Ride Report: Swiss Alps part 1

[Karin Kirk]

I just got back from a cycling trip in the Swiss Alps so it’s time to share photos and stories!

This was a relatively short, 1 week trip that was wedged between work commitments. The plan was to do 3 rides in the Swiss Alps, with a day or two at my Mom’s place in nearby southern Germany before and after the Alps trip.

The cast of characters included fellow forumite George, a cycling pal and Swiss tour guide extraordinaire; Megan, a Bozeman teammate, world traveler and all-around awesome cyclist; and my Mom, a happy traveler who is always up for an adventure of any kind.

I have ridden in the Swiss Alps once before, 3 years ago with George. At the end of that trip I was certain I’d be back for more. (Read about that trip (http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=50794) in an old thread.) One key difference on this trip was that I had my own Kirk bike that Dave had retrofitted with couplers for easy travel. This bike fits me perfectly, has Terraplane stays and is a whopping 4 pounds lighter than the old bike I had been using on my trips to Europe. So I was especially looking forward to piloting a worthy bike on the alpine roads.

Day 1 – Poor weather at the Santis.

We delayed our departure for Switzerland by one day due to widespread pouring rain. We kept ourselves happily busy in Germany visiting the Mainau gardens, a huge public garden that has a great way of filling up an entire day. The following day we took the ferry across the Bodensee under clearing skies. The forecast called for possible showers and we hoped we’d luck out once we arrived at our ride location.

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/ferry-300x287.jpg
Ferry ride across the Bodensee.

We met George at the train station and even though the skies were generally clear on the trip there, it started sprinkling pretty much right when we disembarked from the train. So we decided to have lunch and watch the weather. Lunch was tasty, but sadly the rain increased and we had a steady drizzle by the time we were done. It was chilly (in the 40s) and while the idea of riding up to the Santis in the cold rain seemed like an OK prospect, the thought of negotiating wet roads and twisty descents while freezing cold seemed like asking for trouble.

As a consolation prize, we decide to drive the loop that we had planned to ride. The route included one big climb and two smaller ones, threading through small alpine villages and farm country. The big climb took us up to the base of the Santis, an impressive mountain face with a cool cable car ascending to a weather observatory and communications tower on top. After visiting here last spring, I realized this would be a super fun ride location. But today, upon arriving at the Santis, the rain switched to part snow with cold, slushy drops sealing the deal that a ride that day would not be possible. What to do? Even though we had just finished a big lunch, some espresso and cakes seemed like a good choice.

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Santis_snow-300x225.jpg
Yup, this weather stinks.

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/cakes-300x273.jpg
So let's eat cake!

To be continued in the next post...

[Karin Kirk]

After stuffing ourselves with cakes, we proceeded on our drive around the ride route. The valleys were brilliantly green after a rainy summer in the Alps. The villages were perfectly cute with everything tidy and well-tended. The adorable Swiss cows dotted the pastures and their bells created the perfect musical accompaniment to the peaceful landscape. I do love Switzerland!

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/green-300x186.jpg


It was a lovely drive. But I’d be lying if I didn’t report that I was hugely disappointed. This is one trouble with planning a complicated cycling trip; it doesn’t take much to knock the carefully-laid plan off-kilter.

Day 2 – Klausenpass

We awoke to grey skies and an impressive covering of fresh snow on the mountains. The forecast called for clearing weather and plan for the day was to ride the Klausenpass. This was the road I most wanted to do and I was really, really hoping the weather would cooperate. As we drove over a minor pass to the adjacent valley, we were greeted with one of the happiest sights I’ve ever seen – clearing skies and some emerging patches of blue. Hooray!

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/skies_clearing-300x237.jpg
Twin Serottas on top of George's car. His wife was kind enough to lend Megan her Legend Ti.

We got ourselves situated in the highly pleasant town of Linthal, at the base of the climb. The sky was bright, the roads were still wet but drying nicely and the snowy mountains were beckoning. Spirits were very high as we prepared for the climb. The disappointment from the previous day melted away and I had that “all is right with the world” feeling as we pedaled off.

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/ready_to_ride-300x262.jpg

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/leaving_linthal-300x210.jpg

The climb began immediately and was beautiful right from the start. No more than 1k into the climb the road surface turned to cobblestone. While the cobbles had us thinking we were the stars of the next epic Rapha video, I’m thinking, “Cobblestones, really? Nothing I’ve read about this climb ever mentioned this!” Luckily the cobblestone sections lasted only for the first few switchbacks and smooth asphalt followed. Next we got to a long tunnel, which seemed somehow disorienting until I realized that the road was actually pretty steep, but you couldn’t sense that without a horizon. Interesting.

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/lower_klausen_road-300x194.jpg
You can see the switchbacks if you look close.

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/cobbles_climb-286x300.jpg
Total bliss!

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/George_Karin_klausen-300x225.jpg
George and I enjoying the lower slopes of the climb.

The climb is broken into two sections. The lower portion has lots of switchbacks and ascends through forests and pastures with promising views of snowy Alps at every turn. The riding was not difficult and the whole experience was fun and lighthearted. After about 9 km of that, we emerged in an upper valley that was fairly flat and offered a nice place to regroup. Only then could you see the crux of the climb which, I have to say, looked pretty improbable as the road twisted its way through a high alpine landscape and lots of snow. But it was an exciting sight because this is exactly what we’d come for!

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/klausen_map-300x225.jpg
See that twisty part there? That's where it will get interesting!

The ride up that upper section was one of those experiences I’ll never forget. The combination of the huge alpine features, the wonderful road, the brilliant weather, the perfect Swiss-ness of it… all experienced while riding a bicycle. What could be better! I felt energized all the way up the climb. We climbed at a pace that allowed for some conversation and as much picture taking as we could manage without stopping too much. The top of the climb arrived a little too soon – I was having so much fun and I felt like I could have gone on all day.

[Karin Kirk]

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/klausen_alpine_wow-300x225.jpg
The coolest stretch of road, ever?

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Klausen_Megan-300x225.jpg

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/megan_climbs-279x300.jpg
Megan rocks! What a solid rider she is!

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/top_klausen-300x225.jpg
Happy! (but OK, a bit chilly)

http://www.kirkframeworks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Kirk_klausen-239x300.jpg
A bike in its proper element. Thank you Dave for making me a travel bike! :)

[Karin Kirk]

After some cappuccino and baked treats at the top (how civilized!). We readied ourselves for a cold ride down. We piled on all the layers we’d stripped off on the way up and raced down the switchbacks. Alpine descents have never been my favorite thing but maybe some practice or having a nicer bike helped because on this road I couldn’t help but let out a whoop each time I got that slingshot feeling riding around a switchback.

In no time we were down from the cold upper slopes and were back in the land of cows and green pastures. Descending through the long tunnel was really weird and disorienting. We also learned that there was no such thing as a smooth line through the cobblestones. And on a section of rough construction, George proved that a flat tire was inevitable.

Riding back through the village of Linthal, we had that jubilant feeling of a successful adventure. What a perfect climb that was!

http://www.climbbybike.com/profile_520/Klausen_Pass_Linthal_profile.jpg

Climb statistics: 23 km, 1300 meters (4264 feet) of climbing

Klausenpass description: http://www.climbbybike.com/climb.asp?Col=Klausen-Pass&qryMountainID=5398

Stay tuned for part 2 of the trip report in a day or two! There are larger versions of the photos on our blog. The cakes look especially tasty when viewed full-scale. :p

thanks for reading!
Karin

[Steve in SLO]

Great write-up, Karin! Beautiful pictures of a beautiful country.
What sort of gearing did you run?

[sc53]

ENVY attack! What a great trip and trip report. Thanks always to George for being such a wonderful host to his American friends! Yeah that climb looked cold at the top--but you guys had your layers so were prepared.

[roguedog]

that looks like a great trip, karin. wow.

what were the stats of the climb? how'd the bike do? i assume that your old bike was also a kirk so how did the new one save ya 4lbs? :)

[tv_vt]

Thanks for posting, Karin! This is Pez or RKP worthy stuff :)

Good deal for George K, too - riding with two babes!

[Karin Kirk]

The travel Kirk has a compact crank (50 - 34) with a 26 in back. That was just right.

My previous Euro-bike is an old Serotta with an uncertain provenance. It is a version the old Davis Phinney model with (Dave thinks) a fork from a Slim Chance. We built it up with old and heavy parts, so it's pretty much a tank!

The climb stats are in the 4th post - but I will repeat the most impressive part: 4264 feet of climbing! (and descending).

And mad props to George - ever gracious and fun to spend time with! Megan became really fond of the Legend and began referring to it as her new bike. George said nuh-uh to that one. :no:

[old_fat_and_slow]

Great travelogue, but I wish you would post bigger pictures !

Looks like a great trip!

I have been to Switzerland many times, and it is always raining or snowing when I have been there. Always more gray days, than sunny. That's why everything is always so green there. However, I have never been there in July or August. Maybe they get a lot of sun then. :)

[old_fat_and_slow]

In post two, pic seven, I see Gothard riding in the left lane. Does that mean you guys had the road all to yourselves (i.e., no cars)? If so, very very cool.

[Karin Kirk]

Yeah, the road was really quiet. Doing it on a weekday helped, and it does not seem like a very busy road. I think it is even closed to cars on some days, so then you could really have your way.

Sorry the pics came out so small. They are linked from the ones on our blog, and there they are enlargeable.

[Gothard]

In post two, pic seven, I see Gothard riding in the left lane. Does that mean you guys had the road all to yourselves (i.e., no cars)? If so, very very cool.

No, no, no. When you overtake with a 20+ mph differential, you change lanes. :D

[Germany_chris]

If you cross the Bodensee again let me know I have a friend down there, we can do some grilling!

[soulspinner]

Wonderful................. :beer:

[AngryScientist]

great pics, looks like an excellent time was had, great looking travel bike! thanks for sharing. :beer:

[mudhead]

Nice trip, thanks for sharing

[Bud_E]

Thanks for the nice report. I love reading these ( since I'm not going anywhere soon ).

[HenryA]

Thanks for a GREAT report!

[gasman]

I am so jealous !!

Thanks for sharing the photos and report.

[Dekonick]

Looks like a fantastic trip. The Swiss Alps are special. I never had a bike when I visited... but one day perhaps...

:)

Thanks for the write up!

[BumbleBeeDave]

JEALOUSY.

:crap: :crap: :crap:

BBD

[Karin Kirk]

Geez, I didn't mean to make people jealous, sorry! But I do realize what a lucky situation I'm in with family in Europe, being married to a framebuilder and having awesome friends to ride with. Fortunate indeed!

If my jet lag is still in full swing tomorrow morning I will post the second ride report before work! :D

[tiretrax]

I bet your mind won't be on your work after you post those. Fantastic. I hope to do make a similar trip next summer.

[Louis]

Cool rides.

I would imagine that there aren't a whole lot of Terraplanes in Germany or Switzerland. Any questions from the local cyclists about it? They're probably even more surprised when you casually tell them "Yeah, my husband builds them..."

[parris]

Karin very cool trip and report! I'd asked Dave early this morning how the progress was coming along on your travel bike but your post answered that :) . It really is pretty cool that you're taking the time to post and as nice as the photos are they must pale in comparison to the real deal.

[thinpin]

Switzerland is beautiful in a manicured garden, wild backdrop kind of way. I spent many summers climbing and mountaineering there in all sorts of out of the way places. Makes me wish i had been still riding then. A missed opportunity I think.
Thanks for the lovely pictures and report.

[northbend]

I iove reading ride reports from far away places. Nice write up Karin

[Karin Kirk]

Cool rides.

I would imagine that there aren't a whole lot of Terraplanes in Germany or Switzerland. Any questions from the local cyclists about it? They're probably even more surprised when you casually tell them "Yeah, my husband builds them..."

I think George owns the bulk of the Terraplanes in Switzerland!
The local cyclists I've encountered (with the obvious exceptions of enlightened forumites like George and Joel) are riding mass market stuff. Cervelos, BMC and the like. Once I saw a Serotta and that jumped out as a rare thing.

On the other hand, there are tons of interesting bikes for the general populace, who ride bikes en masse. Things like commuter bikes, electric-assist bikes and all kinds of comfy setups that allow just about everyone to go out for a spin. I like that. :)

[slinkywizard]

On the other hand, there are tons of interesting bikes for the general populace, who ride bikes en masse. Things like commuter bikes, electric-assist bikes and all kinds of comfy setups that allow just about everyone to go out for a spin. I like that. :)

Those electric assist bikes kill me...A few weeks ago I was struggling to make it to the top of a moderate pass with my 39x25 gearing...and was smoked by an elderly couple on those e-flyers... :confused:

Interesting article on those here:

http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/08/28/travel/the-swiss-alps-on-an-electric-bicycle.html?src=dayp

[cnighbor1]

try <http://www.aukadia.net/alps/swa.htm>

[tuxbailey]

Very nice! Thank you for sharing.