OT: Rock climbing

[LegendRider]

Any climbers around here? I used to be an intermediate rock climber before getting into riding. I could lead moderate routes with traditional gear and I enjoyed bouldering. When the sport climbing craze took off in the 80’s my interest waned (probably because I couldn’t do the incredibly difficult moves on rap-bolted routes!).

I’ve lost touch with the sport, though I did know that the standards have been going through the roof. I knew only a few people who could climb one pitch of 5.12 and now I hear that it’s incredibly common. Grade inflation???

Anyway, I saw this 60 Minutes piece and even if you’re not a climber, you’ll be blown away with what this guy does. I believe the link is to the transcript – make sure to watch the video.

http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2011/10/02/60minutes/main20114487.shtml

[xjoex]

Climbing's difficulty has always been hard to convey on film. Those handholds look huge on tv. Its hard to grasp how hard it is to hold on to.

But that dude has skills! Also he is wired differently, I can't get away from that fear. Which is why I ultimately switched to just bouldering.

Anyhow here is a cool climbing picture that I took, cause a thread needs pictures.
http://gallery.photo.net/photo/1901004-lg.jpg

-Joe

[onsight512]

Any climbers around here? I used to be an intermediate rock climber before getting into riding. I could lead moderate routes with traditional gear and I enjoyed bouldering. When the sport climbing craze took off in the 80’s my interest waned (probably because I couldn’t do the incredible difficult moves on rap-bolted routes!).

I’ve lost touch with the sport, though I did know that the standards have been going through the roof. I knew only a few people who could climb one pitch of 5.12 and now I hear that it’s incredibly common. Grade inflation???

Anyway, I saw this 60 Minutes piece and even if you’re not a climber, you’ll be blown away with what this guy does. I believe the link is to the transcript – make sure to watch the video.

http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2011/10/02/60minutes/main20114487.shtml


I saw that clip on Sunday night. I thought that it was done pretty well, from a climber's perspective. Not the usual sensationalization that often accompanies pieces like that.

I used to climb quite a lot. It seems like a lifetime ago. House, marriage, two kids. Not much climbing anymore, but I am looking forward to passing it on to my kids when they're a bit older.

<edit> I just realized, from my username, just how long it's been. Can't imagine how I used to do that.

[Dave B]

I used to teach it in college and after before I became a teacher. I think the most I ever accomplished was like 5.10b and I was incredibly proud of that.

I will admit I climbed things I shouldn't and fell pretty lucky that I didn't fall (think free climbed).

Funny thing is that I am pretty afraid of heights and that is why I took it up to get over the fear of it. Can't say i am completely surprised folks have pushed limits, but I suppose people always want to be the first or greatest at something. Me...well I no longer climb, but I am young and can always begin to think about it when the kids show interest.

Cool stuff though.

[JMerring]

that is crazy (in a good way). i could never do that; my hands are - very - clammy from just watching it. literally.

[d.vader123]

Rock climbing is awesome!!! One could make a trip where you ride your bike to a site and climb rocks for the day.

[TimmyB]

Pretty recently I have started to get into climbing... I am still very much a beginner but it sure is fun! And a good way to keep the core strength up for cycling... Looking forward to a trip to Bishop later this month...!

[forrestw]

No it's not grade (actually class) inflation. My best tick so far is .11c on toprope. I've successfully climbed .10 on lead.

For the areas where I've climbed (MA, NH, NY(gunks), CA) climb ratings are fairly consistent, neglecting that there are some sandbaggers out there. Rock gym grades are another matter. Gyms in Boston seem to grade accurately for the most part but when I was in San Francisco last winter I found the grades way soft i.e. ticking '.11' rated routes with relative ease. Also what people call Class 4 in the high Sierra tends to break into 5th class.

A friend of mine set one of the first .12s in NH (Heather) He still climbs hard and I've seen him climbing .12 and working on .13. 5.13 is way freaking harder, as are .14/.15 which I've only seen people doing on film.

[DRietz]

I don't "rock climb" in its purest sense, as most of what I do just goes on in a gym. I like bouldering, but when in the gym I lead climb as well.

I've done some outside bouldering in the desert of Fruita/Moab, and I've climbed Half Dome's "Snake Dike" route (the easiest of all the routes on the face...). That's all for me.

[FGC]

I think that was a little bit sensationalized. The reporter's reactions seemed like she thought the whole thing was crazy. That's not reporting; that's editorializing. That's also what sells the 24 hour news cycle.

That said, it's definitely not for me. I like placing a lot of protection in case I whip off, because sometimes I whip off.

I don't think he's crazy. He's on the far edge of the bell curve. There are no brave, living mountaineers. He sounds like he's got his game down and he's very calculated.

[gasman]

I started climbing in 1970 in the Bay Area. Went to Yosemite and J-tree a lot and thought I was pretty good because I could lead 5.10. I still climb a few days a year for fun and now I can get up-----5.10's. No better than I was but what was considered pretty hard (5.10)is now moderate.It's just the natural progression of any sport. Joe average here.

I watch people doing laps on 5.11's that I can barely toprope on a good day. Now that 5.15 is getting well established I am happy to climb. I still enjoy a classic 5.6-5.9 and am just as happy doing those climbs with a good friend as anything harder.

Dvader123-Any hard ride to a climbing area shoots hard climbing for the day for me.

[jvp]

I'm sure all of the soloing Alex was doing in that piece on 60 min. was well within his technical ability level. Very few soloists will climb a route not knowing if they can do the moves or not, kind of like a good lawyer not asking questions he doesn't already know the answers to. I thought maybe he would be asked about his impressions of John Bacher, an amazing climber and free soloist in the 80s and 90s, who fell to his death recently (in his 40s) on a relatively "easy" route.
Probably the most impressive solo in that piece was his solo of the Pheonix crack in yosemite, a 5.13 only one pitch long. 5.13 is hard!

[thinpin]

Used to do a lot in UK and Europe and it kind of faded away when I moved here to AUZ. Funny thing is, mind is wandering back to it again...

[Acotts]

I saw that clip on Sunday night. I thought that it was done pretty well, from a climber's perspective. Not the usual sensationalization that often accompanies pieces like that.

I used to climb quite a lot. It seems like a lifetime ago. House, marriage, two kids. Not much climbing anymore, but I am looking forward to passing it on to my kids when they're a bit older.

<edit> I just realized, from my username, just how long it's been. Can't imagine how I used to do that.

damn, judging by your username, I am impressed.

Right before I started Grad School on weekends, I was getting into climbing. I really liked it.

I mostly hung around the 5.10 range. I am pretty strong from doing a ton of pullups and MTBing but I dont have the hand strength to really do anything harder.

I just started learning to lead. Holy crap that is scary. And of course, all the worst bolts are located at the sketchiest places.

If I do one lead climb, I am done for the day and my body is so tense that I just blow myself up.

I really miss it. I wish I had time again.

[verticaldoug]

Outside also has a piece on him this month. He is the flavor of the month.
Not unlike Dean Potter in early 2000's. I'm curious what YOSAR has to say about all of this.

http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/rock-climbing/No-Strings-Attached.html

I was thinking of a piece from John Long many years ago when John Bachar convinced him to give free solo a try. He was on intersection rock and became stuck at the crux. His adrenaline rush got him through after a brief moment of seeing a montage of black images. I think that was the end of his desire to free solo.

At my age, I prefer to just follow Peter Croft's example and link up high traverses.

[itsflantastic]

i'm a climber, though, nothing near this. I topped out around a 5.12 a few years ago and stick mostly to top roping with a few lead climbs here and there.

this guy is unbelievable. i love the shot of him whistling to himself.
the crux of that climb was crazy.

[d_man16]

Yes, Skilled very skilled....He's caught a lot of guff from fellow climbers over the last two years or so. I've seen him in a couple of flicks doing some just down right incredible things. But, I'd have to say that at times he may teeter a little close to the raged edge for me.

But he like myself are doing the things we love so I have to give him props for that.

And the guy can pinch a pull up on a set of 4"X4"'s incredible.

If you'd like to see a really nicely skilled guy climb check out David Graham In Amazing Small Things (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhWaJPEoJzQ)

~D

[mickeyc7]

My 16 year old son took up rock climbing a couple years ago and is amazingly good at it...he has no fear. He is routinely climbing 5.12, 5.13.
He has tremendous forearm and overall strength...can bench press 225 for several reps and only weighs about 180.
He climbs with guys who have much more experience and they can't believe some of the moves he makes.
Just his talent; I guess. Wish he was as accomplished as a student...

[LegendRider]

The best I could do was top-rope some .10s and lead some .9s. But, I did play hacky sack with Ron Kauk once.

[gasman]

Holy Crap !! I just watched the video (no access at work) He did the Direct North Face rated at 5.12a.!! I can't even imagine. I've met a ton of climbers over the years John Long, John Yablonski, John Bachar, Warner Braun, etc. There is almost nobody that could repeat what Alex did-maybe Dean Potter.
Dangerous sport-there have been a lot of free-soloists killed over the years. One died on Sentinel Rock on an easier route than Alex did in an 1.5 hrs, Bachar died a few years ago at age 52.
Hard to imagine where the sport will go in the future.

[Peter B]

I had a teacher in 7th grade who got a group of us out bouldering back in the 70's. I was immediately hooked. After high school when I had some money I bought enough gear to do multi-pitch routes with a partner. Best I remember was leading .10d and being gripped on the crux moves. Nothing like attention focused to a pinpoint. I haven't been on the rock seriously in years.

Here's a link to an incredible youtube vid (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ADOK6LD70w). Dan Osman was something else. Bear's Reach is a basic 5.7. Perspective comes when the camera pans out at 0:50. Doing the crux move a couple hundred feet off the deck free solo at the speed he's moving raises the bar several orders of magnitude.

[gasman]

I had a teacher in 7th grade who got a group of us out bouldering back in the 70's. I was immediately hooked. After high school when I had some money I bought enough gear to do multi-pitch routes with a partner. Best I remember was leading .10d and being gripped on the crux moves. Nothing like attention focused to a pinpoint. I haven't been on the rock seriously in years.

Here's a link to an incredible youtube vid (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ADOK6LD70w). Dan Osman was something else. Bear's Reach is a basic 5.7. Perspective comes when the camera pans out at 0:50. Doing the crux move a couple hundred feet off the deck free solo at the speed he's moving raises the bar several orders of magnitude.


Yep that's a pretty amazing video of one of my favorite 5.7 climbs. Of course Dan died also several years ago.

I agree about focusing your attention. Nothing else in the world exists except that few feet of rock in your face and your mind is clear. Which is why I still climb.

[Peter B]

Yep that's a pretty amazing video of one of my favorite 5.7 climbs. Of course Dan died also several years ago.

I agree about focusing your attention. Nothing else in the world exists except that few feet of rock in your face and your mind is clear. Which is why I still climb.


John Bachar was another amazing free soloist.

Life at the sharp end of the rope.

[gasman]

John Bachar was another amazing free soloist.

Life at the sharp end of the rope.

Yea, he passed me on a climb called Bearded Cabbage-after I had fallen about 5 times on lead he climbs up onto the belay spot and we talk a minute. He was calm, composed and hadn't even broken a sweat.

[Peter B]

Yea, he passed me on a climb called Bearded Cabbage-after I had fallen about 5 times on lead he climbs up onto the belay spot and we talk a minute. He was calm, composed and hadn't even broken a sweat.


And free right?

[gasman]

And free right?

He was free-soloing, I was well tied in. Shoot I tested that bolt at the crux 5 times-it was really good and he just waltzed pass it.

[soulspinner]

I had to turn off 60 minutes. That guy scared me. He is so calm................

[jvp]

I started climbing in 1980, mostly at Moore's Wall, NC. It will be looking like this in a month or so:
http://0friction.com/pix_28/zero_friction_pic_3887.jpg
Moore's is mostly trad climbing, we would routinely do the 10s and 11s there. 12s and harder tend to be mixed trad w/ some fixed gear, or all sport. Here I am in '89 on "quaker state" 11a:
http://www.mountainproject.com/images/92/36/106379236_medium_3ef011.jpg
Around '96 or so I took up bouldering and pretty much retired my harness. This is "howie's roof" at Moore's, I'm on an unnamed v4/5, getting the standard carolina spot. Probably 10 years ago or so.
http://0friction.com/pix_16/zero_friction_pic_2153.jpg

This is "orange crush" v6, it is on some boulders we found at the north end of moore's. Maybe 6 years ago?
http://0friction.com/pix_92/zero_friction_pic_12478.jpg

I still get out bouldering, and route set at the "Triangle Rock Club" in Morrisville, NC. But not at the same level as before! (I'm 52 now).

[MattTuck]

I didn't see a previous thread for "Free Solo" on here, and this one seems like the right place to give the heads up, since the original post was about another climb that Alex Honnold did 8 years ago.

This time, he's taking on El Capitan in Yosemite.

"Free Solo" is airing tonight at 9pm on Nat Geo.

[pdmtong]

I didn't see a previous thread for "Free Solo" on here, and this one seems like the right place to give the heads up, since the original post was about another climb that Alex Honnold did 8 years ago.

This time, he's taking on El Capitan in Yosemite.

"Free Solo" is airing tonight at 9pm on Nat Geo.

Matt, thanks for that. i saw it in the theatre when it came out. It's mind-blowing. And now I will watch it again at home.

Physically and mentally off the chart. He got into UC Berkeley - so no academic slouch either.

This is also fun to watch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7qSiEKntQA

This Tedtalk is also great
https://www.ted.com/talks/alex_honnold_how_i_climbed_a_3_000_foot_vertical_c liff_without_ropes?language=en

We scored the permits last summer to do the day hike up to the top of half dome - that's about the best I can do as a non-climber. In the old days you could camp at the top (which I did). pretty great when the sun comes up.

[fiamme red]

I didn't see a previous thread for "Free Solo" on here, and this one seems like the right place to give the heads up, since the original post was about another climb that Alex Honnold did 8 years ago.

This time, he's taking on El Capitan in Yosemite.

"Free Solo" is airing tonight at 9pm on Nat Geo.Thanks for the notice. That was an amazing movie.

NYT op-ed: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/10/25/opinion/alex-honnold-free-solo-movie.html.

[weaponsgrade]

Ive been obsessed with this Alex guy ever since freesolo came out. Like most people, my hands were sweating for the better part of the film. It's definitely worth seeing on the big screen. I've done some top roping in the past but that's about it. My last few trips to Yosemite have been limited to Tuolumne as the valley can be a zoo. But I'm inspired now to see the valley again. I just came across a report that one of the cameraman died:

https://www.indiewire.com/2019/03/andrew-berends-documentary-director-free-solo-tribute-1202048440/

[MattTuck]

I have it recorded on the DVR, I watched it live up until he was starting Hollow Flake, then had to go to bed. Took me a good hour to fall asleep, I should have just kept watching. :eek:

I think it was in the film, but the first party to climb that route took like 48 days. Took him ~4 hrs. That is nuts.

Not sure there is another achievement that fuses the physical and mental excellence of that climb.

The film, if anything, understates the level of preparation and practice that went into it.