Old vs New/Suspension vs Rigid Mountain Bikes

[130R]

So I have mountain bikes on my mind and I know nothing about them. What is your guy's take on old mountain bikes vs newer modern ones?

is there an advantage to all that suspension? It seems to me the old full rigid bikes look "cooler" with their old thumb shifters and components.

I feel that suspension is overkill but does it really matter?

for a beginner mtb'er, would a cheaper high-end old rigid suffice?

[rugbysecondrow]

So I have mountain bikes on my mind and I know nothing about them. What is your guy's take on old mountain bikes vs newer modern ones?

is there an advantage to all that suspension? It seems to me the old full rigid bikes look "cooler" with their old thumb shifters and components.

I feel that suspension is overkill but does it really matter?

for a beginner mtb'er, would a cheaper high-end old rigid suffice?

Yes, a rigid will be perfectly suitable for a beginner. From my limited experience, a rigid helps you pick you line well, teaches you how to ride a little better and is sufficient for most trails. If you like the MTB and decide to delve into it more fully, then you can spend the extra funds, but I would go rigid from the get go. I have a rigid Surly Karate Monkey geared and I have a rigid Redline Monocog Flight single speed. Both are 29ers.

Others will likely have a different opinion as so much of this is personal preference.

Mountain biking is fun though, so however you get into it, go for it.

[avalonracing]

It all depends how and where you ride. Just like people don't need 1000cc racing motorcycles for street use, most guys don't need 5" of rear suspension travel on an MTB so they can ride it on fire roads.

I ride on fairly technical single track but I don't jump off 5' long jumps or go down mountains at 50mph. For me that means a decent front suspension on a good hardtail MTB works fine. I love the idea of a rigid front fork and I'm riding on the same trails that I used to ride on a rigid fork (so it can be done) but good suspension forks are light enough and track well enough that the pros (smoother, forgiving, more comfortable) far outweigh the cons (a little heavier and not quite as precise).

[deechee]

I find older bikes look nicer. I never liked fat tubing, and its hard to find a mtn bike these days that isn't. My Giant XTC is probably lighter than my old GT from the 90's but seems gigantic in comparison. The suspension works well, and lockout is a nice feature (so you can experience both.)

any bike will do, for me the magic in the 90's was in using as fat tires as possible running a low enough psi that wouldn't give me a flat.

New tech: Hydraulic disc brakes are fantastic though. I haven't had a chance to do any serious mtn riding since I got my XTC last year but I'm sure it will cut down on hand fatigue by far.

[DRietz]

I'm pretty far from a beginning mountain biker - I race in an adult single speed league locally on my fully rigid 29er.

I find that suspension almost never needed, and that's through an array of different rides. This summer I was able to conquer pretty much all of the technical stuff that Fruita has to offer, save for the entrance to Horsethief Bench (nearly made it...then I faceplanted).

So, as a beginner, I would actually recommend that you ride fully rigid. By riding a rigid mountain bike, you become better at handling your bike and yourself without the crutch of suspension. This means that you'll be powering over stuff that suspension riders are afraid to attack, and once you do eventually get a suspension fork, you'll be blowing past everyone else.

[veloduffer]

Ok, I'll be the contrarian. I got back into mtn biking this past winter. The terrain here is rocky and lots of roots and I was using a rigid bike, that is a cyclocross bike. I used to ride a rigid mtb many years ago.

I ponied up for a full suspension Trek Fuel EX 8 - makes mtn biking a lot more fun. My old body appreciates it and it gives you confidence on most terrain. The new suspension technology is great, almost no pedal bob (suspension gets engaged by just pedaling), and fairly lightweight.

Lots of folks moving to 29ers (29-inch wheels) which roll faster and can absorb better than the same hardtail/rigig model in 26" wheels. But they are heavier and harder to manuever on tight technical singletrack. Given my terrain and riding, I chose the 26".

Also, splurge on disc brakes - they work well and require only a light touch.

[130R]

Thanks for the replies so far!

I'm still pretty young and have a little bmx still in the veins. which is why i'm leaning toward older rigid mtb's

any opinions on the old Fat Chance's?

I have a Buck Shaver that I use for commuting, but I would like something more "my size" for fire trails and "learning"

I'm totally digging Yo Eddies and Wicked Lites

Thoughts?

TIA!

[DRietz]

I can definitely see situations in which a full suspension rig would he more beneficial than a rigid bike, but not always.

I mean, your body has two forms of natural suspension - arms and legs. When riding over really technical terrain, I pretend to be a cat.

It sounds dumb, but it makes sense because cats use their legs as shock absorbers, bending them as they impact. I use this technique when riding by letting my arms and legs remain loose while putting on the power.

Essentially, given the right technique, the human body offers just as much suspension as a suspension bike with a far smaller price tag.

As far as 29ers and maneuverability, again, it's not a substantial difference in my eyes. It might be because I'm young and reckless, but I can do everything on a 29er that I can on a 26er. It just involves different movements. With 26inch wheels you can steer your bike in the literal sense of the word. You can achieve the same effect on a 29er using your body to lean the bike, rather than the bars to actually turn the bike.

[veloduffer]

One other application where I appreciated a full squishie was riding in the hard packed snow this winter. Because the snow was so deep, you had to wait until the hikers went through the trails and firmed things up. But the trail becomes like a Paris-Roubaix cobble section with unending washboard effect. I switched between my bike and my buddy's hardtail, a huge difference in comfort.

[rugbysecondrow]

I would also add that you can get a quality rigid for a good price, but I think it would take quite a bit more scratch to build a FS bike that is of comparable quality.

If you are just going to F around and have fun on the trails, get a Redline monocog for 300-400 bucks, ride the piss out of it and upgrade as you see fit.

[michael white]

Ok, I'll be the contrarian. I got back into mtn biking this past winter. The terrain here is rocky and lots of roots and I was using a rigid bike, that is a cyclocross bike. I used to ride a rigid mtb many years ago.

I ponied up for a full suspension Trek Fuel EX 8 - makes mtn biking a lot more fun. My old body appreciates it and it gives you confidence on most terrain. The new suspension technology is great, almost no pedal bob (suspension gets engaged by just pedaling), and fairly lightweight.

Lots of folks moving to 29ers (29-inch wheels) which roll faster and can absorb better than the same hardtail/rigig model in 26" wheels. But they are heavier and harder to manuever on tight technical singletrack. Given my terrain and riding, I chose the 26".

Also, splurge on disc brakes - they work well and require only a light touch.

I also have a Fuel Ex . . . mine's a 9.8. These bikes absolutely rip, just like the Spec and Giant equivalents; they are simply great offroad. I was a stick in the mud rigid rider for decades, multiple-Bridgestone owner and the whole nine yards. If you ride off road, the new suspended bikes can make it faster and more fun (you're picking your line rather than struggling to get over everything). But I agree with others who advocate a rigid for a beginner, in order to learn how to do it. A good (steel, in my opinion) rigid mountain bike is also just a very useful kind of bike to have, and can handle around town duties and even loaded touring with aplomb, as well as any sort of offroad you throw at it.

[rugbysecondrow]

I also have a Fuel Ex . . . mine's a 9.8. These bikes absolutely rip just like the Spec and Giant equivalents; they are simply great offroad. I was a stick in the mud rigid rider for decades, multiple-Bridgestone owner and the whole nine yards. If you ride off road, the new suspended bikes can make it faster and more fun (you're picking your line rather than struggling to get over everything). But I agree with others who advocate a rigid for a beginner, in order to learn how to do it. A good (steel, in my opinion) rigid mountain bike is also just a very useful kind of bike to have, and can handle around town duties and even loaded touring with aplomb, as well as any sort of offroad you throw at it.


The MSRP is about $4200. That's a lot of jack! Sounds like good fun though.

[veloduffer]

I also have a Fuel Ex . . . mine's a 9.8. These bikes absolutely rip, just like the Spec and Giant equivalents; they are simply great offroad. I was a stick in the mud rigid rider for decades, multiple-Bridgestone owner and the whole nine yards.

As a former Bridgestoner mtb myself, I thought my purchase was going in the deep end. But a 9.8, my-oh-my that's really jumpin' in with both feet. :beer: :D

[bmeryman]

I tend to think that a hardtail 26er is a great bike to learn on. I agree that's it's easier to learn the basics of mountain biking if you don't have full suspension, but I also think that front suspension is a nice buffer against some of the less fun accidents. I have never ridden a rigid 29er, but I suppose the larger wheels would provide a similar buffer. Either way you'll learn how to pick your lines, hop over obstacles, and maintain momentum while still having some leeway when it comes to hitting rocks and roots that might otherwise throw you over the bars.

Have a great time!

[veloduffer]

Thanks for the replies so far!

I'm still pretty young and have a little bmx still in the veins. which is why i'm leaning toward older rigid mtb's

any opinions on the old Fat Chance's?

I have a Buck Shaver that I use for commuting, but I would like something more "my size" for fire trails and "learning"

I'm totally digging Yo Eddies and Wicked Lites

Thoughts?

TIA!

If I was going rigid or hardtail (heck I still might), I would definitely get a 29er. Looks mucho fun.

[Bob Loblaw]

Depending on the terrain, I might recommend a front suspension. Huge difference in comfort (and hence fatigue) over long bumpy downhills.

BL

[HenryA]

Thanks for the replies so far!

I'm still pretty young and have a little bmx still in the veins. which is why i'm leaning toward older rigid mtb's

any opinions on the old Fat Chance's?

I have a Buck Shaver that I use for commuting, but I would like something more "my size" for fire trails and "learning"

I'm totally digging Yo Eddies and Wicked Lites

Thoughts?

TIA!

Fats may be the finest MTBs ever made anywhere, anytime. They are absolute classics. If you find a nice deal on one, buy it and ride it just as it is.

I loved my Yo and Wicked Lite. Finally they had to go as I couldn't ride the smallish (for me) frames with my old worn out back.