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-   -   Drilling a Ti Frame for Di2? (https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=245967)

jmeloy 12-31-2019 09:41 AM

Drilling a Ti Frame for Di2?
 
Hi all, can you give me some thoughts on doing this? Who can do it, is it advisable?
Thanks!


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eddief 12-31-2019 09:46 AM

no matter what
 
my guess is there will not be room for the wires to get past the bottom bracket coming from the front of the bike.

the perfect situation for ETAP. try it, you'll like it.

kppolich 12-31-2019 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmeloy (Post 2638106)
Hi all, can you give me some thoughts on doing this? Who can do it, is it advisable?
Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thoughts? eTap

Clean39T 12-31-2019 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eddief (Post 2638110)
my guess is there will not be room for the wires to get past the bottom bracket coming from the front of the bike.

the perfect situation for ETAP. try it, you'll like it.

Unless you're running a 30mm spindle in a BSA 68mm shell, there will be plenty of room for the wires to go past the BB spindle.

You need three holes, one for the FD wire, one for the RD wire, and one for the entry point.

Litespeed has the best solution, IMHO. See the pic below where the headtube cable stops can be removed to open a port for the Di2 wire. If I were drilling a hole up front, that's how I would do it.

In the back, you could probably just have the wires exit the bottom of the BB shell where the cable guide screws in - tape the rear one under the chainstay to run it out the back and the front one just tucks up behind the seat-tube. Or have the RD cable stop shaved off and a hole drilled there so you can feed the wire down the inside of the chainstay and out that hole.

Good luck!

https://www.slowtwitch.com/articles/...ed2015new2.jpg

eddief 12-31-2019 11:03 AM

great explanation
 
!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clean39T (Post 2638130)
Unless you're running a 30mm spindle in a BSA 68mm shell, there will be plenty of room for the wires to go past the BB spindle.

You need three holes, one for the FD wire, one for the RD wire, and one for the entry point.

Litespeed has the best solution, IMHO. See the pic below where the headtube cable stops can be removed to open a port for the Di2 wire. If I were drilling a hole up front, that's how I would do it.

In the back, you could probably just have the wires exit the bottom of the BB shell where the cable guide screws in - tape the rear one under the chainstay to run it out the back and the front one just tucks up behind the seat-tube. Or have the RD cable stop shaved off and a hole drilled there so you can feed the wire down the inside of the chainstay and out that hole.

Good luck!

https://www.slowtwitch.com/articles/...ed2015new2.jpg


Clean39T 12-31-2019 11:07 AM

As for "who can do it" - try TiCycles: https://www.ticycles.com/services#retrofit

They list Di2 retrofit as a service, and Dave Levy (the guy behind it all) has been working on titanium longer than most.

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...G?format=1000w

That frame is an interesting one -- I think it's a Litespeed Vortex front end with some retrofitted monostay in the back.. Or else Ti Cycles got ahold of the same tubes that Litespeed was using in the years before the T1SL came out.

jmeloy 12-31-2019 11:47 AM

Good stuff gang. I have a good set of Di2 I could use.



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oldpotatoe 12-31-2019 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eddief (Post 2638110)
my guess is there will not be room for the wires to get past the bottom bracket coming from the front of the bike.

the perfect situation for ETAP. try it, you'll like it.

Depends on the frame. My EPS wires had no problem getting by/under my BB on my Merckx.

And, just for info..not titanium but I think more forgiving..I drilled the holes for EXTERNAL battery EPS into my knackered Merckx MXLeader..Been riding it since Feb 2014..no issues.

echappist 12-31-2019 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clean39T (Post 2638135)
As for "who can do it" - try TiCycles: https://www.ticycles.com/services#retrofit

They list Di2 retrofit as a service, and Dave Levy (the guy behind it all) has been working on titanium longer than most.

Yep. He is the person I contacted for my retrofit. The prices are quite reasonable as well.

shoota 12-31-2019 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmeloy (Post 2638139)
Good stuff gang. I have a good set of Di2 I could use.



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Anybody with the correct drill bit can do it. My buddy drilled his Ti Warbird for Di2 and it worked perfectly.

Butch 12-31-2019 01:12 PM

When you go through the bb shell make sure there is room where the drive side bb cup threads in and the vent hole. Also the grommits the Di2 comes with are for thicker material than a ti tube, they work but are loose fitting. Jagwire makes ones for thinner tubing and I believe they use a different drilled hole diameter.

Cat3roadracer 12-31-2019 01:18 PM

If you choose to do this tonight, perhaps after a few 7&7's, please post pictures.

notsew 12-31-2019 04:58 PM

People are so precious about stuff. I can't imagine how this could possibly be problematic.

Buy a nice new carbide bit for it.

roguedog 12-31-2019 08:08 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cat3roadracer (Post 2638163)
If you choose to do this tonight, perhaps after a few 7&7's, please post pictures.

This made me chuckle!

DRILL! DRILL! oops...

Attachment 1697990448

Jere 01-01-2020 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roguedog (Post 2638248)
This made me chuckle!

DRILL! DRILL! oops...

Attachment 1697990448

They forgot the head tube and handle bars Ha Ha
Back on subject
I’m a long time Sram hater but this year I had my last Mechanical bike break a shifter.
All my bikes are Electronic now except my fixed gear, Old Grumpy hands.
Out of my 15,000 miles I put 3000 miles on a Sram WiFi and it worked faultless.
Shimano components and Sram Red chain


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