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View Full Version : More new-to-Campy questions...


kramnnim
04-04-2011, 11:07 PM
Well, I've been wanting to give Campy a try, after only ever using Shimano. Somewhat unexpectedly won an eBay auction for an older Record 10 group...have a number of questions I figured I should ask while waiting for the FedEx driver to arrive...

Do I have to use Campy specific shift/brake cables/housing? I'm told the shift cable ends are slightly smaller than Shimano...can I just file them down so that they fit in the shifter?

What about chains? There seems to be two widths of Campy 10 speed chains, are they specific to the cassette? Can I just use the 10 speed Dura Ace chains I stocked up on? If not, is there a good alternative that is "quick link" friendly?

Since the left/front shifter (non QS) is more friction like, rather than having indexed clicks like Shimano, I'll be okay using a Shimano FD and crankset, right? (at least until I find the crankset I want...)

What about mixing QS front derailleurs with non-QS shifters? Standard FD with a CT crankset? Does a non-QS compact FD exist? (My shifters and FD are pre-QS, and standard...still not sure if I want to go with a compact crank.) Maybe I'm making this more complicated than I should...

Can you tell the age of a brifter by the text on the body? I see some with "Carbon BB System", some with "Micron", some just say "10 Speed"... Obviously the QS ones are newer...

What does the "Micron" mean, anyway? What about "EPS" and "Ultra Drive"? Is it meaningless like Shimano's Hyperglide, since Uniglide and...whatever IG stood for no longer exist...?

What normally happens during an Ergopower "rebuild"? Are small parts/springs usually replaced, even if they aren't broken, or does a cleaning/regreasing rejuvenate the shifting?

Are there any pros/cons for the Skeleton calipers? Lighter, but harder to clean...what about performance? Does the "D" I see mentioned mean the rear caliper is single pivot?

What about square taper vs. UT cranks? Seems like a lot of people like the square taper BBs for the smoothness...but UT are lighter...is there anything else to consider?

Can the polished silver alloy parts generally be repolished, or is there clear anodizing that would have to be removed?

Hmm, this list ended up longer than I thought.

oliver1850
04-04-2011, 11:34 PM
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fogrider
04-04-2011, 11:53 PM
welcome to campy! I think the real difference from square taper to ultra drive is stiffness. sure its a lighter, but I think its the stiffness that the big plus to the out board bearings.

Chousen One
04-04-2011, 11:58 PM
Micron, as on late model Chorus QS shifters refers to the fact that you can still dump/jump multiple cogs at a time, vs. one cog per shift with shimano/sram. Some of the lower level gruppos dropped this and use a cheaper mech called "Escape" much to the dismay of many, which only allows you to shift one cog at a time.

EPS is a treatment of the chainring IIRC, and Ultra Drive has something to do with the shift pins/ramps, something like that. Latest versions have both I believe.

UT Cranks are an external bearing design, with the bearings actually as a part of the cranks. The "BB" for this design is really just a pair of cups.

You can file the cable ends and make it work, but just grab some campy cables and call it a day.

djg
04-05-2011, 07:17 AM
The 10 speed cables don't cost all that much and they work great. Why muck around?

oldpotatoe
04-05-2011, 07:49 AM
Well, I've been wanting to give Campy a try, after only ever using Shimano. Somewhat unexpectedly won an eBay auction for an older Record 10 group...have a number of questions I figured I should ask while waiting for the FedEx driver to arrive...

Do I have to use Campy specific shift/brake cables/housing? I'm told the shift cable ends are slightly smaller than Shimano...can I just file them down so that they fit in the shifter?

Use Campagnolo specific der cables, Jagwire are great, less than Campagnolo. Use 5mm housing.

What about chains? There seems to be two widths of Campy 10 speed chains, are they specific to the cassette? Can I just use the 10 speed Dura Ace chains I stocked up on? If not, is there a good alternative that is "quick link" friendly?

The 6.2mm Campagnolo chain has been gone for about 5 years. ALL 10s chains are now 5.9mm. KMC works great, has a snap link. Least expensive compatible cogset and chain. DA chains are shiney, more expensive, don't work any better or last any longer than a 5700(105 level) chain.

Since the left/front shifter (non QS) is more friction like, rather than having indexed clicks like Shimano, I'll be okay using a Shimano FD and crankset, right? (at least until I find the crankset I want...)

For 10s, Record or Chorus, you can use just about any FD/crank combo.

What about mixing QS front derailleurs with non-QS shifters? Standard FD with a CT crankset? Does a non-QS compact FD exist? (My shifters and FD are pre-QS, and standard...still not sure if I want to go with a compact crank.) Maybe I'm making this more complicated than I should...

Use any standard FD, 'Compact' cranks were around way before 'compact' front ders.

Can you tell the age of a brifter by the text on the body? I see some with "Carbon BB System", some with "Micron", some just say "10 Speed"... Obviously the QS ones are newer...

What does the "Micron" mean, anyway? What about "EPS" and "Ultra Drive"? Is it meaningless like Shimano's Hyperglide, since Uniglide and...whatever IG stood for no longer exist...?

Market-speak, means nuthin with regards to compatibility, Record and Chorus.

What normally happens during an Ergopower "rebuild"? Are small parts/springs usually replaced, even if they aren't broken, or does a cleaning/regreasing rejuvenate the shifting?

New shift springs and perhaps a RH spring carier(splits), replace with a 'Ultra one, fiber, breaks less often. NEVER neewd a shift disc regardless of what Branford and Licktons says.

Are there any pros/cons for the Skeleton calipers? Lighter, but harder to clean...what about performance? Does the "D" I see mentioned mean the rear caliper is single pivot?

Lighter-yep, D-differential, single pivot rear.

What about square taper vs. UT cranks? Seems like a lot of people like the square taper BBs for the smoothness...but UT are lighter...is there anything else to consider?

UT was a market decision since square taper was perceived as 'old fashioned'. It may be 'stiffer' when measured by a very precise, gorilla machine but to us mere mortals it means nada.

Can the polished silver alloy parts generally be repolished, or is there clear anodizing that would have to be removed?

Hmm, this list ended up longer than I thought.

Congratulations in getting Campagnolo

saab2000
04-05-2011, 07:52 AM
Get the Ultra Low Friction cables. I think that's all they offer now anyway. Trying to use Shimano cables is more hassle (with filing the ends down) than it's worth. The Campagnolo cables work great, especially the latest generation of them.

The front derailleur thing is a bit of a crapshoot. Not sure of the swing geometry of the Shimano. It may work perfectly or it may barely work at all.

I can't speak of the chain with Shimano chains but the Campagnolo 10-speed chain is fine, especially the 5.9 mm one. That's all they offer now anyway AFAIK. It is slightly narrower than the 6.2 which has the effect of reducing cassette noise. I think that's why it was introduced. It is not cassette-specific. Follow Campagnolo's instructions on installation. I don't know anything about Shimano chains, but there is no doubt that today's narrower chains need to be installed correctly to be safe. This has always been the case but it is even more evident with the narrower, higher precision chains being used nowadays.

wtex
04-05-2011, 08:22 AM
Guys:

I'm also fairly new to the Campy stuff, so thank you for the questions, and the answers, this was very useful.

Chad

ultraman6970
04-05-2011, 09:54 AM
If you can't fine campy cables just get the jagwires ones for shimano and fill the ends so they fit, try to get them fit kind'a lose.

THe reason for tis is because campagnolo ends/heads are thinner and u dont want to get the head stuck in the lever maybe forever. For sure u can put a shimano head in the campagnolo lever, the issue will be to take it off. So fill them and test the fit ok?

Good luck.

buldogge
04-05-2011, 10:32 AM
I buy the Jagwire racer kits when I need/want colored cable housing.

They used to be dual ended, but now I just buy a pair of Campy shift cables along with it...final cost is about $35-40, about the same as a complete Campy set.

-Mark in St. Louis

kramnnim
04-05-2011, 07:51 PM
Thanks for the help, everyone!

New shift springs and perhaps a RH spring carier(splits), replace with a 'Ultra one, fiber, breaks less often.

Is this the better fiber one?

http://i.imgur.com/GtQ3i.jpg

Two springs per shifter, and they are left/right specific?

ultraman6970
04-05-2011, 07:59 PM
Get the aluminum one, the fiber one will crank at some point anyways. Mine was not cracked but the shifting was mushy. Put the Aluminum one and came back to life.

oldpotatoe
04-06-2011, 07:50 AM
Thanks for the help, everyone!



Is this the better fiber one?

http://i.imgur.com/GtQ3i.jpg

Two springs per shifter, and they are left/right specific?

That's the one

oldpotatoe
04-06-2011, 07:52 AM
Get the aluminum one, the fiber one will crank at some point anyways. Mine was not cracked but the shifting was mushy. Put the Aluminum one and came back to life.

The aluminum ones aren't aluminum but some sort of pot metal. The metal posts break all the time and then with the shoulders, they split at the shoulders. Of the 200 or so 'Ultra' ones I have installed, I have seen 1 break, split.

Black Dog
04-06-2011, 12:40 PM
Thanks for the help, everyone!



Is this the better fiber one?

http://i.imgur.com/GtQ3i.jpg

Two springs per shifter, and they are left/right specific?

Anyone know a good online source for these? I have no campy LBS in my area. Oldpotatoe would you sell them to a fellow forum member? (Please forgive me if asking this is out of bounds)

kramnnim
04-06-2011, 03:15 PM
I got that picture from an eBay auction...but yeah, I'd rather buy from a fellow forumite.


I have another Campy problem now...I bid what I thought was a low amount on a Chorus 11 group before I went to work today (no internets at work), and ended up winning. Who knew a "used 200 miles" Chorus 11 group would only sell for $670... Not sure which one to keep now...

bambam
04-08-2011, 08:23 AM
keep both, buy the rest of the stuff that goes around the group and have another ride.

I got a record 11 group just waiting for my next frame.

Also thanks for the answers to the campy questions from all the responders. I've be riding campy since 09 and now I have more campy than shimano.