Ultra Torque - is it all the same? Power Torque?

[veloduffer]

I'm looking to upgrade a Campy 10 speed to an 11-speed crankset. Is Ultra Torque for 2011 any different from UT in 2009/10? Is Super Record UT bottom bracket different or only compatible with Super Record crankset?

And what's the difference between UT and Power Torque?

Thanks in advance...John

[AngryScientist]

first off, a 10-sp crankset will work fine with an otherwise 11-sp drivetrain.

all UT is the same, as far as the bearings and bearing cups go, rings and spacing are slightly different, but not enough to effect performance in any perceivable way.

power torque is completely different and non-compatible with UT bearings and cups, different sized bearings. PT requires a puller just to remove cranks from bike.

[AngryScientist]

also SR bb cups will work with any UT crankset, but do not have the additional seal that the RECORD bb cups have.

[veloduffer]

also SR bb cups will work with any UT crankset, but do not have the additional seal that the RECORD bb cups have.

Is Campy assuming that Super Record bikes are only fair weather vehicles? :rolleyes: :p

Thanks for the info. I know the 10-spd vs 11 spd makes no difference, but I'm upgrading models too (the evil weight weenie in me is coming out). :bike:

Oh, do you have to unhook the "cotter" pin on the bb before removing the old crank?

[AngryScientist]

Is Campy assuming that Super Record bikes are only fair weather vehicles? :rolleyes: :p

Thanks for the info. I know the 10-spd vs 11 spd makes no difference, but I'm upgrading models too (the evil weight weenie in me is coming out). :bike:

Oh, do you have to unhook the "cotter" pin on the bb before removing the old crank?

yes you do.

and i understand the WW thing totally.

[oldpotatoe]

I'm looking to upgrade a Campy 10 speed to an 11-speed crankset. Is Ultra Torque for 2011 any different from UT in 2009/10? Is Super Record UT bottom bracket different or only compatible with Super Record crankset?

And what's the difference between UT and Power Torque?

Thanks in advance...John

UT is UT since 2009 for SuperRecord, Record and Chorus. SR cups lack a seal, I recommend using a Record cupset for SR cranks and NOT using a SR cupset for Record/Chorus cranks(altho you can mix SR and others).

PT has a longer crank spindle, a bearing on the cranks drive side ala UT but the LH bearing is installed into the cup rather than onto the spindle. LH crank arm secures to the spindle end ala shimano for PT. PT for Athena and below starting in 2011.

[rustychain]

SR cult bearings have outlasted my UT bearings by 10's of thousands of miles. Seals are not an issue with SR cult bearings on a roadbike. You don't need grease on them. Every 5000 miles I rinse the bearings with sewing machine oil recommended to me by a Campy factory mechanic.

[Ralph]

If not for the tools involved for crank removal, seems to me the PT is the better general design of the two.

I personally still ride square taper. It works with no problems at all.

[slowpoke]

Sorry for the necro, but I'm in the market for a new crankset and was wondering to go with PowerTorque or hunt down some NOS UltraTorque.

I'm curious if anyone else thinks PT is an improvement, or was it mainly done for cheaper manufacturing (i.e. no hirth joint).

Thanks!

[oldpotatoe]

I'm looking to upgrade a Campy 10 speed to an 11-speed crankset. Is Ultra Torque for 2011 any different from UT in 2009/10? Is Super Record UT bottom bracket different or only compatible with Super Record crankset?

And what's the difference between UT and Power Torque?

Thanks in advance...John

Ultra torque hasn't changed except for the titanium Ultratorque having a left threaded bolt.

SuperRecord cups have no seals, get the Record or Fulcrum ones, they have a seal and are completely compatible.

See

http://www.campagnolo.com

for a good review of PT and UT differences.

[oldpotatoe]

SR cult bearings have outlasted my UT bearings by 10's of thousands of miles. Seals are not an issue with SR cult bearings on a roadbike. You don't need grease on them. Every 5000 miles I rinse the bearings with sewing machine oil recommended to me by a Campy factory mechanic.

I recommend greasing all UT bearings well, SR included. Inside the shell, inside the cups, around the bearings. I have replaced more than a few SR UT bearings. I use Wheels manufacturing bearings which are sealed on both sides. Something Campagnolo bearings, are not. Pry the seal off, grease in there, seal back on, install.

Sewing machine oil? That will dribble out in a matter of hours but they are your cranks. Wonder if that's the same factory wrench that says loctite and hand tight for the cups.

[oldpotatoe]

Sorry for the necro, but I'm in the market for a new crankset and was wondering to go with PowerTorque or hunt down some NOS UltraTorque.

I'm curious if anyone else thinks PT is an improvement, or was it mainly done for cheaper manufacturing (i.e. no hirth joint).

Thanks!

No doubt is cheaper to make. Bearing on the RH side is the same bearing as UT. I haven't tried to get the bearing out of a LH cup yet but I'll guess with the Phil tool kit, I can. Still thin the UT is a better design, but that doesn't mean the PT is a poor design.

[slowpoke]

Thanks oldpotatoe. I've been been watching the installation / removal videos on YouTube (exciting!) and it seems like the main issue people have with Power Torque would be the extra hassle of removing the left crank arm with the puller.

It seems like the cup design is generally the same on both of them except that in PT, the NDS bearings are installed into the cup as opposed to pressed on the crank. --are there any differences in seals/protection from the elements?

[oldpotatoe]

Thanks oldpotatoe. I've been been watching the installation / removal videos on YouTube (exciting!) and it seems like the main issue people have with Power Torque would be the extra hassle of removing the left crank arm with the puller.

It seems like the cup design is generally the same on both of them except that in PT, the NDS bearings are installed into the cup as opposed to pressed on the crank. --are there any differences in seals/protection from the elements?

Probably not a big difference in sealing, if at all. I have installed a bunch of UT, not that many PT so don't have long term experience with the PT type.

[tlp]

I know the 10-spd vs 11 spd makes no difference, but I'm upgrading models too (the evil weight weenie in me is coming out).
Currently, Athena is the only 11 speed group that uses a PT crank. If it's a weight weenie thing, I'm assuming you'd go with Chorus or (S) Record - all of which are UT. Although I may be out of line, since you did say you were considering hunting down the UT version of a crank.

For what it's worth, because of the extra tool involved, my preference is to stick with UT cranks. I already have too many crank pullers in my toolbox.

[harryblack]

What's interesting to me PT versus UT Athena is the PT is listed as 100 grams lighter... Anyone believe that's correct and if so, why?

Usually I don't worry about such things but I did find that curious.

[oldpotatoe]

What's interesting to me PT versus UT Athena is the PT is listed as 100 grams lighter... Anyone believe that's correct and if so, why?

Usually I don't worry about such things but I did find that curious.

No bearing on the LH arm plus PT spindle probably weighs less than the PT spindle, just guessing. Guessing that the CR quality is probably less with PT Athena as well.

[slowpoke]

Probably not a big difference in [bearing] sealing, if at all. I have installed a bunch of UT, not that many PT so don't have long term experience with the PT type.

Thanks oldpotatoe!

So looks like the main detraction from PT is crank removal, and it's real benefits are cheaper manufacturing and slightly lighter weight.

If anyone has any other insights, please feel free to chime in!