Home made compression bars for S&S case?

[Nags&Ducs]

Anyone make their own with PVC pipes? If so, what is the exact length I should be cutting it to? I just can't allow myself to pay MSRP of $30 for 4 pieces of PVC and 8 plastic disks.

[steampunk]

go for it! sounds like an easy DIY project with bits from the hardware store.

[tiretrax]

probably between 9 and 9.5" if your case is 10" deep. it will depend on the thickness of what you use for the disk and the suitcase sides.

[LouDeeter]

You can also try square or round pieces of styrofoam. Taking into account the wheels, you should be able to make them relatively small to protect the frame.

[jeo99]

Why use the compression discs at all? IMO, hugh pain to use. Tried it twice after the Bilenky boys cut my 58 Atlanta. Got fustrated and quit. I have the 10" version case and have never had an issue. This after 12 years now averaging four flights a year including off shore to S.Korea, China, India, Germany, Italy, Austria and Holland.

:beer:

[jamesutiopia]

Why use the compression discs at all? IMO, hugh pain to use. Tried it twice after the Bilenky boys cut my 58 Atlanta. Got fustrated and quit. I have the 10" version case and have never had an issue. This after 12 years now averaging four flights a year including off shore to N.Korea, China, India, Germany, Italy, Austria and Holland.

:beer:
I have the opposite opinion, but then again I ride a 63cm bike. Mine travels every week and I manage to destroy an S&S case each year. I go through cases, but now that my S&S bike is Ti the frame is always OK.

S&S compression members are extra long and cause the case to bulge in the middle, which is what keeps the hubs from banging into each other in transit. QR 100mm front + QR 130mm rear is very close to 10" (about 0.25in shy) when you consider total width (not just OLD), so the bulging of the case beyond it's 10" nominal width is what gives you space to pad the locknuts and protect the case (also allows you to protect your hubs from each other). The bulge makes the case a consumable item (they eventually crack in the center of top and bottom if the hinge doesn't get ripped out of the plastic first) but keeps your bicycle in good condition, which is far more important! :)

The PVC piece is exactly 260mm long and total height of end caps and PVC is just shy of 10.5". When I received the compression members I thought they were too long, but I eventually figured it out.

Have never been questioned on the case being bulged to >10", but in theory you are over the dimensional limit if you measure in the center...

[tiretrax]

[QUOTE=jamesutiopia]The PVC piece is exactly 260mm long and total height of end caps and PVC is just shy of 10.5". When I received the compression members I thought they were too long, but I eventually figured it out. QUOTE]

Do you think the extra width is the reason your cases keep breaking?

[jeo99]

[Do you think the extra width is the reason your cases keep breaking?[/QUOTE]

Exactly my thought. The bulge is the ware mark That I see on most S&S cases. A 63" seems big for that type of case. My Atlanta is 58 and just fits. Anyway, I put the wide hub/axle covers on the side of both wheels that touches the inside of the case. No need for the compression tubes. The axles don't come close to meeting and the tires are deflated just enough to keep them quite snug against the sides of the case.

:beer:

[gearguywb]

How do you get them in there? I was packing my bike yesterday, I put the front wheel inside the top of the hard case which would mean that you need to guid the case down onto the pvc pipes to get it closed. Seemed like a pita.....

[eddief]

first you drop the bottom disk somewhere into the bottom of the case. then you feed the tube through the bike stack into the bottom disk. this is with the front wheel sitting right on top of the whole stack. then you put the top disk on top of the compression tube on top of the front wheel. i do this with only 2 compression things. then you slowly bring down the top of the case and gingerly get the front wheel/tire to squeeze into the top of the case. say a prayer and get the latches latched. labor of love.


How do you get them in there? I was packing my bike yesterday, I put the front wheel inside the top of the hard case which would mean that you need to guid the case down onto the pvc pipes to get it closed. Seemed like a pita.....

[Karin Kirk]

How do you get them in there? I was packing my bike yesterday, I put the front wheel inside the top of the hard case which would mean that you need to guid the case down onto the pvc pipes to get it closed. Seemed like a pita.....

Yeah, that approach won't work. I first put the bottom of the compression members in (the bottom disc and the vertical tube) and then I lay the front wheel on top of that, threading the vertical tubes through the spokes. Once the front wheel is in place, I put the top caps on and then everything is set and I close the lid.

I also use the net, which seems essential to keep it all in place. Lastly, I put a note to TSA on the inside in case they open it and need guidance in closing it.

Happy packing!

[oldpotatoe]

Why use the compression discs at all? IMO, hugh pain to use. Tried it twice after the Bilenky boys cut my 58 Atlanta. Got fustrated and quit. I have the 10" version case and have never had an issue. This after 12 years now averaging four flights a year including off shore to N.Korea, China, India, Germany, Italy, Austria and Holland.

:beer:

North Korea?

[jeo99]

North Korea?

oopps, good catch! S. Korea!

[Stan Lee]

Hey Jeo99- have you ever had the width of your case questioned/measured? The reason I ask is I ride a 62cm and teach overseas so I travel with my bike all over as well- I have a 10" case but I have a friend with a 12" case and he said he's never been charged or questioned about the width. I agree that it is a tight fit and that 2 extra inches would make a huge difference.

Mark