Paint or no paint...old fork it ain't....

[Dr. Doofus]

Ok folks...


The doc needs a new fork. The Doofus the Doc has to tolerate, namely, me, had some steer tube cut off back last year, then raised the old saddle because the 79.5 from the fit just didn't feel as good as the ol 80.1...end result, he and I need about 8mm more steer tube. Thanks to the wonder of threadless forks, the Doc is fuming because now he has to shell out bucks because of my doofocity. Flippin the stem won't work, so don't even suggest it.

Question: Do we pay the extra 100.00 for the paintedtightywhitey fork, or just slap the back in black plain number on the CSi....

The Doc and I are trying to figure out if aesthetics are really worth 100.00 on an O2...and forget about getting another F2...I was payin shop slave then, and I'm not paying 700 bucks for a dang fork now.

How can I be so strong, yet so stooopid? It was better when we were handed crap to ride and we just rode it....

[Ozz]

Paint it.

Carbon black won't look right on a CSI

What size is your head tube (1" or 1.125")?

[Dr. Doofus]

1 and 1/8


Carbon on a lugged frame...yep...we know...then again the Doc and I are kind of broke, bike-wise, because I bought this house and his wife got us this dog, and well...that hundred bucks looks pretty big right now, considering a 500.00 painted fork is 18% of one paycheck after taxes, anyway....

[Keith A]

Doc -- I know you said not to mention flipping the stem. But it seems like you could find a stem that would work for you since you only need 8mm. There are plenty of stems out there with a variety of rises and this would be cheaper than replacing the fork.

Just my 2¢

[Dr. Doofus]

Here's the problem with flippin or switchin. To lower the stem/bar junction by 1cm (to get some steer tube over the stem for reliability issues), you're talking about going from a -6 Ritchey stem to something like a +17.

Reach problem. No way you're going to hit the exact same height/reach point with this solution...and no way the Doc and I are riding two different bikes with two different setups. We are picky and have a blown out disk that doesn't give me and him any problems unless I go yutzin around with things like riding one bike one with one setup and one with another -- been there, done that...non starter.

[Climb01742]

i'd ride the cheaper solution until you can afford the more elegant solution. riding seems more important than how the darn thing looks. just close your eyes while riding so the sight of carbon next to lugs won't offend you. that'll work. :p

[Ozz]

how about used steel? This actually looks pretty good:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3659555603&category=56196

Or this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3659730571&category=56195

Seven wound up on Serotta, may be a problem however

Or, you can build your own:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3659797349&category=56197

Ebay might be the way to go. I'd feel pretty good about using a used steel fork, not so good about used carbon.

just some thoughts....good luck!

[NateM]

I have also gone through the cut and wish I hadnt scenario with an expensive carbon fork. The end result was a riser stem which acts as a constant reminder "to not cut so quickly". Do you need a spacer on top of your stem? Why? You can use a threaded insert that is bonded inside the fork steerer tube for added safety if crushing your steerer is your concern.(Ame now True Temper used this system) Have a custom stem made for your setup. This would be a lot cheaper than a new fork and what to do with the old one. Just my 3 cents on how to save a little. Nate