Need Help With Fitting My Bike

[PedlePusher6]

:help: So, here is the story. I posted my bike for sale in the classified section of this forum stating that it was too big for me. But, Instead of having people interested in the bike, they were interested in how to fit the bike to me. Which I think is awesome that people want to help, this is the best forum I have been on with the nicest peeps :beer: .
So now, instead of selling the bike, I am trying to fit the bike properly. I guess I was trying to accomplish a tri position (cause I did some tri's, but I started off cycling and want to get back into that, and I figure if I want to do another tri I can always do it in a road position) but now I am trying to accomplish a road position.

Here are my specs:

Height: 5'11"

Weight: 158lbs

Inseam: 81.9cm or 32 3/8ish inches

Flexibility: I'd have to say I am pretty flexible

Injury history: None on the bike, and since I lost 30lbs no more IT band problems while running.

Fitness level: Umm.. pretty fit I'd say, like a 6min mile running

Goals: I wanna ride faster and for longer distances, Last time I rode I went 25 miles at 17mph, definitely want to increase that.

Use of the bike: Recreation, commuting, group rides, and some fun races

So I had a little birdy tell me to measure my inseam and multiply that by 0.885 to come up with a starting point. The number is 72.5 cm, so I measured that from the center of the BB to the top of my seat for a starting point.

So here are some pictures of me bike at the starting point.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5267/5764829373_167a19ea0e_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5309/5764830671_06dcce5ef6_b.jpg

Here are some pictures of me on the bike with the crank in various positions and my hands on the hoods.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5310/5765381246_6e069e206e_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5305/5764834135_3748475e51_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2607/5765383652_3ed6c9a083_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2695/5765384536_13480ce30c_b.jpg

At this position it felt like I was reaching out for the hoods quit a bit. And I also have problems with numbness in the "junk" at this position, but I haven't road in this position in a long time and I also have the specialized romin saddle on there that is supposed to help.

Sooo Pleassse :help: me with this fit!!

Thanks all :bike:

[cmg]

have you tried going to a shorter stem or flipping it so that it is horizontal? or removing a few spacers to lower it's height? the saddle looks like it's in the right place. if the nose points up set it the horizontal.

[bagochips3]

Looks okay to me. A shorter stem might be in order. But the best advice I can give would be to get a proper fitting. (Free advice on an online forum is often worth what you pay for it ;) It's money well spent and will make the bike comfortable for you and help prevent future injuries. The fitter will be able to fit you to that bike, or, worst case, steer you toward a bike that does fit. But to my eye, you should be able to fit that bike. Finding a saddle that works for you is a big deal and a very personal matter. Try to find a shop that has a loaner program that lets you test ride different saddles.

[Richard]

It's pretty hard to tell too much because as set up in the photos, the bike is not level. The front wheel is lower because of the trainer.

Here is one thing that I think I'm seeing -- it looks like your cleat is set up so that the ball of your foot is way ahead of the pedal axle. I would start there and begin with a more neutral ball over axle position.

The measurement that you took for saddle height is made too near the nose of the saddle. Set it so that the starting point is the "sit" area. Then after you reset your cleat, set the saddle setback for close to knee over axle.

My useless internet information for what it's worth.

[rinconryder]

Looks relatively good. One thing that strikes me as odd is that I have a 30 inch pant inseam and I have a 73.5 saddle height (from BB center to top of saddle) when running the tape measure across the point where the saddle rails begin to bend coming from the front of the saddle. There are probably many factors in play with that though such as ST angle, etc.

Another thing you should do is run a drop line from just below your knee down to your foot when the crank is at the 3:00 position. The drop line should go straight through the axle of your pedal.

As far as using that bike as both a Tri bike and road bike, basically a bike under one set up can't do both. You can make a road bike into a tri bike with a forward facing seat post, but with aero bars you are basically shifting your entire body forward on the bike to place your elbows in a good position to resst where your hands would normally be if that makes sense. Thus, tt bars on a road bike without the forward facing seat post simply leave you way too stretched out which I can confirm by looking at pictures from my first tri where I tried that.

Good luck.

[1centaur]

First I'd say the bike's not too big for your dimensions.

I think the bars feel like a long reach because of the A frame you are creating with your back and arms. If your elbows were bent because your back was lower, the bars would seem closer. To get your back lower you need to rotate the pelvis so you are perched on your sit bones, don't lean forward on your soft tissue. The saddle tilt is critical to getting that part right, and it might not be intuitive whether nose up is worse than flat (with that saddle the question is what part should be flat), experiment with saddle tilt (1/2 degree can make a big difference) and try it out for 2 days at a time. My advice is to understand that bent/relaxed elbows is where you must get to if you're to be a strong rider, and then take the steps necessary to get there, including core work so your stomach muscles help support you.

This thread would help a lot of people because it brings up the two most common issues for newer cyclists - belief that the saddle type and the bar position should be adapted to where the rider is, whereas the reality is that the rider needs to work towards where the bars should be and saddle preferences will evolve during that process.

BTW, when you say you are flexible, is that touch your toes, or touch the floor, or both hands flat on the floor with straight legs?

[veloduffer]

I think the bike size is fine. You may want a shorter stem and/or handlebar with shorter reach. How long is the stem and reach? Where do you place your hands for most of your riding? Many riders have their hands on the ramps (the bit of handlebar before the hoods) or on the flats.

Also, in all your pictures, you are looking down. If you look straight ahead in your normal riding position, do you bend lower (which would relax your arms some)?

As others noted, your cleat position seems a bit forward. If moved back, you might lower your back position (bend more).

As for the seat, it might not support your sit bones enough and is putting pressure on the front. Finding a comfy saddle is trial and error. But once you find one, I recommend buying a couple of spares so if they discontinue the model, you won't have to go through testing again. Many of the pros (Lance, Indurain) used the same model saddle throughout their career - sticking with what works.

[daker13]

The measurement that you took for saddle height is made too near the nose of the saddle. Set it so that the starting point is the "sit" area.

Is that true? I didn't know that.

[TimD]

I'm not a fitter.

It's pretty hard to tell too much because as set up in the photos, the bike is not level. The front wheel is lower because of the trainer.

+1.

Otherwise looks about right (modulo the comments about cleat position)

I'd start by pointing the saddle down a bit.
Tim

PS "I rode on the road", not "I road on the rode"

[Richard]

You're trying to estimate (and I do mean estimate) appropriate leg extension as a starting point. That requires that you measure to where you sit.

That said, I think the cleat position and knee over spindle is where this fellow needs to start. Then saddle height and setback. Finally reach.

[eddief]

what are the bike dimensions?

I am your height, but way not your flexibility. I need a 58 top tube, bars at or above seat level...and my saddle is just about at the exact height as yours.

Big subjective, you look tall, bike looks small.

Too many variables!

[Smiley]

Nice Hat collection,
And before any Forumites here can give you advice make sure your bike is level on the trainer. Your bike needs a book or a stand to raise the front wheel to level the bike. Then you are in a best position for the gallery to give you advice :)

[deechee]

If you want commentary, post your problem on slowtwitch.com. There must be a "critique my position" every few days which generates a ton of replies.

If you want to figure out your problem and you're on the east coast, make an appointment with a fitter at Signature Cycles. I've met with Paul Levine many times for road, tri fit and with my gf and will go to no one else even though he's a five hour drive away.

[Germany_chris]

How about a 3 cm rise in the saddle height, I have about an 2" shorter legs than you do and I run a 74-75 saddle height depending on pedals

[ultraman6970]

Ok, flip the stem and move one of the spacers over the stem and tight the top cap thing.

Ride it and let us know how it feels :)

Big chance after a couple of weeks the dude will start moving spacers out and maybe adding 1 cm to the stem but this is just a 1st guess thinking that he is really flexible but so far the 1st impressions are positive.

[false_Aest]

So I had a little birdy tell me to measure my inseam and multiply that by 0.885 to come up with a starting point. The number is 72.5 cm, so I measured that from the center of the BB to the top of my seat for a starting point.


Uhm.

I'm not so sure you measured correctly yo.


http://www.parktool.com/uploads/images/blog/repair_help/position03.jpg

[Germany_chris]

Remember..In the other thread I said to kinda roll your hips forward, it takes the roundness out of your back and stabilizes your legs..it "lengthen" your torso..

[PedlePusher6]

You've all been a ton of help! I really appreciate all the help.
So, where to start, well I could definitely feel the difference when I tilted my hips forward, that seemed to help. So far I have flipped my stem around and added one spacer to the top of the stem (with a level bike).

Heres a pic of my progress:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5262/5766253686_b23e4a12ba_b.jpg

I dont have anyone here to take pictures of me on the bike (which I am sure will help more than this pic, but I will get some up) but I will get them up soon.

I feel like I could play around with the height of the seat and the angle (like some mentioned) and I should move my cleats back a bit right? more under the ball of my foot?
If thats correct then I will take some pics of a plum-bob hanging over my knee in the 3o'clock position. But all this is going to have to wait since I dont have another person to :help: me with the pics

But be patient young jedi's, I will have some pics up soon! Again thanks for all the help fellas

[cody.wms]

Where are you located? Someone here can likely recommend an awesome fitter in your area. Doing this over the interweb can only go so far.

[Germany_chris]

except for cleat adjustment it's probably time to hold..Ride for a few weeks and see how it goes. This is not science, and none of us are perfect..the idea was to get some weight off the saddle and distribute it better..the drop's are to put you in a more aero position so they might feel a little strange now just keep practicing.

[ultraman6970]

If you move the cleats back the pedaling will change and it will be like moving the saddle height up a little bit. So move the cleats and ride that bike and see how it feels.

Sure it will feel like too low in the stem but that is something expected.

So far in pictures now the bike looks ok. Not even near to what stores sells you right?

Good luck :)

[ultraman6970]

Remember..In the other thread I said to kinda roll your hips forward, it takes the roundness out of your back and stabilizes your legs..it "lengthen" your torso..


Agree in the advice but sure u dont mean to move the hip backwards so the bones are really well situated in the saddle?? The other thing is style, in his case it will take a little bit to figure it out some stuff, other things are learn from another riders, specially style.

[Germany_chris]

Agree in the advice but sure u dont mean to move the hip backwards so the bones are really well situated in the saddle?? The other thing is style, in his case it will take a little bit to figure it out some stuff, other things are learn from another riders, specially style.

I think they end up further back...but action is rolling forward...

Now I'm confused :confused:

If you roll forward it the equivalent of sticking your a$$ out which would lengthen and straighten your back..Right?

[dave thompson]

I think they end up further back...but action is rolling forward...

Now I'm confused :confused:

If you roll forward it the equivalent of sticking your a$$ out which would lengthen and straighten your back..Right?
Yup, roll the hips forward, not moving them on the saddle.

[ultraman6970]

I think i have a problem losing stuff in the translation. Forward towards the front of the bike ??

"If you roll forward it the equivalent of sticking your a$$ out".. yes this is what i meant. :D to do this the hips goes up... like backwards up :P

[tooonee]

Agreed with above. I would find a local shop who does fitting and get this thing handled. Getting chronic knee or back problems isn't fun. And mm's make the difference.

[Pyramor]

Once you make the initial position change(s), do several rides before making any more changes, then only change one thing at a time. Also, keep your adjustments small. You will likely find that the new position feels awkward at first until your muscles adjust. Make sure that you measure and keep a log of all the changes and your impressions of each ride. It will make it much easier to remember what you did and how it felt. I have found that small changes are a continuing process over months and years depending on flexibility, strength, weight and even motivation.