PDA

View Full Version : Park Tool Chain Checker 3 versus 3.2


dekindy
06-20-2011, 04:01 PM
I recently purchased the Park Tool go/no go model 3 chain wear indicator that has .75% and 1.00% standards versus what appears to a newer model 3.2 model that has .50% and .75% respectively.

Why the difference? I cannot see any explanation on Park Tool's website. In fact they are not currently displaying the 3 model on their website.

I hope the model 3 that I purchased is appropriate for measuring Shimano chain wear.

ultraman6970
06-20-2011, 04:12 PM
the difference is just 0.2

Don49
06-20-2011, 04:18 PM
Looks like overall improvements, "The updated CC-3.2 is longer, more accurate and features permanent measurement markings."

I think the change from .75%/1.00% to .50%/.75% is just to give you a more precise warning (.75%) that you are approaching the replacement limit (1%).

I have the CC-3 and CC-2 but still prefer using a 12" steel ruler to check chain wear, quicker, cleaner, and more accurate.

dave thompson
06-20-2011, 04:59 PM
Agreed. I still use a steel rule and measure from pin-to-pin at least 12". Easier and much more accurate indication of chain wear. The Park-type tool will often give you a 50~75% wear indication on a new chain.

Ken Robb
06-20-2011, 05:21 PM
Agreed. I still use a steel rule. The Park-type tool will often give you a 50~75% wear indication on a new chain.

Are you still buying those $3 chains made in Nigeria?

ultraman6970
06-20-2011, 06:12 PM
Are u talking about those made of bamboo??

ClutchCargo
06-21-2011, 01:05 PM
Looks like overall improvements, "The updated CC-3.2 is longer, more accurate and features permanent measurement markings."

I think the change from .75%/1.00% to .50%/.75% is just to give you a more precise warning (.75%) that you are approaching the replacement limit (1%).

I have the CC-3 and CC-2 but still prefer using a 12" steel ruler to check chain wear, quicker, cleaner, and more accurate.


What method do you use with the steel ruler?

MattTuck
06-21-2011, 01:31 PM
I wonder if Park takes kickbacks from the chain manufacturers... I bet they do. :cool:

Heading out to the store, I'm out of tinfoil.

dave thompson
06-21-2011, 06:01 PM
What method do you use with the steel ruler?
Center of pin to center of pin over 12" with some tension on the chain. That will measure the actual stretch (elongation) of the chain. The Park-type chain checkers measure roller wear instead of elongation.

JeffS
06-21-2011, 07:34 PM
Center of pin to center of pin over 12" with some tension on the chain. That will measure the actual stretch (elongation) of the chain. The Park-type chain checkers measure roller wear instead of elongation.

"elongation" in a bicycle chain IS roller wear.

Mark McM
06-21-2011, 08:03 PM
"elongation" in a bicycle chain IS roller wear.

Nope. You can wear the rollers down until they are gone, and it won't increase the pitch (elongate) the chain. Heck, the original bicycle chains were block chains, which had no rollers at all, and they would elongate as they wore out, just like modern chains.

dekindy
06-22-2011, 08:11 AM
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

As always, Sheldon Brown to the rescue and in this case Jobst Brandt.

LegendRider
06-22-2011, 08:22 AM
Nope. You can wear the rollers down until they are gone, and it won't increase the pitch (elongate) the chain. Heck, the original bicycle chains were block chains, which had no rollers at all, and they would elongate as they wore out, just like modern chains.

Hypothetically, if a chain has severe roller wear but no elongation, would it damage a cassette?

dekindy
06-22-2011, 08:33 AM
Hypothetically, if a chain has severe roller wear but no elongation, would it damage a cassette?

See link above. According to them only the pins and sleeves wear.

toaster
06-22-2011, 06:41 PM
Firstly, being able to immerse an opened chain in solvent and soak it, brush it and use compressed air to dry it completely is best.

Next, applying a light lubricant to the inside of the rollers and wiping off as much exterior oiliness on the side plates as possible is ideal.

As far as measuring for elongation, a scale (or steel rule mounted on a wall) with a pin to hold chain as it hangs and to see that over as much of the entire chain length as possible the amount of elongation versus a brand new chain on the same scale. This would show actual stretch of the entire length of chain and gravity would be a reliable constant as chain was measured.

I'm going to do this myself with a steel rule that's at least 36" long mounted on a piece of plywood that has a small brad nail exactly at 0 or the 1 inch mark. There will be a precise reference to the length of a brand new chain recorded on the plywood. I'll hang it somewhere in the garage!

Explorer708
06-23-2011, 07:58 AM
Great discussion - I always wondered why my Park chain tool (cc-2) showed wear when I installed a new chain. Isn't there a rough rule of thumb to change the chain every 2K miles depending upon conditions/usage?

Squint
06-23-2011, 11:17 AM
How many versions will Park make before they make one that actually works?

Dave
06-23-2011, 05:45 PM
Hypothetically, if a chain has severe roller wear but no elongation, would it damage a cassette?


Most definitely. I've used a Campy 10 chain for 6,000 miles and accurately measured only .15% elongation over the full length of the chain. Despite that, my 19T cog skipped when a new chain was installed. I also used a Record cassette with three Ti cogs and got chain skip after only 4,000 miles with one chain, showing far less elongation. This is a case where Jobst Brandt did not consider all of the possibilities and he's wrong that only elongation is relevant.

FWIW, even though the Campy chain with 6,000 miles on it had little elongation, it was shot. The rollers were very worn - about .005 inch smaller on the OD and .010 inch larger on the ID. The side clearance between inner and outer plates was about .013 inch, or twice the original amount.

Both elongation and roller wear are relevant, but a mixed reading like most chain checking tools give is not.

Shimano and KMC chains will commonly show at least .25% elongation when new, due to a larger space between the rollers. A Campy chain will measure about .200 inch while the others will measure in the .210-.215 inch range.

I'm and advocate of alternating the use of several chains with one cassette. If that's done properly, you'll never get new-chain skip due to roller wear.

Don49
06-23-2011, 06:13 PM
Both elongation and roller wear are relevant, but a mixed reading like most chain checking tools give is not.


Will checking with a ruler detect both elongation and roller wear?

aosty
06-23-2011, 07:33 PM
Anyone compare the Park gauge to the Rohloff gauge to a ruler?

Dave
06-23-2011, 10:23 PM
Will checking with a ruler detect both elongation and roller wear?

A rule checks elongation. Roller wear requires calipers with internal tips. I use increased roller spacing to decide when to alternate chains in a rotation. When the spacing increases by .015-.020, then it's time to change, assuming that the ultimate life is .035-.040.

Don49
07-04-2011, 03:17 PM
I came across this interesting page on "Chain Wear Measuring Tools":

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/