Anti-Seize vs. Teflon Tape On A Ti Frame
 

Well after two years of riding my Lynskey Level 3 Custom it finally developed a cyclic creak in the bottom bracket so I removed it last night. I remember when I put it together with a Record Ultra Torque Compact crank setup I only greased the threads on the frame and cups. I was too excited to put it together so I opted for synthetic grease instead of using a copper or nickel based anti-seize compound. I understand that some have been using a Teflon tape in place of seize compound and some even use tape with grease. I have availabe, some Lock-tite Nickel based anti-seize or I can use the Teflon tape method. I fear using the Teflon tape only because the interface of the threads between frame and cups are snug enough that three wraps of Teflon may cause excessive tightness while wrenching them down. What would you guys use?

I have an Eriksen ti frame with record UT cups, and I have found that the Park Anti Seize compound works very well. I have used teflon on some BB's that were extra noisy, but I limited it to a single wrap on the cup threads. I have never had to use more than the anti-seize on my Eriksen, so I would give that try first.

I was taught 1 wrap of teflon tape and a good bit of anti-seize.

T

IMO it's not an either/or answer, I use both grease or anti-seize and teflon tape on a bottom bracket installation.

Anti-seize has worked well with me over the years. Every once-in-a-while, I will get a little noise and I just take it a part, clean it and re-apply. I have used Teflon tape on one MTB that always creaked, it seemed to work but its easier just to apply Anti-seize.

I've only used tape when there was some sort of damage to either the cups or the BB threads. For example, if the BB worked its way loose and was slightly damaged. The tape helps fill the gap where the threads were damages. One any new BB anti seize is enough.

Just pull the teflon tape a little as you stretch one layer over the threads, you'll see how thin it gets. I usually give it a light rub with my finger, which makes the tape sort of stick in the threads and you'll see how the shape of the threads really shows through.

Camyp prefers that Blue Lock Tite is used and not grease or tape......

Just my $.02

Interesting how Campy makes a blanket statement on this issue. I wonder if the same applies to Ti frames. I only say this because even the blue Loc-Tite is very difficult to remove on Ti. I would hate to remove my cups later after using this stuff!

Anti-sieze for certain. Don't pay for park or cycling stuff - just go to the local auto supply store and get good 'ole anti-sieze (you obviously don't need the high temp type - just the copper colored kind. I like it in a chap stick like tube - makes it easy to apply and works great.)

Ti-prep, park, etc... all are the same chit you pay 1/4 the price for at your local Advance Auto or Pep Boys... if you want to you can certainly pay the premium to have park written on the container... but if you look at what the LBS is using I'll bet they bought theirs from the auto parts store. As far as tape - I use both. Campy does mention blue loctite (or green) for chain ring bolts... but I am not sure I would be willing to have my Ti frame sieze using just loctite for the BB... for me its teflon tape and copper anti-sieze. Never hurts to remove your BB every year or so - just to be sure...

:)

Haven't had any issues with the 3 Ti frames I have owned - but did find that teflon tape cures the annoying Ti creak that otherwise seems to be common with Ti frames.

Another vote for anti-seize. No issues with a couple of Ti bikes.

Almost 15 years and 95000 miles on my Legend Ti and my best results have come from a mix of Phil Wood grease and some anti sieze combined with plenty of torque. :beer:

For what it's worth Loctite 222 is purple, not blue. The blue stuff is 242 and has a stronger bond.

With that said I used the 222 per Campys instructions on a steel bike I built earlier in the year. When I went to swap the crank and BB I had a heck of a time getting the BB out. No way would I use it on an Aluminium frame. On my Moots I used anti-seize, 1000 miles in no issues with it coming loose or creeking. I do use it on the crank bolt however.

LOCTITE 2432 -- I think it mentions it is for titanium type sensitive metals.

Loctite 243 is the oil resitant version of 242. I personally would not use that based on my experiences. Like derosa_guy mentioned, the times I have used 222 per Campy's instructions have resulted in quite a bit of torque to remove the cups later. I prefer anti-seize and teflon tape as a back up only. I also use DuPont Krytox teflon grease as well, but it is ultra expensive.