stocked shop to accomplish that. Succeeding in flushing out a freehub is a 50/50 kind of thing. But it might be worth a try.

If it's got significant free-play in addition to creakiness, I would argue for making a tool to remove the locking cone, adding the aforementioned DuMonde Liquid Grease or other semi-liquid lube, then perhaps sanding down the nose of the bearing cone to allow tighter bearing adjustment.

The cone is built into the back side of the threaded bearing cup, which is removed with a tool made from a 13/16" socket or simply purchased from a tool vendor.
Note that removing too much metal from the cone (on a sanding block) is irreversible and will result in a tight-turning freehub body. I've been careful and lucky enough to have not had that happen on any of the dozen or two freehubs thus serviced (often lower-tier Fulcrum wheels, same tool as for Shimano).
EDIT: Note that the bearing cup/cone piece is REVERSE-THREADED and that the freehub body need not be removed from the wheel, just secure the cup/cone threads with a little Loctite and also check the hollow bolt for tightness while the axle is out (hollow bolt is right-hand threaded).
Also be careful not to knock any bearing balls down into the ratchet crevices, something that I once managed to do.
https://live.staticflickr.com/1935/4...8e8d5998_c.jpg

Phil Wood Tenacious Oil. Not quite as thick as a teenager's head, but close.

Do not grease a freehub. It will not ratchet freely, and be especially noticeable in cold weather.

Correct. A lot(all?) are still only 2 pawls and ya stick one down, you very well may break the other. As mentioned, take the FHB off the hub, pry the back seal off, flush, dry then OIL, Never grease. I use automotive synthetic oil.

You can use the proper tool to take the FHB apart and start sanding the cone, type stuff but if the above doesn't work, just buy a new FHB..seal off and oil in there before installation...Seems Shimano is trying to save $ by not using any oils(or grease) in a lot of their stuff.

Depends on the make/model. DTSwiss ratcheting free hubs do in fact call for grease (though it is super lightweight - you don't want to use generic bearing grease).

What about this original Shimano stuff?

https://r2-bike.com/SHIMANO-Freehub-Grease-50g

I'm about to do this job on a set of C32 carbon wheels that I suspect a freehub creak. Just have to get the 15mm Allen and choose a lubricant.

Any more comments on what to use? Is the Shimano stuff in the above post pourable for use by simply removing the back seal?

I'll restate my love for Dumonde liquid grease. They also make a freehub-specific lube but I use the grease because I have it. It's amazing - just the right combo of sticky and slippery.

They have quite a few different versions, some of them quite expensive. Can you be more specific which one for a non-invasive freehub lube?


https://www.evo.com/lube/dumonde-tec...freehub-grease

https://www.evo.com/lube/dumonde-tech-liquid-grease

Thanks!

The second is what I use, in the squeezy bottle. I think the tub o' grease is for freehubs you can pull apart, like DT or CK.

I use the first, seems to work fine for DTS ratchet and regular 3-pawl designs.