Colorado Frame Question

[dekindy]

My used Colorado frame came with Campy 8-speed and I had no problems with it. I did not ride it on the road very much but felt I rode it enough to uncover any problems.

I have had it on the KK trainer since.

Over the Winter I found a great deal on a 105 group and since my primary bike was Shimano decided to convert.

I put it back on the trainer once the group was installed and had not ridden it on the road until yesterday. The back wheel will not sit in the frame squarely, to the point that the wheel rubs against the frame. Any idea why not? The wheel seems to slide into the frame without binding. When I align the wheel and then let go of the wheel it slides back into the non-drive side dropout. Is there something binding it on the drive side? The hubs are White Industries if that is relevant. I am going to take it to the LBS later today because I have to take my Son to the doctor this morning but was hoping to get assurance that there is an easy fix!

[AngryScientist]

having a hard time understanding what you're talking about. you should be able to slide the rear wheel into the rear dropouts, put the weight of the bike on the axle, and clamp down the qr. the qr tension should properly center the rear wheel.

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ04zdA87SlfyB1jOyT-IMtZ9FxjAzu52kV3aNKeEmDhzKEFb-4&t=1

[cmg]

you did change the cassette with the groupset? your not running an 8 spd wheel with a 9 speed drivetrain? Takeoff the skewers slide the wheel into the back of the dropouts. Wheels should be square but sometimes chaintension will pull the driveside forward. just make sure the axle end isn't egg shapped. other than that, who knows.

[dekindy]

having a hard time understanding what you're talking about. you should be able to slide the rear wheel into the rear dropouts, put the weight of the bike on the axle, and clamp down the qr. the qr tension should properly center the rear wheel.

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ04zdA87SlfyB1jOyT-IMtZ9FxjAzu52kV3aNKeEmDhzKEFb-4&t=1

I agree. That is the method I have always used on all my bikes without a problem but this one will not work that way.

CMG - I guess it could be chain tension. Is the chain too short?

The drivetrain and wheel are 10-speed. I have used the wheel with my Ultegra equipped Legend. I sold the Campy 8-speed wheel.

[oliver1850]

Check the condition of the dropouts. They can get banged up and have burrs hanging off them that will prevent either the locknut or the axle itself from sliding into the correct position. I've had several used bikes where the dropout was messed up enough that the hub wouldn't slide freely into place. It's easiest to check with a bare hub. This is even more likely to be a problem if it's a 126mm frame and you have to spread it a bit anyway.

[David Kirk]

is it the same wheel but just with a different cassette or a different wheel?

Dave

[dekindy]

is it the same wheel but just with a different cassette or a different wheel?

Dave

The frame is the only thing that has not changed. New Shimano 10-speed wheel and 105 group, chain, cassette, etc. I have used the wheel on my 10 speed Ultegra Legend. Formerly 8-speed Campy and wheel. The wheel must not be seating fully in the drive side as the wheel is rubbing against the non-drive side chainstay.

I have not used visually inspected the dropout. Hopefully my wife will be done working shortly and I can run the bike down to the LBS and get an expert eyeball and opinion.

[David Kirk]

The frame is the only thing that has not changed. New Shimano 10-speed wheel and 105 group, chain, cassette, etc. I have used the wheel on my 10 speed Ultegra Legend. Formerly 8-speed Campy and wheel. The wheel must not be seating fully in the drive side as the wheel is rubbing against the non-drive side chainstay.

I have not used visually inspected the dropout. Hopefully my wife will be done working shortly and I can run the bike down to the LBS and get an expert eyeball and opinion.

cool.

Try these tow things in this order.

1) put the wheel in the bike as you have and lean it against the wall so that it's vertical. Now undo and take out the skewer and look at how the axle is set into the slots. it should of course be all the way into the slots and show to space between the axle and top of the slot. If there is space that is your issue.

2) if #1 didn't point of the issue----------take the wheel out and flip it around and put it in backward. If the wheel is not off to the other side from where is was when the wheel was in the right way it's an issue with the wheel not being dished properly. If it stays the same (wheel off to the same side after the switch) it's not a wheel issue but something else.

Dave

[dekindy]

I did both these tests with the bike sitting upside down, wheel sitting freely in the frame, no tension from the chain.

With the wheel sitting normally, cassette on drive side, the wheel does not touch the frame, but just barely, and spins freely. So the wheel is misaligned.

If I reverse the wheel, it sits squarely in the frame, perfectly aligned.

I don't have another bike to compare, but it appears that the width between the chain stays is narrower on the Colorado than my Legend.

The wheels in question were my everyday wheels on my 10-speed Legend before I got my Shimano road tubeless. I am not sure how long I ran them, but for probably at least a season so hundreds to thousands of miles. They have been sitting idle for a couple of seasons because I could not use them on my Campy equipped Colorado that has now been converted to Shimano 10-speed.

[David Kirk]

That points toward one of two things - that the dish is off and/or the axle is bent.

dave

[dekindy]

That points toward one of two things - that the dish is off and/or the axle is bent.

dave

Thanks so much, sir. You are a gentleman and a scholar to take the time to help me diagnose this. I am off to the LBS armed with great information that will help speed up the diagnosis of this problem. I guess putting another wheel into the frame will quickly eliminate whether the frame is a problem which I would gladly do if my Legend were not at the LBS for maintenance.

[David Kirk]

Thanks so much, sir. You are a gentleman and a scholar to take the time to help me diagnose this. I am off to the LBS armed with great information that will help speed up the diagnosis of this problem. I guess putting another wheel into the frame will quickly eliminate whether the frame is a problem which I would gladly do if my Legend were not at the LBS for maintenance.

My hunch is that when they put a dishing tool on the wheel you'll have your answer. If so the dish can of course be adjusted and it should cost very little to have that done.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Dave

[christian]

Dave, there is a grinding sound on my car that matches road speed, and when I turn left it increases in volume and pitch. Front right wheel bearing? :D (In other words, nice internet diagnosis!!!)

[dekindy]

Problem solved.

The frame is out of alignment a few millimeters. Putting a new wheel in the frame quickly confirmed that.

Rear wheel was out of dish enough to make a difference. Wheel put back in dish and there is enough clearance unless a torque monster is riding it, which I am not. Besides, with a Serotta Legend to ride I won't be riding the Colorado unless I have to.

[David Kirk]

Dave, there is a grinding sound on my car that matches road speed, and when I turn left it increases in volume and pitch. Front right wheel bearing? :D (In other words, nice internet diagnosis!!!)

I'd go with a stick right front brake caliper.

thanks- have a grand weekend.


dave

[dekindy]

Went to Craig Ryan of Foresta Frames. Nice to have a riding buddy that is a frame builder. Did not want to uninstall components so we did the string test and crude measurements and wheel seemed to be out of alignment by 1-2mm. Did a little grinding on the drive side drop out and rear wheel is now aligned perfectly. Going to ride it a lot this Fall and decide if I want to have Craig restore it or get a frame that is closer to my ideal frame size.