The Paceline Forum

The Paceline Forum (https://forums.thepaceline.net/index.php)
-   General Discussion (https://forums.thepaceline.net/forumdisplay.php?f=3)
-   -   A simple slide guide to tubeless and hookless (https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=304843)

Baron Blubba 03-05-2024 08:16 AM

A simple slide guide to tubeless and hookless
 
The recent thread about hookless tubeless motivated me to make this series of slides for our shop social media and newsletter. I've shared it with local clubs and will be sending it out every so often. I know it's not comprehensive, and I know opinions will vary slightly on certain numbers. Before tearing it apart in idiosyncratic Paceline/Internet fashion, please keep in mind that this is intended for a less informed and tech savvy audience than most of the folks who frequent these parts and places similar. That said (heh), if you have any recommendations for how I could improve this, whether editing an existing slide or creating a new slide, I'd be happy to hear 'em.

For context, I've included the little blurb I posted, too. Also, the handsome dude setting up the tire in the first slide is my friend and ace mechanic, probably the most conscientious mechanic I've ever met, Ian.

"Tubeless and hookless tubeless are two of the most frequent conversations we have with our customers. Hookless tubeless in particular has been under the microscope of cycling media in the last few weeks. At B3 Bikes, we are advocates of road tubeless and hookless road tubeless, when done right. We designed this slideshow to help you do it right, so you can enjoy the many benefits of road tubeless in confidence and safety."

[IMG]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...579693bc_z.jpgWhat is tubeless - 1 by Michael Lock, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8755c361_z.jpgTubeless pressure guide v2 - 1 by Michael Lock, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cfddba3c_z.jpgWhat is hookless tubeless - 1 by Michael Lock, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...25817f38_z.jpgRules of hookless tubeless - 1 by Michael Lock, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4dfb29ff_z.jpgTubeless Q&A V1 - 1 by Michael Lock, on Flickr[/IMG]

Likes2ridefar 03-05-2024 08:23 AM

I think the tape is worth mentioning more since it is almost always the culprit for a poor setup.

Don’t use levers when mounting a tubeless tire to avoid damaging the tape.

Baron Blubba 03-05-2024 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Likes2ridefar (Post 3359141)
I think the tape is worth mentioning more since it is almost always the culprit for a poor setup.

Don’t use levers when mounting a tubeless tire to avoid damaging the tape.

Ooooh, good ones, thank you.

RoosterCogset 03-05-2024 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baron Blubba (Post 3359134)
please keep in mind that this is intended for a less informed and tech savvy audience than most of the folks

At B3 Bikes, we are advocates of road tubeless and hookless road tubeless, when done right.

[IMG]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...25817f38_z.jpgRules of hookless tubeless - 1 by Michael Lock, on Flickr[/IMG]

I'd only maybe you suggest why, given all the rest, you are advocating for hookless specifically?

Baron Blubba 03-05-2024 08:35 AM

Did it come across like that? I meant it to mean that we advocate both tubeless *and* hookless. Lemme have a look and see if I can rephrase it to be more accurate.

gravelreformist 03-05-2024 09:28 AM

I think the premise is great. I also think you're going to have to greatly condense the text to have the intended effect.

I'd try to edit each slide down to 3-5 bullet points that are each easy to read on their own. I'm interested in the topic and a voracious reader, and I'm having a hard time consuming the content.

AngryScientist 03-05-2024 09:30 AM

IMO, that is way too many words. As a casual user I'd either be annoyed, scared off, or flat out not read most of that.

The idea is good though.

GregL 03-05-2024 09:32 AM

Thanks for sharing this. While I don't currently use road tubeless, I'm starting to pay more attention to the technology. I was on a training ride this weekend with five friends. The roads were wet and grimy with winter road debris and dirt, raising the probability for flats. Sure enough we had two flats. One was with a conventional clincher tire. It was easily fixed and we were on our way in minutes. The second flat was with a road tubeless tire. The sealant wasn't sufficient to stop the leak. The rider didn't have any tubeless plugs, so we resorted to removing the valve stem and using a spare tube. By the time we waited to see if the sealant would work, determined we didn't have any plugs, removed the tire and tubeless valve stem, installed the tire/tube and re-inflated, we lost 30 minutes. My takeaway: road tubeless just isn't for me (yet).

Greg

gravelreformist 03-05-2024 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregL (Post 3359184)
Thanks for sharing this. While I don't currently use road tubeless, I'm starting to pay more attention to the technology. I was on a training ride this weekend with five friends. The roads were wet and grimy with winter road debris and dirt, raising the probability for flats. Sure enough we had two flats. One was with a conventional clincher tire. It was easily fixed and we were on our way in minutes. The second flat was with a road tubeless tire. The sealant wasn't sufficient to stop the leak. The rider didn't have any tubeless plugs, so we resorted to removing the valve stem and using a spare tube. By the time we waited to see if the sealant would work, determined we didn't have any plugs, removed the tire and tubeless valve stem, installed the tire/tube and re-inflated, we lost 30 minutes. My takeaway: road tubeless just isn't for me (yet).

Greg

This is common when people are not yet familiar with how to deal with the technology. My last few tubeless flats have all been fixed in under a minute either by inserting a plug or simply stopping for a moment, placing the puncture side down, and letting the sealant do its thing. Plugging the tire on the side of the road is one of those things that most people aren't yet very familiar with, but it's very easy, very fast, and works very well.

That said, for road riding, I do use tubeless as I can ride my 28's at 70psi. If I were heavier and needing to run that tire size, I'd stick with tubes - and even at 60-70psi the benefits of tubeless are pretty marginal.

Nomadmax 03-05-2024 09:44 AM

I'll pass on anything that needs a PowerPoint presentation.

RoosterCogset 03-05-2024 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baron Blubba (Post 3359152)
Did it come across like that? I meant it to mean that we advocate both tubeless *and* hookless. Lemme have a look and see if I can rephrase it to be more accurate.

Maybe consider what the target reader is shopping for. I suppose you may have inventory or obligations for certain wheel companies' hookless products, because otherwise, on your listing of relevant rules related to hookles, you could asterix and footnote a good number of these and indicate 'not relevant with hooked tubeless wheels'.

Or general guidance, like hookless tubeless is ideally suited to wider tire, lower pressure riding such as for CX or MTB terrain.

FWIW, as a Giant dealer (which B3 is?), Giant themselves would disagree with your rule #3 (73psi) on their stock bike such as this one:

https://www.bikebladeball.com/produc...a-398078-1.htm

benb 03-05-2024 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nomadmax (Post 3359193)
I'll pass on anything that needs a PowerPoint presentation.

Yep.. sales pitch to spend thousands of dollars that doesn't need to be spent, doesn't make you faster, doesn't actually yield a huge increase in traction/feel/comfort/speed and is clearly more complicated.

Gravel or MTB, yes. Road, who cares.

Awkward that when we discuss this some posters are arguing for it cause they are selling it.

makoti 03-05-2024 10:08 AM

I run my tubeless (hooked) at 75/85 without issue and I got my psi suggestions from the Sram Calc.
They run smooth
They seal
I don't see why you'd bold that like it's the most important "fact" then repeat it as #3.

benb 03-05-2024 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by makoti (Post 3359214)
Is this for offroad only? Because I run my tubeless (hooked) at 75/85 without issue

He is talking about hookless.

But for me the 72psi limit for pavement riding is just too limiting.

makoti 03-05-2024 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregL (Post 3359184)
By the time we waited to see if the sealant would work, determined we didn't have any plugs, removed the tire and tubeless valve stem, installed the tire/tube and re-inflated, we lost 30 minutes. My takeaway: road tubeless just isn't for me (yet).

Greg

Sounds like your ill-prepared riding partner was the problem, not the tubeless.
Not enough sealant in the tire?
No plug?
Did he have a spare tube?

makoti 03-05-2024 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benb (Post 3359217)
He is talking about hookless.

But for me the 72psi limit for pavement riding is just too limiting.

Are you sure? It doesn't specify hookless in the first part, though it does as #3

benb 03-05-2024 10:23 AM

You're right, he's mixing them up.

I think the "never go about 72.5psi" is intended for hookless though, but maybe an oversimplification to provide safety?

I have no doubt I could figure this out and get myself on a setup that would work. But it would cost me a ton of money and I am extremely skeptical it would actually improve riding at all for me. The only possible benefit would be access to more aero wheels.

FastCanon 03-05-2024 10:52 AM

I had a 2mm gash a couple of weeks ago. I thought it wasn't sealing when I pumped it up so I rode for several blocks before needing to pump up again. The second time I pumped up the tire, it seemed the puncture had sealed. My tire hasn't lost air since but I did need to wash my bike and added more sealant.

I should have rotated so the gash be at the bottom of the wheel to let sealant seal before pumping. Rain and urgency to come home before certain time makes you skip steps.

MikeD 03-05-2024 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benb (Post 3359232)
You're right, he's mixing them up.

I think the "never go about 72.5psi" is intended for hookless though, but maybe an oversimplification to provide safety?

I have no doubt I could figure this out and get myself on a setup that would work. But it would cost me a ton of money and I am extremely skeptical it would actually improve riding at all for me. The only possible benefit would be access to more aero wheels.

According to the newest ETRTO standard, 72.5 psi only applies to tire width of 25-29mm. The wider you go, the less the max pressure.

Mark McM 03-05-2024 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeD (Post 3359260)
According to the newest ETRTO standard, 72.5 psi only applies to tire width of 25-29mm. The wider you go, the less the max pressure.

Yes, this is an important point. And this type of confusion is part of the argument against hookless - there are many more factors to consider, and a lot of confusion in the marketplace regarding proper practices for hookless rim, and when combined with lower safety tolerances of hookless makes it easier to get into trouble if you don't know what you are doing.

The original charts say that the maximum pressure you should ever use in hookless tires is 72.5 psi, and that you shouldn't exceed the maximum pressure printed on the tire or rim - but this is incorrect. Firstly, as MikeD pointed out, the maximum pressure for hookless rims varies with tire width. Here's the maximum pressure chart from the article on the Escape Collective:

https://escapecollective.com/wp-cont...t-11.13.42.png

For example the maximum pressure for a 35mm tire is 400 Kpa = 58 psi.

Secondly, many tubeless tires will have a higher maximum pressure when mounted on hooked rims than when mounted on hookless rims. But the sidewall of the tire may only specify the absolute maximum pressure (i.e the maximum for hooked rims), rather than the maximum pressure for hookless rims. For example, a 700x30c tubeless tire may have "maximum pressure 75 psi" printed on the sidewall, which may be perfectly fine on a 19mm hooked rim, but is 10 psi (15%) above the 65 psi maximum for this size tire on a hookless rim. Even if this tire was inflated to the maximum 72.5 psi printed on the rim, then it would still be 2% above the blow-off pressure tolerance - and if it was inflated with a pump whose pressure gauge reported lower than actual (and many bicycle pressure gauges are only good to +/- 10%), then this tire could be even further above the maximum safe pressure.

fa63 03-05-2024 01:43 PM

Personally, I wouldn't stick my neck out and advocate for hookless, even with all the caveats. I would instead list the pros and cons of both hooked and hookless so the end user can make an informed decision. But that is just me.

fa63 03-05-2024 01:51 PM

I also just noticed that Zipp have modified their online tire pressure calculator when hookless is selected, so that when it comes up with a pressure that exceeds the rim pressure rating, it throws up an error message instead simply saying use the maximum pressure. Not sure when that change was made, but I remember it not being like that when I last used it (for example, it would just say 72.5 psi for 28 mm tires on hookless rims even if you put a 250-lbs rider in there).

Dave 03-05-2024 02:12 PM

FWIW, a 250 pound rider on 23mm IW rims and 35mm tires only needs 58psi, according to Zipp. That's well under the ETRTO maximum. Using 25mm IW drops another 2psi off.

I'd follow the recommendations on the tire. My 30mm Pirelli P-Zero road TLR tires say 5 bar maximum hookless, but 6 bar hooked.

Mark McM 03-05-2024 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave (Post 3359373)
FWIW, a 250 pound rider on 23mm IW rims and 35mm tires only needs 58psi, according to Zipp. That's well under the ETRTO maximum.

That's actually the ISO maximum for that tire width on hookless* rims (see table above). Interestingly, Zipp recommends 62 psi for the same rider, tire and inner rim width, if the rims have hooks.

*There was an error in the original post that has now been corrected - originally it incorrectly said "That's actually the ISO maximum for that tire on hooked rims."

Baron Blubba 03-05-2024 04:02 PM

Sigh, I should have known this would cause another tubeless spitstorm.

Let's lighten the mood with a little irony. Today, a half our after making this post, I went for a ride on the only non-tubeless (I think they called that tubed back in the anteditubelesseluvian days) bike I own.
Less than an hour after that...this happened...
[IMG]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...54a7bc79_c.jpgUntitled by Michael Lock, on Flickr[/IMG]
Annoying, but couldn't help but laugh. This is the first flat I've had in like two years, riding 20+ hours a week. Thank goodness I still remember how to fix these things.
Tangential product review: The Fumpa Pump Nano mini compressor is really good. So small and light I don't feel it in my pocket, and it inflated my tire in no time...flat? Never bothering with co2 or mini hand pumps again, cross my bosom.

Anyway.

- To the gentleman who had a momentary lapse of gentleness and accused me of advocating for tubeless or hookless because I sell it: That is quite a cynical and slanderous indictment of my character. I sell things that I advocate, not other way around. If I really wanted to make money, I'd tell all of my customers how awful and unsafe hookless is, and, since many performance bikes come with hookless wheels, make an add-on hooked-rim sale. Ka-ching.

- To the same momentarily lapsed gentleman, who now posits that tubeless is thousands of dollars that don't need to be spent. Correct, the money doesn't need to be spent. But insinuating that the price is any higher than a regular wheelset is misleading. A tubeless wheel is no more expensive than an equivalent clincher. Further, you could get a tubeless wheelset for under $500 if you wanted.
But I understand that you don't feel the need to change what's working for you. I've said it before and I'll say it again: Bikes keep getting better and better, and the improvements between iterations are often substantial --I'm not talking just 'aero/stiffness/weight/compliance', I'm talking the overall feel of these bikes.
And yet, when I ride my 30+ year old Trek 2300, or an $800 aluminum Claris equipped road bike, I think 'dang, bikes don't really *need* to be better than this in order for me to have a great time.'
Still, when I get on a great modern bike, I think 'Dang, I'm lucky to be alive and loving bikes at a time when bikes are so amazingly good.'

- To the fella who suggested that I have obligations to companies which caused me to word certain things certain ways: I have no obligations to anyone. I wrote this admittedly imperfect 'document' for the educational benefit of my customers and whoever else finds it floating around FB or IG. If a certain point was applicable to hookless, I usually erred on the side safety and did not distinguish between hookless and tubeless. Still, I like your idea of asterisks, and will incorporate that into the next edition.

- As far as 75 psi or less being limiting, I think that's only true if one is heavy, say 220+ lbs, and likes the feel of a 25mm tire. That simply isn't possible with tubeless --you'd have to go to (and I'm not checking my math or science on this, I'm sorry) somewhere around 32mm. Otherwise, I don't get what is meant by 'limiting.'

- I used the 72.5 psi number as the maximum just to err on the side of safety. Also, anything above 75-80 psi and I've noticed that the sealant becomes less effective, so I was considering not only rim/tire safety but also the efficacy of the entire tubeless set up.

- I want to reiterate that I created this not as a sales tool, goodness knows I don't need to resort to this to sell bikes. I made this because the other spitstorm of a hookless thread that's currently hanging out on the first couple of pages of this forum made me realize how important tubeless/hookless safety education is. I thought something like this would be useful. And since the purpose was *safety*, I tended to err on the side of safety with my advice, within reason.

- I think that tubeless is a relatively young technology for the road. As such, lots of people who are having bad experiences are using it incorrectly. Running pressures too high, not being prepared with a tubeless repair kit on the road. In my opinion, it's not perfect, but I think it's better than running tubes. Never mind the performance metrics benefits (I don't care about that stuff), I just think it feels a lot better than riding tubed, and yes, even better than riding Tubolito or Aerothans, which I use in my Ritchey and which are excellent. And the fact that I have not had a ride-ending puncture in years, and only had to stop a couple of times in all those years to plug the hole or let the sealant do its job, is very valuable to me.

- I started riding tubeless around 2015-16. I noticed a difference in ride quality right away, to the point where I didn't want to get off my bike (what else is new, but you know what I mean) that day because that novel feeling felt so darn good. Yes, tubes work and are fine and reliable; but I genuinely prefer the substantially improved (to my body at least!) feeling of tubeless, and so that's what I use, and that's what I recommend to folks rely on me to help them have the best bike riding experience possible.

Thanks to everyone for reading and for making some valuable suggestions. I am going to revamp this to be simpler, more reader friendly, and less ambiguous on the differences between hooked and hookless tubeless, within reason. I won't be updating this every time some wheel manufacturer or cycling organization moves the goalposts a couple of inches.

jimoots 03-05-2024 04:43 PM

The simple slide guide turned out to be not so simple.

fa63 03-05-2024 04:49 PM

Because there is no way to make that happen as things stand :)

I guess one could just say "follow all manufacturer recommendations" and leave it at that, which would get us back to exactly where we are today :help:

NHAero 03-05-2024 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark McM (Post 3359381)
That's actually the ISO maximum for that tire width on hooked rims (see table above). Interestingly, Zipp recommends 62 psi for the same rider, tire and inner rim width, if the rims have hooks.

Isn't that table for straight sided (aka hookless) rims?

RoosterCogset 03-05-2024 05:59 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark McM (Post 3359381)
That's actually the ISO maximum for that tire width on hooked rims (see table above). Interestingly, Zipp recommends 62 psi for the same rider, tire and inner rim width, if the rims have hooks.

Whatever happened to charts like this? From a couple years ago, but there seemed to be some sense in there being a 3-factor guide for Max inflation (rim width +tire width + rim type), . FYI, TSS = Hooklesss.

EB 03-05-2024 06:02 PM

I remember in 2018 I rode the Tahoe Trail 100 XC race at Northstar, and day before we did a pre-ride with Levi Leipheimer himself to acquaint ourselves with the start and finish of the track.

We stopped for a bit and Levi led a long lively discussion of tire pressure. People were comparing and debating 21 psi, 22 psi, 23, 24 psi and so on.

Then one cranky gentleman "explains" that he's been running his mountain bike tires for years at 60 psi AND EVERYTHING IS JUST FINE, THANK YOU VERY MUCH <oldmanyellsatcloud.gif>.

Just goes to show you that operator error even with mature technology is inevitable, and sometimes, insisted upon.

MikeD 03-05-2024 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baron Blubba (Post 3359425)
Sigh, I should have known this would cause another tubeless spitstorm.
[/I]

When I saw that photo without reading, my first thought was, "That poor bastard forgot to tighten his quick release and his wheel separated from his bike!"

Baron Blubba 03-05-2024 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeD (Post 3359477)
When I saw that photo without reading, my first thought was, "That poor bastard forgot to tighten his quick release and his wheel separated from his bike!"

Excuse me, we’re fighting about tubeless here. Save your QR disparagement for another thread.

Mark McM 03-05-2024 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NHAero (Post 3359462)
Isn't that table for straight sided (aka hookless) rims?

Yeah, sorry, another example of my fingers typing faster than my brain can think. The original post has been corrected.

reuben 03-06-2024 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baron Blubba (Post 3359425)
Sigh, I should have known this would cause another tubeless spitstorm.

Sadly, that was my first thought when I saw this thread. The internet is where good deeds are often punished, where experts abound, and a counterexample can be found to disprove anything.

reuben 03-06-2024 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baron Blubba (Post 3359504)
Excuse me, we’re fighting about tubeless here. Save your QR disparagement for another thread.

OK, that made me laugh, in a sad.sort of way. Well played, sir, well played. :hello:

oldpotatoe 03-06-2024 07:13 AM

So...I've been away for a while..somebody tell me again...why are manufacturers making hookless rims?
Better? Cheaper? More reliable? Faster? :confused:

Xrslug 03-06-2024 07:36 AM

For the engineering-minded here (not me) — one of the things about road tubeless on hookless rims that I’m wary of is the much smaller difference between optimum pressure and maximum permissible pressure for tubeless-specific tires as compared to clinchers. On a gravel bike (and definitely MTB), lower pressures are the norm, so this seems like less of an issue but preferable road PSI seems extremely close to maximum tubeless tire PSI.

So if I’m understanding what I’ve read (questionable), with clinchers intended for hooked rims, the ISO standard says the pressure limit (I’m assuming before tire blow off becomes a risk) is 1.5 times the maximum stated tire PSI, whereas for hookless-specific tires, *the pressure limit is 1.1 times* the maximum stated tire PSI. So if the max stated PSI for a hookless tire is 76 PSI, the ISO pressure limit before risk of tire blow off could easily be exceeded just using a slightly inaccurate floor pump.

More to the point — how does pressure in a tire work? I’m assuming that when we hit a square-edged hole that deforms the tire, the internal volume of the tire is momentarily decreased but the volume of air remains the same, leading to a spike in air pressure inside the tire. If that is correct, and the ISO pressure limit is only 1.1x, isn’t it likely to be routinely exceeded just by riding on rough roads?

gravelreformist 03-06-2024 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xrslug (Post 3359613)
For the engineering-minded here (not me) — one of the things about road tubeless on hookless rims that I’m wary of is the much smaller difference between optimum pressure and maximum permissible pressure for tubeless-specific tires as compared to clinchers.

If I’m understanding what I’ve read (questionable), with clinchers intended for hooked rims, the ISO standard says the pressure limit (I’m assuming before tire blow off becomes a risk) is 1.5 times the maximum stated tire PSI, whereas for hookless-specific tires, *the pressure limit is 1.1 times* the maximum stated tire PSI. So if the max stated PSI for a hookless tire is 76 PSI, the ISO pressure limit before risk of tire blow off could easily be exceeded just using a slightly inaccurate floor pump.

More to the point — how does pressure in a tire work? I’m assuming that when we hit a square-edged hole that deforms the tire, the internal volume of the tire is momentarily decreased but the volume of air remains the same, leading to a spike in air pressure inside the tire. If that is correct, and the ISO pressure limit is only 1.1x, isn’t it likely to be routinely exceeded just by riding on rough roads?

You've pretty well got it. Some manufacturers like Giant seem to indicate that they test their hookless tire/rim combinations to 150% - but it's not even clear with Giant whether that truly applies to hookless (this page is linked from their hookless info page - but nowhere on the page does it specify if the content applies to both hooked and hookless or not.)

The question of what happens when the tire is impacted seems still up for debate - at least on Internet forums. Giant does make the claim that an impact will cause a pressure spike, and I'm inclined to believe them and it seems to logically make sense.

The problem is that both the margin of safety is way too low and tire QC standards are way too lax. I've installed two sets of GP5000 tires on one set of rims - the "S TR" models required a bead jack and much sweat to install. The "AS" model went on so easily by hand that there is no way I'd ride that tire if I didn't have a hook and be riding them low pressure.

makoti 03-06-2024 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe (Post 3359605)
So...I've been away for a while..somebody tell me again...why are manufacturers making hookless rims?
Better? Cheaper? More reliable? Faster? :confused:

I'll take door #2, Bob. Cheaper

fa63 03-06-2024 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xrslug (Post 3359613)
More to the point — how does pressure in a tire work? I’m assuming that when we hit a square-edged hole that deforms the tire, the internal volume of the tire is momentarily decreased but the volume of air remains the same, leading to a spike in air pressure inside the tire. If that is correct, and the ISO pressure limit is only 1.1x, isn’t it likely to be routinely exceeded just by riding on rough roads?

The volume is not really decreased per se; the tire deforms and the volume should stay the same. I imagine there might be a localized spike in pressure due to rate effects from a rapid impact.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:03 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.