$75 for Cable replacement

[norcalbiker]

My LBS wants $75.00 for cable replacement labor. Cable is not included, just for labor. Is it steep or is it fair?

[crownjewelwl]

i get charged $90/hour for any kind of labor...

$75 sounds reasonable if your mechanic is good!

[GRAVELBIKE]

Are they simply replacing the inner wire? Are they replacing the housing and inner wire? Will they need to remove/replace bar tape?

[false_Aest]

pay up or do it yourself.

</thread>

[keevon]

Depends. How complex is the cabling? Does the frame have internal routing?

Remember, replacing cables involves more than just running new shift and brake cables. Old cables need to be removed, new cables installed and stretched, derailleurs need to be adjusted, brakes need to be adjusted, bar tape may need to be removed and re-installed or replaced, housing may need to be replaced, seals may need to be installed (if using a sealed system), etc. All that stuff takes time.

That said, replacing cables yourself is a good way to learn a lot more about your bike and how it works.

[Charles M]

Cables only, high.

Cables and housings and rewrap bars.... Fine.

[AngryScientist]

Cables only, high.

Cables and housings and rewrap bars.... Fine.

agreed.

[Lovetoclimb]

If there is internal cable routing that may complicate matters it may be good to use LBS. Otherwise I would agree with other posts suggesting you give it a try yourself. Worst case you have to take it to the LBS and they fine tune the incorrectly installed cables.

Over the past 2 months I have taught myself how to run cables and housing on my Campagnolo 11 gruppos and doubt there is anything more aggravating.

Good Luck if you go through with it.

[bike22]

Depends. How complex is the cabling? Does the frame have internal routing?

Remember, replacing cables involves more than just running new shift and brake cables. Old cables need to be removed, new cables installed and stretched, derailleurs need to be adjusted, brakes need to be adjusted, bar tape may need to be removed and re-installed or replaced, housing may need to be replaced, seals may need to be installed (if using a sealed system), etc. All that stuff takes time.

That said, replacing cables yourself is a good way to learn a lot more about your bike and how it works.
all. of. this.

[ultraman6970]

If you are paying to do the stuff you shouldn't complain.

[hockeybike]

Yikes. Judging from this my friends owe me $350 in beer for the past 6 months. Time to collect....

[norcalbiker]

Yikes. Judging from this my friends owe me $350 in beer for the past 6 months. Time to collect....

Cable only. No housing, no need to remove and replace bar tape. I could do the brake cable, but not the F&R Der. Don't know how to adjust them.

[keevon]

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

Seriously, this is how I learned to adjust derailleurs. Park Repair Help is *excellent*.

[maunahaole]

Learn. Seriously, it isn't hard, just takes a little practice. Be patient, read the instructions at the park tool website for the basics and start turning wrenches.

I can do it and I have ham hands.

Cable only. No housing, no need to remove and replace bar tape. I could do the brake cable, but not the F&R Der. Don't know how to adjust them.

[norcalbiker]

Learn. Seriously, it isn't hard, just takes a little practice. Be patient, read the instructions at the park tool website for the basics and start turning wrenches.

I can do it and I have ham hands.

I really should learn it. :crap:

[Derailer]

I recently learned how to do this stuff myself. Not only did I save a lot of money, but I found the project very rewarding.

[Gummee]

I really should learn it. :crap:
No time like the present to get it figgered out.

If you're not replacing housing, the job's MUCH easier. :nod

...speaking of which... if you're NOT replacing housing, why are you replacing the inner wire?

M

[palincss]

...speaking of which... if you're NOT replacing housing, why are you replacing the inner wire?


Cables fray and break. Some bike shops are recommending replacement of right hand STI shift cables every 1,000 miles. My LBS recommends replacement annually for a bike that only gets ridden a couple of thousand miles a year and twice annually for a bike that gets ridden over 4,000 miles a year.

My experience is all with bar end shifters, and there you can get quite sloppy about preventive replacement of cables, because when the cable starts to to it frays and the loose ends will poke you in the finger when you shift long before there's any real danger of the cable breaking. STI, on the other hand, gives you no warning. It just breaks.

Even worse, when the cable breaks with an STI shifter, the end can get caught up inside the shifter mechanism and jam the shifter. A friend of mine had to have her right STI unit replaced when the cable broke on the first day of Bike Virginia: nobody had time to try to mess around inside the brifter unit to find the lost cable end.

Housings, on the other hand, can last for years. Decades, even.

[GRAVELBIKE]

Cable only. No housing, no need to remove and replace bar tape. I could do the brake cable, but not the F&R Der. Don't know how to adjust them.

If the bike is already in decent working order, you won't have to do much in the way of adjustment.

The concept is the same as a brake cable. You may have to make some minor adjustments, but if everything was adjusted properly with the old cable, you won't be starting from scratch.

[bicycletricycle]

replacing inner wire and not housing is a little silly if you ask me.

[gdw]

A monkey could be taught to change cables if it had thumbs...it's that easy. Get one of Zinn's books or check out Park's website and teach yourself the basics. It takes 15 minutes or less on most bikes and you won't even get your hands dirty.

[Pete Serotta]

does it include cable lube, install (after taking off) on bike, adjust them and adjust again when they might stretch down the road. If an hour labor price is in the ball park. Cables are der and brake cables? and as Prez said rewrap bars and even are you using new bar tape?.

AS a self check "what price do you consider fair and list (mentally at least) what you think the things that will be needed to do it and total time.


My LBS wants $75.00 for cable replacement labor. Cable is not included, just for labor. Is it steep or is it fair?

[aoe]

did they explain why you need new cables and not housing as well? I'd agree with the earlier post that you might as well replace both unless there's a sound explanation otherwise.

replacing cables is the easiest and perhaps best way to start wrenching on your own bike....you'll learn how to adjust your fd, rd, and brakes in the process. go for it.

[kramnnim]

Some bike shops are recommending replacement of right hand STI shift cables every 1,000 miles.

Yikes, that would get annoying. Time for your monthly cable replacement!

[binxnyrwarrsoul]

Had a "lazy" moment. Bought front and rear D cables and brake cables and had the LBS do it. $120, A few other things were done gratis (I'm a (too) frequent customer), but, still. I have done my own ever since. I absolutely hate it, +1 on Campy being aggravating, but not more than dropping that kinda scratch. Can think of a billion other things I could spend that cash on.

[bfd]

Yikes, that would get annoying. Time for your monthly cable replacement!

What shop is recommending replacing Shimano STI cables at 1000 mile intervals?! I would seriously consider finding a new shop or better yet, DIY!

[binxnyrwarrsoul]

Something I do to make it a little easier is use the old cable housing lengths as a guide. Has made it a much quicker, less frustrating endeavor. Also, do not rush. Rushing=frayed cables (and nerves).

[Ozz]

I really should learn it. :crap:
I figured out how to do it last year and was really surprised how easy it was....go for it.

:beer:

[Ralph]

For all new cables, more than fair. They are probably figuring an hour labor. I doubt if many of you could completely replace cables (cut to correct length, etc), adjust derailleurs, lube BB cable guide (non grease), lube brake bolts, add new end caps to cable wire, clean around brake bolt holes, probably lube brake pivots, and wrap bars in that length of time. (you do all of that don't you?)

[thegunner]

For all new cables, more than fair. They are probably figuring an hour labor. I doubt if many of you could completely replace cables (cut to correct length, etc), adjust derailleurs, lube BB cable guide (non grease), lube brake bolts, add new end caps to cable wire, clean around brake bolt holes, probably lube brake pivots, and wrap bars in that length of time. (you do all of that don't you?)

you should have more faith in humanity. none of that is especially difficult :p nor is all of it necessary for a simple cable change

[Ken Robb]

I have my best cable-changing performances when I remember to rub beeswax on the cable before I cut it and then add some to the freshly cut end before I thread it into the housing because it helps prevent fraying strands.

[thinpin]

If you do go about yourself then dont scrimp on tools, get youself a proper cutter to trim your housing.

[thinpin]

Oh and try handlebra tape, wrap on, wrap off then wrap on again :beer: Pays for itself after the third cable/housing change!

[firerescuefin]

My LBS wants $75.00 for cable replacement labor. Cable is not included, just for labor. Is it steep or is it fair?

Done well...it doesn't seem unreasonable.

Haven't read the entire thread...Couple of questions.

How much is your time worth?

Do you need it done right now?...is your bike rideable...do you have another bike to ride while you do it/learn how to do it.

Do you imagine that you would enjoy working on your bike? Are you willing to to take your lumps while learning?

I really enjoy working on my bike.....many others...not so much.

[Gummee]

Once a year* is probably fine with replacing cables. Twice (once with housing) if you want to be anal.
In the 20+ years of riding I've done, I've not once had a cable break on me. YMMV

IF the shifting's not degraded to the point where you notice it save your $$ and do a good once-over in the fall.

M

*assuming you're not in the PNW or an all-weather commuter. Then I'd probably go 3-4x/year WITH housing at the same time.

[binxnyrwarrsoul]

+1If you do go about yourself then dont scrimp on tools, get youself a proper cutter to trim your housing.

[gone]

It's easy to say "do it yourself" (and, for the record, there is no bike maintenance or repair that I don't do myself including building my own wheels), some people just don't have either the time, the inclination or the mechanical ability to do it themselves. A friend of mine who is probably a stronger rider than most of the people reading this (multiple PBP's, BMB'S, etc) can't butter toast without help and takes his bike to the shop for everything. Before a long ride, he takes it in for a complete tune-up and has never had a mechanical DNF.

Personally, I'd feel a lot more secure if I could take care of things myself but it works for him and that's cool.

[maunahaole]

If you do go about yourself then dont scrimp on tools, get youself a proper cutter to trim your housing.


Proper means a FELCO. Just to be clear.

[biker72]

replacing inner wire and not housing is a little silly if you ask me.
+1
I've thought this for years.
Like changing the oil and not the filter on your car.

[pavel]

As someone who works in a bike shop, $75 is RIDICULOUSLY high to pay or charge for labor on a simple cable changes (unless your bike has internal routing with no guides or something.)

My shop does basic tune ups for $75 and up, for gods sake. I cant imagine charging more than 30 in labor to change cables... In fact for our favorite customers and bikes we'll even solder the cables for free.



Are we undercharging folks by that much???

[Fivethumbs]

I bought Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance, bought a few tools, and can strip my bike down to the bare frame and put it back together. I think most people should be able to do the same.

[biker72]

My LBS wants $75.00 for cable replacement labor. Cable is not included, just for labor. Is it steep or is it fair?

MY LBS charges $30 plus cables.
Just checked with service.

[Peter B]

Cable only. No housing, no need to remove and replace bar tape. I could do the brake cable, but not the F&R Der. Don't know how to adjust them.

Maybe it's time to learn (http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help)?

[firerescuefin]

I bought Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance, bought a few tools, and can strip my bike down to the bare frame and put it back together. I think most people should be able to do the same.


Ding Ding Ding Ding :beer:

Did exactly the same.

[Pete Serotta]

No reason for my type of riding for me to change every 1K. I have never seen that ofter.. If I feel or see a difference in shifting than I bring in for change. Otherwise every few years as overall maintenance, I change cable and housing. Chains usually get replace every 1500 or so miles.

. I do not commute, but I do keep clean, :bike:

PETE

[palincss]

What shop is recommending replacing Shimano STI cables at 1000 mile intervals?! I would seriously consider finding a new shop or better yet, DIY!

It was the bike shop in Poolesville, MD. A guy on a ride I was on broke his cable mid-ride and stopped in when he got to Poolesville to get it fixed, and that's what they told him.

[palincss]

In the 20+ years of riding I've done, I've not once had a cable break on me. YMMV


How much of that riding was done with STI? Several of my friends have had STI cables break on rides, some more than once.

[Gummee]

How much of that riding was done with STI? Several of my friends have had STI cables break on rides, some more than once.
Up until last year? Well... let's see... I started riding Ergos in about 95 or so and got STI the next year. Went from 8sp to 9sp and to 10sp STI, then switched most of my bikes to SRAM over last winter/spring.

M

[Bob Loblaw]

$75 seems steep to me.

Cables should last a lot more than 1,000 miles. I've never heard of them needing replacing that often. Maybe on a cyclocross bike that spends all its time under a sweat-heavy rider on sandy beaches during monsoon season.

I always replace both cables and housings at the same time; however, I have, for frugal customers, replaced only cables and had it come out working quite well.

Cables do break from time to time, even when relatively new and properly installed. File it under "shizzle happens." In the past three months, I've fixed three bikes with broken shifter cables, all Campy Record 10 (which I consider a coincidence), one was a Campy cable, one Rokon cable and one generic cable. All of them were less than a year old, and only one had been installed by me.

Replacing cables is definitely doable for a home mechanic with the time and inclination. There's plenty of good information out there to guide you through it the first time.

BL

[Dave B]

You might also see if a shop offers classes to teach you how to do stuff. You can look through their catalog of classes and learn from actual mechanics while building relationships.

A lot of folks do their own work and scoff at folks who can't don't. You know some folks just want to ride their bikes and let others worry about getting it right. I understand that.

At my old school I would have students bring in bikes after school with parents permission and help THEM fix problems. If you can learn some stuff, get good at it and help others. I know that sounds hokey, but you end up getting better at stuff when you are able to show others.

I taught myself out of general attitude towards one local shop and their attitude towards my need for help. Learning can be frustrating and if you eff it up expensive. However, the more you learn and practice the more you can save.

Just thoughts.

Prez

[roguedog]

Maybe i'm wrong but i think prices are geo dependent. Given that norcal is in your name i'm assuming your in well.. n. cal. and everything in california is more expensive than jsut about anywhere else in the states ('cept maybe HI and NYC) thanks to our high cost of living.

So.. that being said i checked a couple of sites for local shops and $75 does seem a bit high, given that most of these shops will do a basic tune up for that price.

http://www.paloaltobicycles.com/service/labor-offered/
http://www.roaringmousecycles.com/services/1
http://bicycleoutfitter.com/about/service-prices-pg65.htm

Bicycle Outfitter is the only site that has a detailed cost break down by service and based upon that, if I'm reading what they're charging and what you're looking to do correctly, $75 seems high.

Hope this helps.

[crankles]

norcal, if you are in the eastbay and just need wires, i'll do it for a six of negro modelo.

[kgbianchi]

I myself am one that enjoys working on bikes, I am certain that there are others that you may ride with that feel the same way. I am always willing to help someone out over a 6 pack and show them the ropes of bicycle basic maintenance. All that being said, I recommend talking among your friends that you ride with and you may find someone that would be willing to show you the ropes over a 6 pack as well.

Cheers!

[cat6]

norcal, if you are in the eastbay and just need wires, i'll do it for a six of negro modelo.

i was going to suggest asking around in your group or riding friends to see if any of them had experience running cables, and have them guide you on DIY after a ride, over a 6 pack. there ya have it, love connection!

if not, at the very least you could give it a shot yourself and head over to the LBS afterward with your head hung and some cash in hand, adjusting whatever you couldn't will likely be much less than $75. it doesn't hurt to try.

best of luck.

[jroden]

you need to own some cutters appropriate for housing and cables. I like to buy the complete shimano cable kits with all the housing, ends, etc, they work really nicely. I often skip replacing the part under the bar tape as it tends to stau pretty clean. i frequently replace only the end by the rear der. as it gets crap in it, esp on the cross and mtb bike, I use bulk housing for this and keep the cable.

There is no need not to do it yourself. Just replace the parts that are sticking or frayed, they will never break.

Replacing cables for no reason is kind of a waste of money, on bikes just replace worn parts and leave the rest alone, it's not like a car with a maintenance schedule. We ride in a rainy climate with salty roads during the winter, so our cables need more attention than yours, I suspect you could ride 5 years on a set of cables. Sometimes during cross season I replace the rear housing after 5 rides.

[rugbysecondrow]

Buy a recommended book and do it yourself if you have the time or inclination. If you screw up somehow, just take it in for a tune up which will run about 75 bucks.

When I was first learning how to do bike work, I would ask the shop if I could observe them working on my bike, they were happy to oblige. If for no other reason but for roadside repairs, it is good to know your way around the bike.

Best of luck!

[biker72]

A lot of bikeshops in my area give classes on bicycle repair.

[oldpotatoe]

My LBS wants $75.00 for cable replacement labor. Cable is not included, just for labor. Is it steep or is it fair?

IMHO, steep. I charge $20 plus parts if inner wires only. If housing, $30 for the labor, $10 to wrap the handlebars. Total of $40. Are ya sure it's not including cables and housing?

[soupless]

Here's the vid that finally made derailleur adjustment click for me. An English guy named Tony with a series of bike repair videos:




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkzvfCaIbyQ

[palincss]

Replacing cables for no reason is kind of a waste of money, on bikes just replace worn parts and leave the rest alone, it's not like a car with a maintenance schedule. We ride in a rainy climate with salty roads during the winter, so our cables need more attention than yours, I suspect you could ride 5 years on a set of cables. Sometimes during cross season I replace the rear housing after 5 rides.

The reason for replacing a shift cable before it breaks -- aside from avoiding getting stranded in the middle of a ride -- is that when the cable breaks in a STI unit the cable end inside the shifter unit has to go somewhere, and the where is down into the bowels of the shifter unit itself, where it jams the shifter. In a best case scenario, you take the brifter apart and get it out; in a worst case scenario you get to buy a new brifter unit, which will cost you close to $200. (That's not a fantasy, it's exactly what happened to a friend of mine on the first day of Bike Virginia this year.)

As for riding 5 years on a set of cables, that's not what seems to be happening around here. Right hand shift cables are breaking after only a year with < 4,000 miles on them. I have several friends this has happened to, and more than once for some. I've been on rides with them when their cables have broken.

I'd say if you could avoid that by replacing the cable, it would be money very well spent.

I've myself have had right hand shift cables on my bikes (bar end shifters in all cases) start to fray, which I discovered in the middle of a ride when the sharp frayed ends poked me in the finger. Generally this happens after around 5,000 miles of use.

[merlinmurph]

On a recent visit to my LBS, we were shooting the bull and I was looking at a new Trek Madone sitting on the floor (no interest in buying, just looking at it). I noticed that the der cables were internal and that set him off. He said in the past he'd install a new cable for free, but on these new Treks, it's a major PITA because you have to fish the cable out at the BB (?????). Please correct me on this, but I believe there is no routing inside the tubes - the cable just goes down the tube and out the BB. Ouch. And, I think he said the BB had to be removed to fish it out (?????). Again, please correct me if I'm spewin' garbage here.

Bottom line: It takes a lot longer for a simple cable replacement and he now has to charge a fair amount for something he did for free in the past.

[jimsantos]

norcal, if you are in the eastbay and just need wires, i'll do it for a six of negro modelo.

I can offer the same if you're in the South Bay, and would be glad to go over DR adjustments as well. Should take no more than 20-30 min altogether.


RE: internal routing without internal guides

Experienced this on my Klein Q Pro when I swapped out cables. The exit hole is just SLIGHTLY bigger than the cable and can be a total PITA to find. One cable I got really lucky with and hit it on the first couple tries, but the other took about 15-20 min of poking around. I've been told a strong magnet can be a great help, but haven't tried that method myself yet.

Also, be VERY careful that the cables don't cross or overlap INSIDE the downtube, as it can be hard to detect at first, but it'll totally mess with your shifting.

[crankles]

RE: internal routing without internal guides

Experienced this on my Klein Q Pro when I swapped out cables. The exit hole is just SLIGHTLY bigger than the cable and can be a total PITA to find. One cable I got really lucky with and hit it on the first couple tries, but the other took about 15-20 min of poking around. I've been told a strong magnet can be a great help, but haven't tried that method myself yet.


I too had a Q pro and yanked the cables while in a hurry before thinking. I got a this tip from another friend. Crazy glue about 3 inches of thread to the end of the cable. Slide the cable in one end and use a vacuum with a hose to suck the thread out at the other. worked like a charm.

[1centaur]

On a recent visit to my LBS, we were shooting the bull and I was looking at a new Trek Madone sitting on the floor (no interest in buying, just looking at it). I noticed that the der cables were internal and that set him off. He said in the past he'd install a new cable for free, but on these new Treks, it's a major PITA because you have to fish the cable out at the BB (?????). Please correct me on this, but I believe there is no routing inside the tubes - the cable just goes down the tube and out the BB. Ouch. And, I think he said the BB had to be removed to fish it out (?????).

If I worked in product design for any big box bike maker, I would tape this to the wall and make sure I never created a chance for an LBS to say this about my product. I would want them to Love putting my bike together. If you can put a man on the moon, you can design a way to route internal cables so they are easy to install (don't soak up LBS labor time; even a newbie can do it in 30 seconds), easy to replace, and don't make internal noise. Leaving it up to inventive mechanics (glue 8 inches of thread if you're going to glue 3, BTW) is ridiculous. I'd even work with the OEM cable makers to make them pre-set up for internal installation (reusable, beeping, glow-in-the-dark cable ends anybody (see and hear it approach the hole)?) .

I've heard internal cable complaints for many, many years now. Silly me, thinking the issues would be solved in a season.

[anomaly]

My LBS wants $75.00 for cable replacement labor. Cable is not included, just for labor. Is it steep or is it fair?
Ride up to my house in San Anselmo with the cables and end caps, we will get it done in a half an hour with 20 minutes of that taken for me explaining the derailleur adjustment process.

[Dan Le foot]

[QUOTE=biker72]MY LBS charges $30 plus cables.
QUOTE]
That's more like it.
If a professional wrench can't do it in less than 15 minutes than he/she should be doing something else.
Dan

[TAW]

[QUOTE=biker72]MY LBS charges $30 plus cables.
QUOTE]
That's more like it.
If a professional wrench can't do it in less than 15 minutes than he/she should be doing something else.
Dan

We charge $40 to replace ALL the cables and housing on a bike. This doesn't include parts but does include adjustment and one free adjustment after the cables stretch. So yeah, $75 bucks is high to run one cable through the housing and adjust.

[norcalbiker]

[QUOTE=Dan Le foot]

We charge $40 to replace ALL the cables and housing on a bike. This doesn't include parts but does include adjustment and one free adjustment after the cables stretch. So yeah, $75 bucks is high to run one cable through the housing and adjust.

Do you guys have a franchise here? :D

[norcalbiker]

Ride up to my house in San Anselmo with the cables and end caps, we will get it done in a half an hour with 20 minutes of that taken for me explaining the derailleur adjustment process.


I might take you up on this offer.

[norcalbiker]

I can offer the same if you're in the South Bay, and would be glad to go over DR adjustments as well. Should take no more than 20-30 min altogether.


RE: internal routing without internal guides

Experienced this on my Klein Q Pro when I swapped out cables. The exit hole is just SLIGHTLY bigger than the cable and can be a total PITA to find. One cable I got really lucky with and hit it on the first couple tries, but the other took about 15-20 min of poking around. I've been told a strong magnet can be a great help, but haven't tried that method myself yet.

Also, be VERY careful that the cables don't cross or overlap INSIDE the downtube, as it can be hard to detect at first, but it'll totally mess with your shifting.

Southbay is a little too far from me, but thanks for the offer though. :beer:

[norcalbiker]

Maybe i'm wrong but i think prices are geo dependent. Given that norcal is in your name i'm assuming your in well.. n. cal. and everything in california is more expensive than jsut about anywhere else in the states ('cept maybe HI and NYC) thanks to our high cost of living.

So.. that being said i checked a couple of sites for local shops and $75 does seem a bit high, given that most of these shops will do a basic tune up for that price.

http://www.paloaltobicycles.com/service/labor-offered/
http://www.roaringmousecycles.com/services/1
http://bicycleoutfitter.com/about/service-prices-pg65.htm

Bicycle Outfitter is the only site that has a detailed cost break down by service and based upon that, if I'm reading what they're charging and what you're looking to do correctly, $75 seems high.

Hope this helps.

All these shops are bit far from me. However, thanks for the tip.

[norcalbiker]

norcal, if you are in the eastbay and just need wires, i'll do it for a six of negro modelo.


Hey crankles, I may also take you up on your offer since, I do go to Piedmont time to time.

[Gummee]

norcal, if you are in the eastbay and just need wires, i'll do it for a six of negro modelo.
You work cheap. I make em buy pizza too!

M

[norcalbiker]

Here's the vid that finally made derailleur adjustment click for me. An English guy named Tony with a series of bike repair videos:




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkzvfCaIbyQ


After watching that video more than once, I am now going to give it a try. Thanks for the link and I'll update the result of my journey. :D

[97CSI]

My LBS wants $75.00 for cable replacement labor. Cable is not included, just for labor. Is it steep or is it fair?Just had a cable replaced and FD/RD adjusted. Total labor was $7 for the cable replacement and $15 for the adjustments. Hope my LBS doesn't read this thread.

[retrogrouchy]

Cables fray and break. Some bike shops are recommending replacement of right hand STI shift cables every 1,000 miles. My LBS recommends replacement annually for a bike that only gets ridden a couple of thousand miles a year and twice annually for a bike that gets ridden over 4,000 miles a year.

My experience is all with bar end shifters, and there you can get quite sloppy about preventive replacement of cables, because when the cable starts to to it frays and the loose ends will poke you in the finger when you shift long before there's any real danger of the cable breaking. STI, on the other hand, gives you no warning. It just breaks.

Even worse, when the cable breaks with an STI shifter, the end can get caught up inside the shifter mechanism and jam the shifter. A friend of mine had to have her right STI unit replaced when the cable broke on the first day of Bike Virginia: nobody had time to try to mess around inside the brifter unit to find the lost cable end.

Housings, on the other hand, can last for years. Decades, even.

Reasons #47-50 not to use that overly-complicated newfangled stuff! :bike:

[retrogrouchy]

The reason for replacing a shift cable before it breaks -- aside from avoiding getting stranded in the middle of a ride -- is that when the cable breaks in a STI unit the cable end inside the shifter unit has to go somewhere, and the where is down into the bowels of the shifter unit itself, where it jams the shifter. In a best case scenario, you take the brifter apart and get it out; in a worst case scenario you get to buy a new brifter unit, which will cost you close to $200. (That's not a fantasy, it's exactly what happened to a friend of mine on the first day of Bike Virginia this year.)

As for riding 5 years on a set of cables, that's not what seems to be happening around here. Right hand shift cables are breaking after only a year with < 4,000 miles on them. I have several friends this has happened to, and more than once for some. I've been on rides with them when their cables have broken.

I'd say if you could avoid that by replacing the cable, it would be money very well spent.

I've myself have had right hand shift cables on my bikes (bar end shifters in all cases) start to fray, which I discovered in the middle of a ride when the sharp frayed ends poked me in the finger. Generally this happens after around 5,000 miles of use.

So let me understand this: tubular tires are no good because you might have to repair one every decade or so, but STI is good, even though you have to replace the cables multiple times per year? I don't get it, sorry.... :rolleyes:

[palincss]

So let me understand this: tubular tires are no good because you might have to repair one every decade or so, but STI is good, even though you have to replace the cables multiple times per year? I don't get it, sorry.... :rolleyes:

When did you ever hear me say STI is good? Never in life. First time I ever tried bar end shifters, back in 1974 or 1975, it was like Michael Corleone seeing Apollonia Vitelli for the first time, struck by Cupid's arrow, and from then on it's always been "when you pry my cold dead fingers off of them."

And when has anybody gone ten years between flat tires?

[retrogrouchy]

When did you ever hear me say STI is good? Never in life. First time I ever tried bar end shifters, back in 1974 or 1975, it was like Michael Corleone seeing Apollonia Vitelli for the first time, struck by Cupid's arrow, and from then on it's always been "when you pry my cold dead fingers off of them."

And when has anybody gone ten years between flat tires?

Duly noted re: STI.

No one goes ten years between flats, don't twist my words, please. I ride tubulars extensively, as does my wife, and we haven't *repaired* a tubular in over thirty years. It just isn't necessary or wise. Between us, we have perhaps two flats per year, on average. Usually, the tire is so worn at that point that it is tossed out, or is not repairable. High-performance tubulars last about as long as 'comparable' high-performance clinchers, maybe 1500 miles on the rear and 3000 on the front (yammv). When a tubular flats, it is often because I didn't get it replaced soon enough, and we get 100% useage from it! People that complain about tubulars are almost always the folks that buy cheap tubulars (and then complain that they don't seem any better than their expensive clinchers...). Friends don't let friends buy cheap tubulars!
<rant off>

(EDIT: I just changed 'high-quality' to read 'high-performance').