Campy Veloce crank install -- does this look right?
 

For Eroica, I'm temporarily swapping out my Nuovo Record BB & crankset for a compact (Veloce) on my Gios.

After one misfire I have the right BB, a Centaur square taper 111mm.
I am using the crank bolts from my NR crankset and just put it all together.
While the drive side looks right, there's a sizable gap between the NDS crank arm and the BB (I'd estimate 5mm). I assume that the NDS crankarm should be close to flush against the BB. Pictures of both sides below.

If that gap is not right, what might be the cause?
NDS BB cup not adequately torqued? (Spec says 70nm, I don't have fitting for my torque wrench but I went pretty hard on it.)
Need different crank bolts? Or just need to tighten further?
Other?
Thanks

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7840/...9975a8da_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7915/...d742d6df_b.jpg

On a Campy 111 square taper.....you kinda know when it won't go on any further. You get to a point, and bolt won't turn anymore. As I recall, around 30 ft lbs. Looks about right to me for Veloce.

Hard to tell with the pics...but I think it’s ok. The crank bolt shouldn’t make a difference as long as they fit through the crank arm.
Ride it for a bit and see how it feels.
Maybe Old Potato can give an opinion.

You doing California Eroica??




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Thanks. Just eyeballing it the chain line looks about right too.

Yep, California Eroica — doing it with my brother who's undergoing a similar update to his 1972 Masi. mhespenheide has even offered to lend me his Brooklyn replica jersey so I can impersonate Roger de Vlaeminck

Are you using a washer under the NR crank bolt?

Very cool...I’m debating with myself about buying a mint condition vintage bike or not right now. I know I won’t really ride it, but I would like to go to Eroica California within the next year or two...so I might get it.
Looks like a good time.




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Yes


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Looks fine to me. I think that’s a pretty bike but can’t tell without a good pic, hint, hint.

Gios Torino :-)

Looks good to me. Hopefully DRY spindle with grease on bolt threads and around crank bolt washers...30 ft lbs of torque. The 2 cups are a little different.

Are the ends of the crank arms the same distance from the center line of the bike? That's your test. If there's a thumb width to the chainstay on one side and a pinky on the other it isn't right. Or you can actually measure to the down tube or seat tube you'll have an answer. IINM, that is the correct spindle for that crank.

If you're not using a torque wrench, 30 ft-lbs is what (by wrench feel) I would call "a lot" (suitable for DRY assembly per Old Potatoe).

Probably a lot of arms get secured at home "by feel" to about 15-20 ft-lbs, though perhaps WITH grease(?).
The bolts are "high strength".

You can remove the bolt and washer after torquing, then inspect how far that the end of the spindle is from the washer surface. Something like 1-3mm would suggest proper installation (then re-install the bolt).

I have a habit of measuring how far that the inside of each pedal-end of the arms sits out from the rear rim. I take a ~2" strip of cardboard and use it as a comparative measuring device.
I love the way that Cervelo's BB-Right bottom bracket improves (reduces) the chainline dimension and puts the left pedal at least as far out as the right pedal (especially with today's wider cranksets designed with 135mm rear spacing in mind!).

And the lad wins a cigar…https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=196689

Well, one out of three isn't too bad…
Grease on bolt threads, check, but not around washers (does that mean a dab on the interior of the crank where the washer sits against it?).

I put grease on the spindle thinking it would ease seating of the crank arm, knew I should have checked in with OP first. How serious of a mistake is that? I.e., am I better off removing, drying the spindle, and reinstalling?

Unfortunately, it seems that the threads on the interior of the drive side crank have been mangled slightly so I can't get the cover to thread in smoothly, and I assume that's not correctable so I'm going sans caps.

Thanks all.

A decent LBS should have a crank cover tap. 22x1.0