DT Swiss 240s Mechanical Question / Help Needed

[TimmyB]

Infinite wisdom of the serotta boards:

I'm having issues with the rear hub on a 2010 reynolds dv46t ul wheelset. It is my understanding that the rear hub is a dt 240s.

The issue is the freehub locks up when the quick release is tightened on the rear wheel. While spinning the wheel in my hands, the freewheel seems to work fine (although still a little "tight"). Yet when I clamp down with the qr with the wheel in a bike the freewheel really tightens up. If I clamp hard enough the freewheel hardly spins at all.

FWIW I bought the wheels used off a friend a while ago and he replaced the freewheel (with a used one from a different guy) because he broke the original freewheel from overtightening the cassette iirc. He had pretty limited miles on the wheels and a crash ended my race season so I haven't even ridden these "race wheels" yet...

Thanks all in advance :beer: :beer:

[LesMiner]

Sounds like a spacer or washer is too thick or there is an extra one. The clamping presses the cassette against the hub body instead. Whatever was replaced in the freewheel is probably not right.

[oldpotatoe]

Infinite wisdom of the serotta boards:

I'm having issues with the rear hub on a 2010 reynolds dv46t ul wheelset. It is my understanding that the rear hub is a dt 240s.

The issue is the freehub locks up when the quick release is tightened on the rear wheel. While spinning the wheel in my hands, the freewheel seems to work fine (although still a little "tight"). Yet when I clamp down with the qr with the wheel in a bike the freewheel really tightens up. If I clamp hard enough the freewheel hardly spins at all.

FWIW I bought the wheels used off a friend a while ago and he replaced the freewheel (with a used one from a different guy) because he broke the original freewheel from overtightening the cassette iirc. He had pretty limited miles on the wheels and a crash ended my race season so I haven't even ridden these "race wheels" yet...

Thanks all in advance :beer: :beer:

I suspect the freehub body is wrong for the hub, or the axle end or perhaps the toothed ring in the base of the hub body....

[lhuerta]

These hubs are easily serviceable without tools (as long as you have a strong grip)...the endcap could be removed by hand and then the freehub easily pulls off exposing the internals (star ratchets, spacers, spring). There are only a few parts in there so it is hard to get this wrong. If your buddy installed the wrong endcap (Shimano and Campy freehubs use different endcaps) that will be an issue. Or if the spacers inside were not installed correctly then that could be anther issue. Take it apart and hopefully you will easily discover the issue.

Here is a easy instructional video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8ZQJS0IQM0

Good luck, lou

[spamjoshua]

Without a needed spacer between the inside of the freehub body and the cassette this will happen.

My understanding is that the DT240s need a spacer that is not included in a Shimano Cassette purchase, and is sometimes missed by the installing mechanic.

Joshua

[oldpotatoe]

Without a needed spacer between the inside of the freehub body and the cassette this will happen.

My understanding is that the DT240s need a spacer that is not included in a Shimano Cassette purchase, and is sometimes missed by the installing mechanic.

Joshua


?? Nothing inside the FH body ala mavic. shimano cassettes are plug and play on 240s freewhubs. I suspect this is a FH from a not 240 or 190 hub..340? perhaps.

[TimmyB]

Thanks for all the feedback guys, really appreciate it :beer: .

I wasn't able to pull the freehub body off by hand but will take it into the shop to try the axle clamp.

Is there any way to identify whether or not it is the correct freehub body?

[foo_fighter]

You can also use the old skewer and hex wrench method:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3xg0oQ01NY&feature=related

Or gently insert a taped(to prevent marring) flat head screwdriver in gap between the freehub and the hub body and slowly pry up until the endcap loosens.

[spamjoshua]

I had a 24O that needed me to add a spacer/washer before installing a 6600 cassette... As in: slide the washer on, and then the cassette. In this case, it sounds like clamping pressure meant the freehub did not spin, and the cassette has dug into the freehub splines.

I hope I am wholly wrong.

[oldpotatoe]

Thanks for all the feedback guys, really appreciate it :beer: .

I wasn't able to pull the freehub body off by hand but will take it into the shop to try the axle clamp.

Is there any way to identify whether or not it is the correct freehub body?

Should be aluminum, the 340 is steel.

Yes, shimano 10s cogsets use a 1mm spacer onto the freehub first, then the cogset but not using this would result in just a loose cogset. Sounds like the hub is seizing up when clamped into a frame with the QR, cogset on or not.

So, something is jamming the freehb down, into the hub shell or something, when secured with the QR.

[spamjoshua]

If that washer is missing, and the cassette is loose, and pedaling pressure drives it into the splines (sticking the cassette in a way making removal difficult, and pointing to an aluminum freehub) the result could be a previously loose cassette now lodged in a freehub body, in a way where clamping pressure is transmitted through the stuck cassette...

The toast then pops up, and you are done. :)

[TimmyB]

I should clarify, I have not even put a cassette on the freehub yet. The issues I am experiencing are sans cassette.

Thanks for all the additional responses. With 8hrs of class and way too much schoolwork/obligations I didn't get a chance to mess with it today. Hopefully my schedule tomorrow will be less hectic. I will post an update once I take it apart.

Thanks again all :beer:

[TimmyB]

OK! I successfully got the hub dissasembled using foo_fighter's method (thank you!!!!!!).

Question:

Is the silver spacer in the photo necessary (between hub flange and freehub)???
http://i51.tinypic.com/x1jds4.jpg

When I remove that spacer and install the hub without it, the drag entirely goes away and I have no issues with the freehub locking up in the dropouts.

Will riding without the spacer:

a). Make my bike/wheel/brain explode
b). Make the chainline messed up
c). Fix all my problems with this wheel, and give me more time to ride my bike(s) instead of worrying about this fancy wheelset I can't actually ride.

Thank you in advance :beer: :beer:

[TimmyB]

Still curious about the spacer ^^^ :beer: :beer: :beer:

[lhuerta]

Take the spacer out!! And make sure that whoever installed it in the first place is taken out back for a smack down (in other words, don't ever let them work on your bike again). It is painful to see that sort of unnecessary "retrofit" on such good equipment.

If you have been riding on that contraption then you will need to readjust your limit screws once you re-install the cassette. Your chainline should be fine.

Lou

[TimmyB]

Lou OK thanks for the info!

Haven't ridden the wheels yet so shouldn't need any adjustments.

Looking at page 7 of the Manual (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CDQQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dtswiss.com%2Fgetdoc%2F1219c0 b7-776d-46ea-8625-dedf5ec2de19%2FManual.aspx&ei=ItJ3TtWvJ6fWiAKj7YyBCw&usg=AFQjCNFGQKoQh2OuP65OAJBvri1Fmp1brQ&sig2=RFg55p6_SVXAphcjg30V1g), there looks like some sort of spacer for #6, which is why I wasn't sure if the spacer was needed or not...?

On a separate note, anybody know if I need to use dt special grease when overhauling the hub or will phil grease do the trick? or park tool grease? or phil tenacious oil? or triflow? I've always used phil tenacious oil on my other wheels...

[Chief]

I use sparingly white lithium grease. I think you probably need to use a light grease and not an oil.

[tuscanyswe]

How did that spacer end up there? Did someone not get there campy 11 speed to work on that body and decided to use a spacer or something?

[Hindmost]

The part number 6 in the manual is a seal. Should be thin and rubbery. I think it seats in the hub body.

[oldpotatoe]

OK! I successfully got the hub dissasembled using foo_fighter's method (thank you!!!!!!).

Question:

Is the silver spacer in the photo necessary (between hub flange and freehub)???
http://i51.tinypic.com/x1jds4.jpg

When I remove that spacer and install the hub without it, the drag entirely goes away and I have no issues with the freehub locking up in the dropouts.

Will riding without the spacer:

a). Make my bike/wheel/brain explode
b). Make the chainline messed up
c). Fix all my problems with this wheel, and give me more time to ride my bike(s) instead of worrying about this fancy wheelset I can't actually ride.

Thank you in advance :beer: :beer:

That spacer should not be there, take it out.

C)

I use Mobil One auto oil...doesn't get thick in the cold, fairly tenacious.

[TimmyB]

OK the spacer is removed (for good!).

Thank you all for the help!

I really, really appreciate it. :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: