'cross gearing

[thwart]

So I've decided to dip my toe into cyclocross a little bit this year. I have an older Specialized M4 aluminum 'cross bike with 9 spd XTR/Ultegra components I bought on the Forum a few yrs ago, with a 48/36 crank and 12-27 cassette.

I live less than a mile from the course that will be used for the Nationals for the next couple of yrs, just outside of Madison. It's fairly hilly, and I find myself looking for another gear or two, especially after doing a few faster laps... :rolleyes:

And yes, remounts are coming along very slowly. Ouch. :D

Anyway, what are folks using for gearing on hillier courses? Should I try a MTB style 11-30, or even 32? BTW, the RD is a longer cage XTR.

And should I just go ahead and remove that 48 chainwheel, since I never use it?

[Chance]

And should I just go ahead and remove that 48 chainwheel, since I never use it?
In general it’s not a great idea. Eliminating your big ring will occasionally force you into crossing the chain a lot in the small-small combination. Rather than eliminating the big ring have you thought about decreasing the size so it becomes more usable? And while you are at it maybe reduce the small ring from 36T to 34 or 33T (if on 110 bolt circle) in order to lower gearing as you are trying to do.

If your top gear is 48/12 now a 44/11 would be the same (still too high since you don’t use it). So if you switch to 11-XX cassette you can probably go with a much smaller big ring, maybe 40 to 42T. In any case keep the old rings for when you get faster.

[christian]

You should get a 44 big ring.

[redir]

I rode a 1x8 then a 1x9 for years. Mostly it was a 43x12/27. A single ring set up works fine for cross. I have a double now and the only time I use the 46 tooth big ring is on the road training for cross. Very rarely will I use it in an actual cross race.

A 12/27 should be fine for your gearing. MTB gears are not necessary for cross. If you need more than a 27 then you'd be better off getting off the bike and running the hill.

[thwart]

If you need more than a 27 then you'd be better off getting off the bike and running the hill.
Obviously you've never seen my dismount/remount... ;)

Yeah, yeah... I know, it'll get better...

[Gummee]

I can't seem to find my 44t ring, so I stuck the 46t back on.

We'll see how that works out.

M

[patrick8037]

I've been tempted myself to get an 11-32 cassette and longer cage derailleur. I ran 38x12-27 for most of last year, and will be running 46/38x12-27 this year. I'd love to have a smaller chainring, but that is the drawback of using a 130 BCD crank.

None of the races around here have a super steep climbing section, but for later in the race when I get super-zapped, having a lazy gear is nice.

[Bruce K]

I'm running a 1 X 10 set-up for the second year.

Front this year will be a 40 with last years 38 available for swapping in if the course is hillier or really muddy.

Cassettes will be 12-28 or 11-28 for faster courses. The 28 seems to be plenty for any hill we have around here that you would want to ride and it gets me through any sand pit that you could ride.

BK

[sailorboy]

what Bruce said...
here's a real-life example
I converted to single ring early into my 2nd full season of racing after I threw a chain early in the first lap of a fast cat 3 race while trying to quickly shift to the large ring in a rough section and I had nearly got the hole shot. Spent the next 30-40 seconds wrangling the chain back on, and watched most of the field go past. Ended up racing in anger through most of the field to a 5th place. So, dropped chain could've meant the difference in a podium finish most likely.

Just less complicated and less to go wrong. The times when you can even use a 44 or 46 are likely short downhills or paved sections or something and you won't be really mashing the pedals that hard on a chain that is at extreme cross position if you only have a 40 or 42. When you will stress the chain the most will be short, sharp climbs, and if you use the inner (single) ring the chain will be in a relatively straight line. And I agree, the hills that are steep enough to need a 34 or 36 on, you should probably run up anyhow.

just my experience anyhow.

[thwart]

Thanks for all the advice.

Given that I'm just getting started here, buying new chainrings may be a bit much.

Probably should just HTFU and run up that steepest hill... another chance to practice my remounts.

Hmmm... does anyone wear a cup for 'cross? :rolleyes: :D

[goonster]

Hmmm... does anyone wear a cup for 'cross? :rolleyes: :D
I'm wondering about this too.

What's the standard advice? Do you aim for one or the other inner thigh? Do you leap and then guide the bike a certain way.

The instructional vids I've watched spend all their time talking about the dismount, shouldering and pedal action, zero talk about remounts . . .

[Der_Kruscher]

If you need more than a 27 then you'd be better off getting off the bike and running the hill.

I hear this a lot and while it may be true for some, I don't think that it's true for everyone. I run a 39x11-32 and use the 32 surprisingly often in races. For reference I'm using this gearing in 3's/B's races and am generally at the right end of the race, somewhere in the top 20% - if you're planning on winning 1/2/A's races this gearing may not work for you. I'm not a great runner (understatement?) and it tends to wear me out faster and spikes my heart rate if I have to do it. I've ridden past many guys on ascents in my 32 and been able to stay fresher than if I had to run. If you're a spinner a really low gear can be a blessing in races with long climbs. Again, for me, I'm able to cruise by guys who are grinding out the long climbs in a 25 or 27. Remember, 'cross races are much, much slower than any road races you'll ever do. I'm also inclined to believe that gearing for cyclocross is much more personal than in road racing where you can make a lot of generalizations about what's "right" for a given course. Truth is, experimentation is the key to find what works for you. I wouldn't shy away from a 1x9 with an 11-32 if I were you but why not do a race or two on what you have so that you'll be making a choice informed by your own experience? Anyway, good luck and let us know how your season goes!

[redir]

Yeah absolutely, gearing like anything in cross is very personalized.

As for remounting, the saddle should hit the inner thigh first and then you slide the rest of the way on. To get the hang of it do it at a walking pace first. Walk along the left side of the bike when your left leg takes a stride and plants then lift your right leg and place the inner thigh on the saddle and slide onto the bike, clip in dismount and repeat. Find a nice long section of grass to practice this on and as the day goes on try it ever so faster and faster.

The one thing you DO NOT want to do is to jump up higher than your saddle and 'land' on it with your butt. That's a good way to sing soprano and possible ruin a saddle.

[fourflys]

re: gearing... I've raced a couple of races the last two years as a Cat4... while I might have started out in my 50t (50/34 crankset), I was quickly in my 34 for the rest of the race... you will be amazed at how fast the race starts and how quickly you get tired... of course, it all depends on your fitness, but jumping off the bike a couple times a lap tires you out rather quickly...

at my first race, I was fortunate enough to go to a clinic run by a pro... her biggest piece of advice on remounts was to get a rythem and practice it! when going for your remount, try and avoid stutter-stepping before you jump up... she said think of it as dancing... go with count in your head that corresponds to the steps you take, "one, two, three, remount"... it helps to start it really slow when practicing and eventually do it full speed... and yes, you land on the inner thigh and slide onto the saddle... and if you have a carbon post, you may want to reconsider... :eek:

good luck, it's great fun I just wish I lived closer to the series...

Chris