Rear Wheel Not spinning when QR is locked down
 

I have a Roval CL 50 wheelset that I changed over from an XD freewheel to Shimano and from a through axle to a quick release axle. I had to change the freewheel and the endcaps along with skewers. After changing out the parts, everything seems be be fine until I tighten up the quick release on the back wheel. As soon as I clamp the wheel down, the free hub does not spin freely. The wheel itself will spin nicely, but when I turn the pedals, there is a ton of drag on the crank and the crank will not spin backwards. When I try and turn the crank backwards, the freewheel doesn't spin easily and the chain bunches up. When the QR is loose it spins, but clamping down the QR is compressing something and keeping the freewheel from spinning freely. Any idea what is wrong??

check the lockring on the cassette, make sure it's not contacting the face of the dropout.

I have checked that and as far as I can tell it looks clear. Thank you for the suggestion.

I assume your rear triangle is 135mm spaced and not the off 130 disc?

I’m thinking you missed a spacer somewhere and the end caps are pushing in too far getting caught on something

That's what I have been reading about. But, I am not sure if there is supposed to be a spacer or not. The freewheel didnt come with one. It does act exactly like the cap is pushing against the bearings or something inside the hub. I have looked for a schematic of the Roval hub and cannot find one.

what cassette did you switch to. You said shimano but how many speed and type.

Did you try and put a sram 11 road cassette on a shimano mtb freehub?

Is it a DT Swiss freehub body? Is it pawls or the star ratchet? If it's the star ratchet hub there's not a lot you can mess up tbh. If it's the pawls, a lot of hubs with pawls will have a spacer or washer to prevent the skewer or thru axle from compressing the freehub body bearing against the hub when tightened. If it's not DT Swiss at all it'd also be helpful to know what it's based on.

I'm not sure this would affect the ability to coast at all, just wouldn't be able to torque the lockring down a sufficient amount

The cassette is a SRAM 11. This is the hub and freewheel.


https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-ox79...103897.jpg?c=2

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/13...75210546544266

Freehub Body Info:
BRAND NEW DT SWISS FREEHUB BODY (Ratchet)
MODEL: 11 SPEED
ALUMINUM CONSTRUCTION
FITS: 180 , 190 , 240 , 350 AND 440 HUBS
WORKS WITH SHIMANO AND SRAM 11-SPEED CASSETTES

Hub Info:

Disc: Roval AFD2, Centerlock, sealed cartridge bearings, DT Swiss 350 internals, 11-speed, quick-release

Not sure where you could have gone wrong. There are 2 springs, 1 between the freehub body and the flat side of one star ratchet, one between the inside of the hub shell and the flat side of the other star ratchet. Both star ratchets have grooves that fit into either the freehub body or the hub shell. There is a long washer that runs over the axle and on the inside of both the star ratchets and springs. You should be able to turn the freehub body backwards a few turns to line everything up and push it fully against the hub shell. If the freehub body is flush against the hub and you have both springs installed right, there's not a lot more to check with the DT 350 internals as far as I know.

Thank you for that description. I will take it apart and make sure it is assembled correctly. I dont remember two springs but I will look. Thank again.

I just had a similar problem with a sram Red 1090 cassette. The wheel would bind, esp when rotating backwards.

For me, the cause was lockring touching dropout, due to the weird way the sram cassette fits together. The last two cogs have indentations that my eyes missed, so although I could get the lockring to thread the cassette was sitting proud 1-2mm. The wheel would rotate forward because the freehub would coast in that direction, but backwards rubbed the lockring on the inside of the dropout. Worse when the QR was tight, for sure. Once I got the last couple cogs on correctly, the cassette lockring had plenty of room.

I just re-read that your lockring isn't touching the dropout, so not sure if my anecdote is helpful. These other suggestions are good. Missing spacer from the conversion seems possible. Also, did you use a spacer on the freehub body?

Does the freehub spin in the frame with tightened skewer and no cassette?

If it is the freehub, there is a spacer between the two ratchets that has a very specific height and could cause something like this to happen. I don't recall all the details but I had a similar problem with a dt swiss hub when I swapped around parts from multiple hubs. I haven't dug into them since 8/9 speed so take all that for what's it worth.

Diagram...

Figured it out! Thank you guys! I had one of the two springs in the wrong location. Thank you description and picture. That helped immensely. You guys rock!!:banana: