More rear derailleur questions

[LegendRider]

Are there any tricks to setting the proper rear derailleur cable tension correctly?

I use the following process and I'm beginning to wonder if there is a better way. First, I set the limit screws so the derailleur's max movement is directly underneath the smallest and largest cogs (eyeball). Then, I shift to the big ring and small cog and release the cable. Next, I screw the barrel adjust in all the way and reattach the cable. Finally, I add cable tension (counter clockwise) in a trial-and-error manner until the shifts are crisp.

Is there a more formulaic method?

Thanks!

PS I don't have a bent derailleur hanger and my cables and housing are in good working condition.

[khjr]

I've found that the Sheldon Brown method works reasonably well - set the screws, put the chain on the big ring and 2nd or 3rd smallest cog, pull the cable taught with your hand, and lock it in place. Start pedaling and the chain will jump down to the first cog (you can't easily pull the cable as tight with your hand as the derailleur will) and the derailleur will be more or less adjusted, with the exception of a few tweaks on on the barrel (good idea to start with it unscrewed a turn or two).

With regards to the screws, I use a small steel ruler (or a tiny metal machinist's square) pressed against the cogs and hanging down to the jockey pulley to make sure that it's appropriately lined up

[rice rocket]

Following the factory directions usually works well...

Campy says line up the 4th smallest cog w/ the derailleur.
Shimano says shift to the 2nd and half-shift to the 3rd and it should catch by not shift.
SRAM just says if it feels slow on upshifts, tighten it.

[Kontact]

You can just stand behind the bike and look at where the derailleur is under the cog and what the chain angle is. If they line up, it'll shift.

[Bob Loblaw]

This is slightly dicey, but I set the small-cog limit screw slightly outboard of the smallest cog. Then I use cable tension to pull the derailer into position rather than let it come to rest on the stop. It might be in my head, but it seems like it shifts a little crisper at the small end of the cassette.

BL

[WickedWheels]

B-Tension screw adjustments aside (because frequently it doesn't get touched) and keeping in mind that it's most effective when done in the large chainring..

1. Without any cable tension set "High" limit screw (the smallest cog). Pedal forward until the chain is at its most silent.
2. Attach the cable and "pre-tension" by pulling firmly. Release cable, turn barrel adjuster out half a turn and re-attach cable.
3. Shift gently to the low gear (big rear cog) and set the "low" limit screw to make sure you can't overshift into the spokes.
4. Tweak the adjustment barrel until the shift is smooth in either direction. More cable tension will provide a faster shift towards the lower gears (higher cogs) and less will provide with a faster jump towards the higher gears (smaller cogs).

Good luck!