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View Full Version : Old frame & Campy 11 = workable?


dd74
06-20-2011, 11:17 AM
I'm looking at an old Colnago. It's from the 80s. Thing is, it has 126mm spacing in the rear. Word has it that might be a no-no with today's modern groups, particularly 11-speed Campy.

What do you guys think?

Thx.

AngryScientist
06-20-2011, 11:23 AM
is it steel? if so, cold set the rear and you should be good to go.

GuyGadois
06-20-2011, 11:50 AM
Should be no problem at all. As AngryScientist said you can cold set it (look online for Sheldon's method) or just simply pull the drops out a little when putting in a 130 spaced wheel. I run 130 on my 126 bikes without any problem and I didn't cold set them. It just takes a bit more effort.

GUY

EvanOT
06-20-2011, 02:22 PM
I have Athena 11 on my 83 Pinarello, its awesome.
I never cold set the rear.

ultraman6970
06-20-2011, 03:25 PM
It will work just fine.

lhuerta
06-20-2011, 03:26 PM
...should be very work-able. You will need to cold set stays to 130mm and then be sure to align the dropouts once the stays are set. The second strap is critical if you are going to be running 11-speed because an un-aligned dropout will likely contact your cogs or the lockring.
Lou

EvanOT
06-20-2011, 03:43 PM
...should be very work-able. You will need to cold set stays to 130mm and then be sure to align the dropouts once the stays are set. The second strap is critical if you are going to be running 11-speed because an un-aligned dropout will likely contact your cogs or the lockring.
Lou
You don't "need" to cold set the stays.

Kontact
06-20-2011, 04:04 PM
Read this thread:

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=92221


There is nothing wrong with putting 11speed/130 hubs in an older frame. But the dropout standards where less stringent in the '80s, because freewheel 7s didn't stick out as far as 8, 9, 10 and 11 do. So it may work, or it may not. And it's easy enough to find out before you buy any parts.

If it does work, I'd cold set it for my convenience and to minimize the stress on the frame. I believe constant tension puts more strain on the steel and brazing than a one time bend, but I'm sure others would disagree.

lhuerta
06-20-2011, 04:15 PM
You don't "need" to cold set the stays.

Evan, you are correct, you don't NEED to cold set the stay or re-align the dropouts...anyone can cram a 130mm hub on to a 126mm frame and then over clamp their QR on to unaligned dropouts in order to secure their wheel. I was providing precise advise on the assumption that the OP wants to do the job correctly. Coldsetting stays and re-aligning dropouts will provide the most secure contact point between droput faces and axle locknuts, provide maximum adjustability on horizontal dropouts, and reduce likelihood of cracking a dropout.
Lou

EvanOT
06-20-2011, 04:31 PM
Ah, thanks for the tip lou, I might consider getting my stays cold set now.

Spin71
06-20-2011, 05:47 PM
is it steel?

Did Colnago make anything else in the 80's?

ultraman6970
06-20-2011, 05:58 PM
Why cold set it? I mean it is so little, 2 mms per side, plus the issue of basically realigning the whole frame also (hope you know somebody with a good table). As somebody mentioned, just leave the frame as it is, it will work just fine.

I would not touch a chromed rear end bike either.

Good luck with the procedure.

dd74
06-20-2011, 06:18 PM
Thanks for the information, gentlemen.

Yes, the frame is steel. My previous steel frames on which I performed this was a Colnago Super, which I put on a 9-speed freewheel/cassette, and my old Appel, which had a 10-speed. Both worked fine, particularly with DT shifters.

My only concern now is will 11-speed work. But then now that I recall things, a friend of mine has adapted 11-speed Chorus to his '72 Colnago Super, and he says it's the best road bike he's ever owned. Light too at about 18 lbs.

One question: how does one align the dropouts? Also, does anyone know of a good, solid carbon fork that will work with this frame, which I believe has a 1-inch steerer?

Thanks again.

steampunk
06-20-2011, 06:54 PM
there is always a selection of colnago 1" forks listed on eBay.

ultraman6970
06-20-2011, 07:00 PM
There is a tool for it, unless u have a bunch of bikes to work with makes non sense to buy the tool, not that expensive (+100 bucks) but to use it maybe 3 times is just a waste of money, for that u have to go to the LBS. OBviously the tool is called Dropouts alignment tool :D

U need a fork with the same rake and lenght than the one u have in there or the handling will be affected, hope you know the rake of that fork. If you get a fork with less rake pretty much the bike will turn faster but might be harder to handle (my preference in bikes), longer rake and trail will do just the opposite, long turns, easier to handle.

Somebody was selling a look 1 inch threaded one that could work, no idea if he sold it already (search). A 1 inch non threaded could work but u might need a whole new headset, stem and handlebar maybe.

dd74
06-20-2011, 07:25 PM
Thanks for the advice about forks; I'll look into the rake, etc.

The one potential problem I see with this frame is it's a bit smaller than I'm used to. The top tube is 52cm, while I ride a 53.2cm top tube on my customized frame. The seat tube on the Colnago is 50cm, but my customized is a sloping 48cm, so that doesn't seem to be as much an issue.

Any thoughts or advice on these measurements?

Thx.

Kontact
06-20-2011, 07:25 PM
You can make the tool out of two axles and their locknuts. Hollow axles allow you to sight down them to help see which way to bend - a good trick if you decide to use a single axle.

ultraman6970
06-20-2011, 09:10 PM
IN the bike, all depends of the reach of the bike. Clearly the custom one has sloping, right? From 50 to a 52 it could be a lot but have not seen any of the bikes niether angles and reach, if the reach is close between them it wont be a big deal, probably you wont even feel the difference.

U have to move the position from one bike to the other one, to do that u have to use the center of the BB as a starting point for every measurements.

Good luck

dd74
06-21-2011, 12:52 AM
Thanks, Ultra and everyone else.

Germany_chris
06-21-2011, 01:51 AM
The fork rake should be 43..like all Colnagos of that era I have measured..but do yourself a favor go to ebay.it if you want a new Colnago fork the Italians don't find them anywhere near as dear as we do. I bought a brand new threadless Prescia on ebay.it for 123 euro and I took italian VAT off..thats about what ratty threaded ones sell for here. I can look here also ebay.de but their not significantly cheaper but a bit as Germans don't like old things. I have a Acros HS that looked A+ on my Master. I can also put you in touch with an ebay seller that makes top notch decals to include the Columbus decal..I did this last winter it was fun and the bike was beautiful!! it's in the steel lovers roll call thread

Chris

oldpotatoe
06-21-2011, 07:44 AM
You don't "need" to cold set the stays.

But you 'should' if you want to do this correctly. Aligned dropouts are the idea, even on an old 'Nago.

Germany_chris
06-21-2011, 08:02 AM
I don't understand all the angst against cold setting the stays the rear end...jeez my shop charges 12 euro to cold set and align..do it right and cold set the stays


Chris

oldpotatoe
06-21-2011, 09:08 AM
I don't understand all the angst against cold setting the stays the rear end...jeez my shop charges 12 euro to cold set and align..do it right and cold set the stays


Chris

Yep, I do it for 20.86 Euros($30)..only because I OVH the BB, secure the frame by the empty BB shell..then do it..so the gent gets a BB overhaul also.