Problem with Campy shifter
 

Hi folks.
I bought new Chorus brifters and derailleurs about 5 months ago for my Kish gravel bike.
Im having a problem with the right shifter. It shifts up (to larger cog) fine. But when shifting back down it gets jammed about half the time. To unjam it I have to shift back up one or more times before it will shift down. The cable does not look kinged. Bottom bracket lead is clean. I trimmed the hood a bit to allow the thumb paddle to return smoothly.
I have had problems with the return spring on Campy shifters in the past. I hope that this is not a problem on this new shifter.
What do you think?
Thanks.
Dan

When you shift up, you are providing the energy, when shifting down it's the spring. Drag in the system could be the culprit. At the risk of committing heresy, get some Jagwire polished cables (a LOT less drag). Also check routing to make sure all the bends are gradual, make sure the little brass grommet is still in the shifter where the cable comes out and make sure all your cable housings are trimmed evenly and smooth.

Make sure that you are not inadvertently moving the downshift lever as you try to depress the thumb paddle. This can cause the effect you're seeing.

Ah, the dreaded "Ergo Lock!"

If the upshift button won't move, pull the downshift lever out as far as it will go, to see if the upshift button frees up (likewise, if the downshift lever won't move, pull the upshift button up as far as it will go to see if the downshift lever frees up.

On the other hand, if the upshift button does move and gives the usual "click" but the derailleur doesn't move, then problem is more likely downstream, either in the cable (sticky or kinked cable) or the derailleur (sticky parallelogram pivots).

Usually, it's a minor thing, typically if I get a little too frisky in shifting quickly. It's usually nothing, but I do notice that it tends to happen more often in the winter....

Could be the 'pivot' of the thumb button, isn't. After depressing it, it needs to pivot out of the way of the teeth of the disc, either for 10s or 11s(is this a 11s lever?)..if it stays engaged in the teeth, it will not shift.

If continues, send it to me and I'll fix it.

I've had cold weather (below 35 F or so) shifting issues over the years with the the lower end ergos (Mirage, Veloce, Centaur)... notably not Chorus or Record.

Hesitancy or outright refused shifts. Goes away with slightly warmer weather. Don't know if it's carbon vs alloy, different grease or the benefits of ball bearings.

Or something else.

What's the purpose of that tiny grommet/washer?

11s feature and just a standard and flat place for the der housing to push against.

Correct. The cold weather effect kicks in at ~30s. It tends to happen more on a bike with Chorus (11), and not so much on others with Record (10), SR (11), and even Centaur (10) - go figure....
But, even in cold weather, it really only does it when I get sloppy.

Thanks Guys.
After ready your replies about the importance of frictionless cable run, I took a real close look at the cable and housing. I found a small kink in the cable as it was exiting the down tube thumb screw. I replaced the cable. No problem on the ride yesterday.
Good to know Mr. Old can service Campy. Not much Campy expertise out there these days.
Dan

OldPotatoe is one of the reasons I keep thinking about going back to Campy ...