Quick Hitter: What MTB pedals do you use?

[bkboom123]

New to the mtb scene this year, I have been searching around looking at pedals. I am more of a trail rider, hitting some stumps and jumps, sharp turns, etc... So I don't think a pedal where I clip in would be useful to me, as I often am putting my foot down for support around sharp fast turns.

It seems all that is out there on a lot of websites is either $15 plastic platforms or $100+ platforms, made from what I assume is pure gold (since there is not much technology in platform pedals, so that must be what drives the price so high)

Just curious what everyone is riding on their mtb's?

[markie]

Go clipless, err clip in. I find I have so much more control of the bike when I am clipped in. The learning curve may be painful at first, but its worth it.

I like shimano spds because they are cheap and so am I.

[vqdriver]

I'd think the tech would be the strength of the axles and bearings considering the massive forces they take from jumps.

Anyway....

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/sub/141-Pedals+Toe+Clips+And+Straps-Mtb+Platform.aspx?s=1507&mfg=0&closeoutHotdeal=&use=&sort=Default&show=25&pricemin=0&pricemax=500

[Plum Hill]

Time. Pretty simple, don't clog with mud like SPD.

You'll be amazed at what you can ride using clipless pedals.

[Jack Brunk]

Crank Brothers 4 Ti pedals. No matter what the conditions, I never have a problem getting locked in unlocked or staying locked with them. Water, mud or whatever crap they come into contact with they are smooth as silk with little if any maintance.

[fourflys]

Shimano XTR... tried most of the Crank Brother iterations an didn't care for them...

[gdw]

I've gone back to Shimano 747's. I broke my Candies and the newer Shimano models pack up with clay and pebbles when it rains.

[Chousen One]

Crank brothers' QC has gone down the drain, seems like they've devoted all their money to packaging these days. Their customer service and warranty dept. is top notch though, but I'd rather just have a pedal that works without breaking.

Time ATAC XS for the win, all day every day. Adjustable tension, adjustable release angle, mud shedding, well sealed, cleats last forever.

[that guy]

Time!

[xjahx]

Time ATAC XS. I have 12 pair; springs are super easy to replace if need be.

[seatown7]

Speedplay Frogs...I had knee pain at 30 with SPD...I switched to Frogs and have no knee pain at 47. They also clear mud well...I use them for Cross every year...as do many people who are in much faster Cats than me. Crank Bros Eggbeaters is my second choice.

[BryanE]

Crank Brothers.But in your case of hitting stumps and things like that I would reccomend some spuds.
BryanE

[rugbysecondrow]

Crank Brothers Egg Beaters. Easy, functional and reasonably priced. I have CB Pedals on all my bikes, road and MTB alike. They just work.

[gearguywb]

I have used Egg Beaters for several years but lately it seems as if they are getting.....loose. Not sure if that is the right description. Bottom line, they do not feel as "clipped in" as they did. Tried new cleats, no change. Might be time for Time.

[slowandsteady]

Kona Wah Wah if you go with a "sticky" platform pedal. Great to start with and get your skills dialed in then move up to some nice clipless.

[Fixed]

egg beaters
cheers

[Germany_chris]

Deore LX, I don't like to spend money on pedals.

[Grant McLean]

New to the mtb scene this year, I have been searching around looking at pedals. I am more of a trail rider, hitting some stumps and jumps, sharp turns, etc... So I don't think a pedal where I clip in would be useful to me, as I often am putting my foot down for support around sharp fast turns.

Once you get the hang of being clipped in, you'll never understand how you
were able to ride off-road without them. The pedalling and climbing efficiency
is only part of the reason, it's also just being better connected to the bike,
and not having your foot slip off the pedal when you least expect it.

g

[DfCas]

Time ATAC ROC version is more durable than the XS version and cheaper.

[salem]

First, I do you clipless Eggbeaters for more than half my mountain biking. They do have their advantages.

That said, for those that nay-say platforms, have you tried a pinned platform pedal with grippy shoes, like those with stealth rubber designed for rock climbing? If not, you'd be surprised just how much of a connection this combo affords while still allowing the foot body English of an open pedal. There's a reason so many pro downhillers use this set up.

As for pedaling, I use open pedals a lot in winter because I never have trouble keeping my feet warm in boots. On good pinned platforms, I still "ankle" and pull through on the bottom of my pedal stroke, and really only notice a difference if I goof by using far too big a gear for a section, so not my ideal choice for a single speed.

Yes, I still prefer clipless more than half the time, but really, the difference might not be as big as many imagine given the right shoe, platform combo.

[Grant McLean]

the difference might not be as big as many imagine given the right shoe, platform combo.

Yes it is. It's about 30% more. Realize that with flats, to keep your foot
on the pedal during the entire pedal stroke, you have to push down on it.
That means when your non-clipped foot is on the back stroke it's slowing
your power stroke. Clipped in you start to push earlier in the power phase,
and continue further through the stroke. Climbing power is significantly
hindered by not being clipped in.

g

[fourflys]

I have used Egg Beaters for several years but lately it seems as if they are getting.....loose. Not sure if that is the right description. Bottom line, they do not feel as "clipped in" as they did. Tried new cleats, no change. Might be time for Time.

same for me, that's why I never liked them... never felt clipped in, always have some up and down play even with or without shims...

[d_man16]

I'll add it's up to the rider......try some inexpensive egg beaters (they all work about the same and they can be found for 30.00) on the flats and get comfortable with them before you try any log piles teeter totters etc. and then compare them with the platforms. See what you like best and then jump into the expensive boutique game....I'm guessing you'll find out the most practical set up without crushing your pocket book or you ego.

[jh_on_the_cape]

It's like shimano vs campy.

Get mtb shoes and clipless pedals. I go shimano SPD. I have tried almost everything. Shimano 540 pedals are cheap and good. you can clip out no problem.

[jazznap]

Frogs for the extra float

[bozman]

Speedplay Frogs...I had knee pain at 30 with SPD...I switched to Frogs and have no knee pain at 47. They also clear mud well...I use them for Cross every year...as do many people who are in much faster Cats than me.

+1
I love my Frogs.

[alexstar]

TIME ATAC, can't go wrong with any model, although all I buy these days are the Aliums and the ROC ATAC. They function just as well as the spendy ones.

[Ken Robb]

I use Crank Bros, Shimano 737, Performance Campus : flat on one side/SPD on the other, MKS Touring flats, and the MKS HUGE platforms that Rivendell sells as Grip Kings.

I think SPD pedals with decent sized platforms my favorites for clip-ins because the eggbeaters are almost useless until I clip in and sometimes when I'm riding and trying to clip in at the same time they are awkward. I think LOOK ATACs would be good too but I just went down the SPD trail first and saw no reason to change to LOOK.

I read all the theoretical pros/cons of grippy, toothed flat pedals and I think with suitable rubber-soled shoes with pretty smooth treads can sometimes be my favorites for some kind of riding. Your comment about frequently putting a foot down, etc. makes me think Grip Kings might be a good solution for you. You probably have a pair of shoes that will work so look at the $$ you'll save. Plus when you break a chain 10 miles from the road you will be happier walking out in something other than cycling shoes. :) :beer: :banana:

[bkboom123]

well I am waiting for my Formula R1 brakes to come in, so the main mtb is sitting in the basement. I was forced to use my Mongoose from 11 years ago on the trails today and its making me re-think the pedals thing.

All these jumps, pyramids, bridges, tight singletrack.....am I good enough to ride clipped into pedals? :crap:

I am sure some of this had to do with me using a crappy bike thats to small for me, but still

[Larry]

Expedo. Very strong. Uses a Shimano cleat. Very practical and my first pair lasted a long, long time. They come in various models and weights.
Really nice!

[salem]

Yes it is. It's about 30% more. Realize that with flats, to keep your foot
on the pedal during the entire pedal stroke, you have to push down on it.
That means when your non-clipped foot is on the back stroke it's slowing
your power stroke. Clipped in you start to push earlier in the power phase,
and continue further through the stroke. Climbing power is significantly
hindered by not being clipped in.

g

Grant was responding to my comment that spiked platforms with grippy shoes might not give up as much as people think. For now, I'll stick to my comment on this one.

First, years ago, in a bio-mechanics lab, a friend was in on tests with a clipless force pedal. They found trained cyclists with a good spin still maintain very light downward force on the upstroke. Certainly it is a lot less than untrained cyclists, but they never saw anyone with a negative downward force.

Second, more anecdotally, a month or so ago I was part of a group leading Tim Johnson into Hartford during his fund raising advocacy ride. Richard Fries, the announcer for cyclocross worlds and someone who has spent a lot of time watching elite cyclists in addition to once being an international racer himself, was marveling at how smoothly matched Tim and my pedal strokes were. I was on my commuter bike with hiking boots and the pedals off an old ten speed.

Lastly, Grant, when you say 30%, of what is that 30%. It certainly isn't 30% more efficient--that number just wouldn't make sense. More likely, I could see some riders starting the power stroke 30% earlier, but how much off their max force/efficiency are they developing in that extra 30%.
I assume these numbers come from a test and are accurate, but I'd also like to know exactly what equipment was used. My point, again, was that with modern rubber and pinned platforms, the difference vs. your bike when you were a kid is quite vast.

I do find this stuff interesting, so Grant, if you do see this, would you direct us to the source for your numbers? Could be some good reading.

[slowgoing]

Cheapo no-name stainless platforms, combined with shin guards.

I don't trust myself to be able to unclip while doing an endo, or worse, a reverse endo while climbing up a steep slickrock grade. That is by far worth giving up the added control the rest of the time.

[Grant McLean]

Grant was responding to my comment that spiked platforms with grippy shoes might not give up as much as people think. For now, I'll stick to my comment on this one.

First, years ago, in a bio-mechanics lab, a friend was in on tests with a clipless force pedal. They found trained cyclists with a good spin still maintain very light downward force on the upstroke. Certainly it is a lot less than untrained cyclists, but they never saw anyone with a negative downward force.

Second, more anecdotally, a month or so ago I was part of a group leading Tim Johnson into Hartford during his fund raising advocacy ride. Richard Fries, the announcer for cyclocross worlds and someone who has spent a lot of time watching elite cyclists in addition to once being an international racer himself, was marveling at how smoothly matched Tim and my pedal strokes were. I was on my commuter bike with hiking boots and the pedals off an old ten speed.

Lastly, Grant, when you say 30%, of what is that 30%. It certainly isn't 30% more efficient--that number just wouldn't make sense. More likely, I could see some riders starting the power stroke 30% earlier, but how much off their max force/efficiency are they developing in that extra 30%.
I assume these numbers come from a test and are accurate, but I'd also like to know exactly what equipment was used. My point, again, was that with modern rubber and pinned platforms, the difference vs. your bike when you were a kid is quite vast.

I do find this stuff interesting, so Grant, if you do see this, would you direct us to the source for your numbers? Could be some good reading.

I can look for the article, it was in BiciSport (the Italian magazine) a few years
ago. It had all kinds of graphs and data for a dozen or so top pros of the era,
Pantani, Bartoli, etc... showing the force graphs of their pedalling circles.
I recall the difference in the arc being about 30%... not sure i can quote
the exact numbers without looking it up.

Anyway, we're talking about mountain biking, not road cycling, which i
believe for a varied cross country terrain, the short climbs the require
increase in either power or cadence makes more difference with clipless
over steady state pedalling.

Since we're talking anecdotes, i'll give you a few... i commute on flats too.
I can't make it up my driveway out of the underground on my single speed
without being clipped in. I fall over. Clipped in, no problem. Peak power
is a nice thing to have for those steep sections.

Second anecdote, I quite often used to do a mtb ride from the office after
work. I'd get back to work, and trade the mountain bike for the commuter
with flat pedals without changing my clothes from the ride. It never failed
to surprise me that i'd lift my foot off the pedals in the back stroke at
leave a half dozen time in the first 5 minutes of the commute. Seems that
a couple of hours of riding clipped in sets up some sort of pattern,
because this never happens in any other situation. It is certainly possible
to learn to reduce the downward pressure on the rear of the pedal stroke.

g

[salem]

Grant,
I'm with you 100%, not a fan of open pedals on a single speed. I even mentioned that in my original post. It some ways, they are a great tool for training you to stay within an efficient cadence range by shifting. I even used to use them now and again on recovery rides to force me to shift enough.

Arc range of power output sounds like the right parameter for your 30% number. Still, I'd say you are giving up the portion of the stroke where the least power is made. Ballpark from spending a fair amount of time on both, I'd say you give up 1-5% efficiency with good flat pedals and shoes, depend on how you ride them. More loss if you push big gear at low rpm.

So, maybe a better statement from me would be: platforms and good shoes don't have to give up as much as you might think, if you ride them within a moderate rpm range. Guess I've learned to do that without noticing much--I'll even ride some faster group rides on my commuter, and it annoys the heck out of people that don't know my racing history when I manage to keep up.

It would be great if you could dig up that article and post some scans.