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-   -   2021 Andy Gilmour Medium Reach Brake (https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=265120)

Bici-Sonora 02-14-2021 05:59 PM

2021 Andy Gilmour Medium Reach Brake
 
I'll go ahead and begin what might be a long thread.

Almost immediately after sending the Kirk MRB back to Bend Oregon to Dan's custody, I missed it. It wasn't just that specific Kirk, although that was part of it, but I was missing a fast light 700c x 30ish road bike that wasn't overbuilt for a 6'2" 170# rider.

I've known Andy Gilmour for about 15 years. He has done a bunch of repair work on my vintage frames: he replaced a top tube and re-painted a Raleigh International; reamed the seat tube of a Bruce Gordon; straightened and aligned the fork on a Lejeune. When I dropped off the fork, he called the same afternoon to tell me it was ready. Fast and friendly service, delivered with stories about frame building and racing, and usually a beer from the shop fridge. He builds aluminum and carbon too, but he largely flies under the radar.

Over the years, whenever I saw Andy at a swap or bike event, he would say, "when are you going to have me make you a bike?" to which I would reply, "as soon as I sell more of the bikes filling up my garage." Well, I've slowly but steadily simplified my collection, and Gilmour seemed like a great local choice to build me a bike to fill the slot left by the Kirk.

It will be my first custom. Including Kirk, I considered a bunch of other well-regarded makers often seen on the PL--Hampsten, Nobilette, DeSalvo, Clockwork, and others. In the end, I decided to keep it local. Andy's shop is only a short bike ride from my house.

I delivered him a folder with geometry options and photos and drawings that I've saved over the years. Andy is old school--no Cad drawings--but instead an actual scale paper drawing of the frame on a big old drafting board. He is a rim brake guy, and was grousing that he might have to buy thru-axle and disc frame building fixtures.

When I arrived, he showed me a Confente frame that had been in an accident and that he was repairing. He had spread out an assortment of Richard Sachs, Ritchey, and Pacenti lugs, fork crowns, and dropouts on the drafting table for me to fiddle with while we talked.

We talked about tire clearance, brakes, and forks. Steel or carbon is the first question, which also will determine if the fork will be 1" or 1 1/8". We also discussed standard vs. oversized tubing.

Next steps, decide on the fork material and bring in my mid-reach brakes and wheelset with the widest rim and tire combination that I plan to run on the bike.

After riding a brisk 60 miles on my MAP yesterday, I think I've answered the fork question: steel it will be.

More soon...

madsciencenow 02-14-2021 06:04 PM

This is going to be fun! Can’t wait to follow the journey here!!


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mhespenheide 02-14-2021 06:23 PM

I've heard a lot of good things about him, and you can't beat local access. Looking forwards to hearing more.

clyde the point 02-14-2021 07:21 PM

Sounds great I still dig my Mil on sale frame, keeps on surprising me! Always fun to jump on a custom and std reach brake bikes rock.

Bici-Sonora 02-14-2021 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clyde the point (Post 2881720)
Sounds great I still dig my Mil on sale frame, keeps on surprising me! Always fun to jump on a custom and std reach brake bikes rock.


I’m still planning to get the Milwaukee while I wait—might get the on sale one now. fun to compare.


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v531xc 02-15-2021 01:22 PM

oh wow, Scott, this sounds amazing! I'm tempted to say Andy should make a duplicate for me :-)

bicycletricycle 02-15-2021 01:36 PM

Exciting news! I recently got my old IF built tournesol back, 57mm reach brakes with 30mm tires right now. It is nice to have a simple "lightweight" in the stable although most of the time I still grab something with bigger tires, lights, fenders and a handlebar bag on it.

I am looking forward to some longer road rides this summer on that bike.

So many details to think about on a build like that.

u thinkin Modern or weirdo vintage rando parts?

Bici-Sonora 02-15-2021 02:52 PM

Parts---hold on just a second! I'm still trying to come to terms with how many degrees to slope to the top tube and such! haha.

I really *am* struggling a bit. Despite having owned so many good bicycles whose geometry I can use for reference, nailing down exactly what I want on this one is not proving as easy as I'd hoped. In plugging in numbers, I feel like I'm cooking up a weird amalgam of Dan's Kirk, my Rivendell Quickbeam, my Ritchey and my MAP. Take all those and then throw in a pinch of Chapman, Rob English, Look 595, Riv. Roadeo, and Ibis Hakka, and wait for son of Frankenbike to come to life.

Current frontrunner Geo.:

61cm ST (c to t)
72.5 deg. parallel HT & ST
590mm TT
3.5 degree TT Slope
197mm HT
45mm Fork Rake
435mm Chainstays
80mm BB drop

My concerns about the geo. above. Is the BB drop too much, and should I shorten the chainstays a bit?

Part of the geo. decision also centers around parts. The more modern the build, the more I'm likely to favor a more severe TT slope.

I have three build options on hand:
  • Black Chorus 12 with Black Deda and Whiskey cockpit seatpost. Black wheel choices include DT PR Dicut Onix 1400, DT 240 and Belgium Plus, or Zondas
  • Silver Centaur 11 Group with mix of Ritchey, Erikson cockpit stuff, Ritchey Classic wheelset
  • Campagnolo DT 10 Chorus Record Group. This would be RH crankset, with repurposed Record barends as DT shifters, Chorus RD. Ritchey Classic wheelset or DT 240 and Belgium Plus, or Zondas

Next discussion OS or standard diameter tubes? Another minefield. haha

Bici-Sonora 02-15-2021 03:10 PM

Here are a few of the steel bikes--both modern and more traditional--that Andy has built over the that I'm using for reference to think about what I want:

https://www.gilmourbicycles.us/image...?crc=158505437

https://www.gilmourbicycles.us/image...g?crc=24551011

https://www.gilmourbicycles.us/image...crc=4081542808

Bici-Sonora 02-15-2021 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bicycletricycle (Post 2882073)
Exciting news! I recently got my old IF built tournesol back, 57mm reach brakes with 30mm tires right now. It is nice to have a simple "lightweight" in the stable although most of the time I still grab something with bigger tires, lights, fenders and a handlebar bag on it.

I am looking forward to some longer road rides this summer on that bike.

So many details to think about on a build like that.

u thinkin Modern or weirdo vintage rando parts?

That is really cool. I have to say that Tournesols and Hampsten SBs are a big inspiration for the design of this bike. I also feel a desire to try to re-create my Boulder Road Sport (that you and Dan also owned) but in a size that fits me.

Bici-Sonora 02-15-2021 03:21 PM

Here are few more images of Gilmours--most of these racier than what I'm thinking of, but they have details I like. Andy's favorite steel of all time is 853, and he uses it a lot:

https://www.gilmourbicycles.us/image...g?crc=24551011

https://www.gilmourbicycles.us/image...?crc=298215199

https://www.gilmourbicycles.us/image...crc=3839655549

bicycletricycle 02-15-2021 03:26 PM

ya, trying to get everything just right can be tough, it is easy to overthink it.

How will he be joining the tubes? I assume TIG or fillet if you are freely considering slope angles?

When I think of the parts I just decide the important things first-
1. gearing
2. tire width
3. shifter location

Then figure out the parts that support that.

For me this usually means I am choosing weirdo parts :)

I totally know what you mean about slope angle being related to part style, seems silly but oh well :) The other main reason for more slope is more seat post equals more suspension.

As far as chainstay length goes. I like to have the same amount of gap between the front tire / downtube and rear wheel / seat tube. Just looks nice. I don't think chainstay length is really important. Shorter will be a little bit stiffer but in reality is hard to notice. Shorter ones may make the bike feel a little racier because it can change direction slightly faster it isn't actually faster. That easier change of direction might actually make the bike slower.

BB drop, I used to think BB drop was a big deal but less so recently. I have spent a lot of time on 2 different bikes recently. one with a 10.5" bb and one wit a 11.75" bb. After getting used to it they both feel great. I am not saying that you can't tell the difference but just that I think it is easy to make too big a fuss about this. For me bb height is more about a balance of easy mounting/dismounting and ground clearance for cornering/road obstacles.

bicycletricycle 02-15-2021 03:27 PM

that boulder was cool, wish i rode it, was afraid it was going to be too flexy for me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bici-Sonora (Post 2882146)
That is really cool. I have to say that Tournesols and Hampsten SBs are a big inspiration for the design of this bike. I also feel a desire to try to re-create my Boulder Road Sport (that you and Dan also owned) but in a size that fits me.


bicycletricycle 02-15-2021 03:48 PM

also, when I think of what I now think of as the best balance of speed and comfort in a road tire I think my chapman with 700x35 RH extralights is superior to the tournesols 700x30/32 tire options. But for various reasons I think bikes with 57mm reach calipers (roughly limted to 33's?) are more compelling.

The 35's just don't feel slower but they are super comfy. I think the big trouble with going up to 35's is brakes. Long reach calipers don't work (i think?) and then you have to start debating cantis vs centerpulls vs discs. A debate which has no correct answer.

Also, which 57mm reach brakes? The nice shimano ones with alloy barrel adjusters (BR-R600?) are getting rare and expensive, the VO's work well but are a little CNC looking, I am a snob and can't be seen on Tektro's.

chapman with 35's-
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6ac72986_k.jpgUntitled by bicycletricycle666, on Flickr

tournesol with 30's (want to get it onto 32's this summer)-
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b21192bc_k.jpgUntitled by bicycletricycle666, on Flickr

Clean39T 02-15-2021 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bicycletricycle (Post 2882155)
that boulder was cool, wish i rode it, was afraid it was going to be too flexy for me.

It definitely would have been. I still pine for a similar bike - light tubing, road geometry, and fat-tire clearance.. It rode exceptionally well despite how flexy it was, or maybe because of how flexy it was, I just want it with slightly stouter tubing and slightly bigger overall - my affinity for 130mm stems has waned in favor of a bit longer TTs and bigger frames, with 42cm bars instead of 40cm. Having Waterford or Gunnar or Wages build one similar would make a great superfluous N+1 one of these days.

Clean39T 02-15-2021 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bici-Sonora (Post 2882124)

Current frontrunner Geo.:

61cm ST (c to t)
72.5 deg. parallel HT & ST
590mm TT
3.5 degree TT Slope
197mm HT
45mm Fork Rake
435mm Chainstays
80mm BB drop

My concerns about the geo. above. Is the BB drop too much, and should I shorten the chainstays a bit?

Part of the geo. decision also centers around parts. The more modern the build, the more I'm likely to favor a more severe TT slope.

I have three build options on hand:
  • Black Chorus 12 with Black Deda and Whiskey cockpit seatpost. Black wheel choices include DT PR Dicut Onix 1400, DT 240 and Belgium Plus, or Zondas
  • Silver Centaur 11 Group with mix of Ritchey, Erikson cockpit stuff, Ritchey Classic wheelset
  • Campagnolo DT 10 Chorus Record Group. This would be RH crankset, with repurposed Record barends as DT shifters, Chorus RD. Ritchey Classic wheelset or DT 240 and Belgium Plus, or Zondas

My votes:

Go slightly OS on the tubing so you can still feel confident on it with two bottles and a frame pack.

Steal the English style of putting braze-ons for a under-TT custom bag - so much more aero and stable than a burrito bag hanging off the front or something dangling off the saddle.

Chorus 12 is perfect for this kind of bike.

80mm BB drop is perfect with the fatter tires as compared to running 80mm w 23c.

435 chainstays are great for our height.

Slight TT slope as needed to allow a 280-300mm post and get your bars in the right spot. I'm guessing 3 deg max, hopefully less, though a bit of extra standover on a bike that could see some underbiking allroad stuff might not be bad. Just don't go over 5-deg please..

Everything else looks wonderful and very much in line with something I'd love to have myself!

Bici-Sonora 02-15-2021 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bicycletricycle (Post 2882174)
also, when I think of what I now think of as the best balance of speed and comfort in a road tire I think my chapman with 700x35 RH extralights is superior to the tournesols 700x30/32 tire options. But for various reasons I think bikes with 57mm reach calipers (roughly limted to 33's?) are more compelling.

The 35's just don't feel slower but they are super comfy. I think the big trouble with going up to 35's is brakes. Long reach calipers don't work (i think?) and then you have to start debating cantis vs centerpulls vs discs. A debate which has no correct answer.

Also, which 57mm reach brakes? The nice shimano ones with alloy barrel adjusters (BR-R600?) are getting rare and expensive, the VO's work well but are a little CNC looking, I am a snob and can't be seen on Tektro's.

I love your Champman. The lines just flow on that bike. That makes me think I should consider more top tube slope than 3.5 degrees. Do you mind sharing your Chapman geo or at least the TT slope? It looks to have a steeper HTA than the STA.

I'm for sure designing this frame with RH 35mm tires in mind so it is good to hear you like them so much. I've gradually been converting most of my bikes to tubeless. From what I see online (mostly from Mike Varley's blog) 35s are possible without fenders (even perhaps 38s) on 47-57 reach brakes if the builder maximizes clearances. I have a set of VO Grand Crus in Silver and like the way they work with Campy levers. Paul Racer Ms have even more clearance. At that point though, maybe I just do mini-motos. Yours sure look great.

Bici-Sonora 02-15-2021 05:02 PM

Nice to get some confirmation from a rider of similar stature.
Quote:

Originally Posted by Clean39T (Post 2882189)
My votes:

Go slightly OS on the tubing so you can still feel confident on it with two bottles and a frame pack.My gut tells me OS too. My MAP is OS, your Kirk is OS, and I remember Mike Kone at Boulder saying anything bigger than 60cm should probably be OS. A compromise would be to do regular OS (as opposed to double OS--so, 31.8 DT, 28.6 TT and ST

Steal the English style of putting braze-ons for a under-TT custom bag - so much more aero and stable than a burrito bag hanging off the front or something dangling off the saddle.That is a good idea that I hadn't considered. I'll take a look at Rob's site

Chorus 12 is perfect for this kind of bike.I agree, the sub-compact should be just about perfect--I'm fighting an urge to put DT shifters on it for the sake of front end cable cleanliness, but I've really liked the Campy brifters

80mm BB drop is perfect with the fatter tires as compared to running 80mm w 23c.

435 chainstays are great for our height.Good to get confirmation on that. I think it is a good middle ground. Andy pulled out some super thin Reynolds seat stays that I think will compliment the back end well.

Slight TT slope as needed to allow a 280-300mm post and get your bars in the right spot. I'm guessing 3 deg max, hopefully less, though a bit of extra standover on a bike that could see some underbiking allroad stuff might not be bad. Just don't go over 5-deg please..I agree--I'll keep it at 3 degrees

Everything else looks wonderful and very much in line with something I'd love to have myself!


Bici-Sonora 02-15-2021 05:18 PM

More questions: are your Chapman and Tournesol 1 1/8" steerers? And, I know you were involved with the design of that front bag--any update on production and availability? It looks better than I anticipated.

bicycletricycle 02-15-2021 05:57 PM

both are 1.125", they are both double oversize tubing as well. I like that size tubing for my weight but I also like the smoother ride of oversize tubing with 1" head tube. I think a nice 1" steel fork can't be beat.

First bags will be shipping in the next couple weeks. I think it will be a month or more before we have some for new sales, we need to ship all the pre sales and kickstarter first. We got nice fitting shims machined for 26 and i think 25.4mm as well

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bici-Sonora (Post 2882248)
More questions: are your Chapman and Tournesol 1 1/8" steerers? And, I know you were involved with the design of that front bag--any update on production and availability? It looks better than I anticipated.


Clean39T 02-15-2021 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bici-Sonora (Post 2882242)
Nice to get some confirmation from a rider of similar stature.

I support the regular OS w 1" steerer... Zero reason to go 1.125" if you weigh under 200lb and aren't loading it up, atmo.

bicycletricycle 02-15-2021 06:03 PM

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...11fb0e4c_c.jpgchapman #4 by bicycletricycle666, on Flickr


Quote:

Originally Posted by Bici-Sonora (Post 2882190)
I love your Champman. The lines just flow on that bike. That makes me think I should consider more top tube slope than 3.5 degrees. Do you mind sharing your Chapman geo or at least the TT slope? It looks to have a steeper HTA than the STA.

I'm for sure designing this frame with RH 35mm tires in mind so it is good to hear you like them so much. I've gradually been converting most of my bikes to tubeless. From what I see online (mostly from Mike Varley's blog) 35s are possible without fenders (even perhaps 38s) on 47-57 reach brakes if the builder maximizes clearances. I have a set of VO Grand Crus in Silver and like the way they work with Campy levers. Paul Racer Ms have even more clearance. At that point though, maybe I just do mini-motos. Yours sure look great.


hollowgram5 02-15-2021 10:01 PM

If you were closer to San Diego, I'd let you borrow the Cielo Sportif for a bit as another point of reference...

Bici-Sonora 02-15-2021 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hollowgram5 (Post 2882402)
If you were closer to San Diego, I'd let you borrow the Cielo Sportif for a bit as another point of reference...


I’d take you up on that if I was in dog town. I always liked those Sportifs. IIRC, the bigger sizes have a 74 degree HTA and 72.5 STA. What size is yours?


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hollowgram5 02-15-2021 10:18 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bici-Sonora (Post 2882407)
I’d take you up on that if I was in dog town. I always liked those Sportifs. IIRC, the bigger sizes have a 74 degree HTA and 72.5 STA. What size is yours?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a 60. So 595 tt and 74/72.5 on the angles.

I pulled the geo a while back from the waybackmachine but it seems to be gone from that page now. (Seems to be a Chrome issue, came up just fine in firefox...)

lavi 02-16-2021 12:24 AM

This is an awesome thread.

I’m currently in the process of sorting a Ti SB. Dan is helping me keep it between the lines. Mine will be optimized for 35s. I’ve been pretty focused on discs (Klampers) for some reason. Knowing I could have some mrbs or something makes me pause for a moment. I’ll likely continue with discs in case I ever get into some gnarly gravel and want to run 650/48.

I’m dangerously close to overthinking the geo and second-guessing as I get closer to “done”.



It’s interesting that I’ll pick up a frame used or off the peg (looking at you Aethos) without much real fretting on geo. Order something custom...and I’m literally losing sleep thinking about it. My wife thinks I’ve lost it when she comes into a room and sees my staring blankly at the wall. She knows I’m (poorly) practicing geometry in my head. Lol

Continue the discussion please.

8aaron8 02-16-2021 09:56 AM

This is a fun thread, nice to read the thought process of prospective custom frame owners. I just want to add that with the TRP 957 mid reach brakes you can indeed get a 38mm tire under it if the slots are set up at their max height. Here's a photo of the brakes with Steilacooms underneath.https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...dd0ce208_b.jpg

Clean39T 02-16-2021 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8aaron8 (Post 2882544)
This is a fun thread, nice to read the thought process of prospective custom frame owners. I just want to add that with the TRP 957 mid reach brakes you can indeed get a 38mm tire under it if the slots are set up at their max height. Here's a photo of the brakes with Steilacooms underneath.https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...dd0ce208_b.jpg

Have you put a caliper on those? Curious what the actual is on whatever rims you are running..

8aaron8 02-16-2021 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clean39T (Post 2882550)
Have you put a caliper on those? Curious what the actual is on whatever rims you are running..

I did, they measured spot on 38mm on 18mm internal rims, and with 21mm internal rims I got around 39ishmm.

Bici-Sonora 02-16-2021 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bicycletricycle (Post 2882154)
As far as chainstay length goes. I like to have the same amount of gap between the front tire / downtube and rear wheel / seat tube. Just looks nice.

^This

I had not thought about it that way, but now I see that some of my favorite bikes have roughly the same gap front and rear. It's another thing to consider.

Bici-Sonora 02-16-2021 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8aaron8 (Post 2882560)
I did, they measured spot on 38mm on 18mm internal rims, and with 21mm internal rims I got around 39ishmm.

Great info Aaron. Thanks for sharing. You were the first builder I know of who pulled this off. Maybe I should shoot for 38s now!

Bici-Sonora 02-16-2021 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hollowgram5 (Post 2882410)
It's a 60. So 595 tt and 74/72.5 on the angles.

I pulled the geo a while back from the waybackmachine but it seems to be gone from that page now. (Seems to be a Chrome issue, came up just fine in firefox...)

It's like the old Lemond/Bridgestone RB-1 geometry but with a little longer stays and more tire clearance. Thanks for adding to the discussion.

Bici-Sonora 02-16-2021 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lavi (Post 2882436)


It’s interesting that I’ll pick up a frame used or off the peg (looking at you Aethos) without much real fretting on geo. Order something custom...and I’m literally losing sleep thinking about it. My wife thinks I’ve lost it when she comes into a room and sees my staring blankly at the wall. She knows I’m (poorly) practicing geometry in my head. Lol

Continue the discussion please.

I totally get you. Of the peg bike: if it looks close enough, I just pull the trigger. But with a custom, you are like the CEO of a micro bike co. If it rides like sh*t, you might be the one responsible! I mean, the framebuilder is hopefully an experienced guide, but you ultimately have to sign off on the geo. sheet.

As a liberal arts major, I did everything I could to avoid math in college. But now I love fooling with bicycle geometry. If my junior high geometry teacher would have had me draw BMX frames, my whole life could be different.

Bici-Sonora 02-16-2021 12:05 PM

Sloping TT Option
 
Sorry Dan, I've begun to dabble in the dark art of the 6% sloping TT.

bicycletricycle 02-16-2021 12:46 PM

yet another thing to consider

I don't think -17 stems look good on 6 degree slope top tubes. As a general rule stems look nice when they are parallel to the top tube but this is only a rough generalization.

bicycletricycle 02-16-2021 12:49 PM

also, if it is 1" do you go threaded or threadless? each has its own...... challenges.

Bici-Sonora 02-16-2021 12:54 PM

Taking some cues from Mr. Wages and his DRB, which has the 6 degree slope:

"The main difference between a cross bike and the DRB is the height of the bottom bracket. Typically, cross bikes have a high bottom bracket (60 to 70mm of drop), so you’re not hitting your pedals on rocks and roots, and don’t have to worry about clipping a pedal in the turns. The DRB on the other hand is designed much like a Grand Tour bike from the 70’s with a lower bottom bracket, longer reach brakes, plenty of room for wider tires or fenders and longer chainstays than today’s 400mm super tight carbon bikes.

Other than the chainstays and fork being about 10-15mm longer for increased clearance, this bike has virtually the same geometry as my “go-fast” road bike. Parallel 73 degree head and seat angles, a 56cm ST c-c, 59.5cm top tube with 6 degrees of slope, and 80mm of bottom bracket drop, which really makes the bike super stable and comfy for long days."

Full article here: https://overthebarsinmilwaukee.wordp...-in-the-world/

Bici-Sonora 02-16-2021 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bicycletricycle (Post 2882669)
also, if it is 1" do you go threaded or threadless? each has its own...... challenges.

I've pretty much made up my mind on threadless for this one. I have plenty of threaded HS bikes, but this one is gonna be more modern I think.

You make a good observation about the TT slope and stem. I agree, the stem angle should more or less match the TT slope. Your Chapman stem does this quite well.

v531xc 02-16-2021 12:59 PM

Really loving this thread.

My data points to share:

The geo you outlined is really close to three bikes I have and very close to what I'd ideally make as a mash up of them all.

My Chapman is a little shorter in TT (585), the stack is a little taller, and the bb is a little higher (65mm drop) because of being designed around 650b, I wanted it to be more comfy/upright, and I underbike it a lot. 73.2/73.5 STA/HTA. 435 chainstays and it fits 44mm tires in 700c if I wanted without fenders.

With an 80mm bb drop, it might be more like 38mm or 40mm max.

My Bilenky is also similar about 59cm ST c-t, 575 eTT c-c. 80mm drop, 72/73.5 STA/HTA. 422mm chainstays and perfectly fits 33mm tires without fenders under midreach brakes.

My Bruce Gordon is 61 ST c-t, 59 TT, 70mm drop, 73/72 STA/HTA, 420mm stays without a chainstay bridge and fits a 43mm tire front and rear (700c).

I have a Ritchey Breakaway Road XL and if I were to get the bike you're getting, I'd emulate that and mash it up with the above three bikes to get the 80mm drop, ~430mm stays, ~600mm stack, ~410mm reach and 73/73 parallel ST/HT. Depending on the brakes and fork design, I assume it would fit 38mm tires.

On TT slope, My Chapman and Bilenky are both 6 degrees, iirc. They look good to me :-) Both are filet brazed.

On tubing, I agree on going OS with a bike like this. My Bilenky is OS but has a 6-4-6 top tube. I really like the flex, but its very different from the other bikes which are stiffer. the Chapman being OOS and OS and the BG being a mix of stuff.

A 1" fork would be great, as you'll get all the flex characteristics you might want. But if you want swappability with something like a Whisky mid reach fork, then you'll need to find some flexy blades to go with the 1.125" steerer. I've really liked the stuff that Richard Sachs has for the standard fork blades. And I hear good things about what Rene Herse has to offer, too.

bicycletricycle 02-16-2021 01:05 PM

custom steel threadless stem painted to match I hope.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bici-Sonora (Post 2882677)
I've pretty much made up my mind on threadless for this one. I have plenty of threaded HS bikes, but this one is gonna be more modern I think.

You make a good observation about the TT slope and stem. I agree, the stem angle should more or less match the TT slope. Your Chapman stem does this quite well.



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