PDA

View Full Version : Cutting seized spokes out of a wheel


hockeybike
03-24-2011, 07:40 AM
So I have a set of Mavic Open Pros laced to 32h ultegra hubs with spokes that are frozen to the nipples. Will I/can I damage anything but my pliers by cutting the spokes? Just wondering because I'd like to re-sell the hubs and rims to re-coup my loss on the fubar'd wheelset. Note: I can't loosen any of the spokes before cutting because they are that frozen, they just kind of twist in the hub if you try to turn the nipple, even after getting hit with linseed oil and pb cleaner

Thanks.

oldpotatoe
03-24-2011, 08:19 AM
So I have a set of Mavic Open Pros laced to 32h ultegra hubs with spokes that are frozen to the nipples. Will I/can I damage anything but my pliers by cutting the spokes? Just wondering because I'd like to re-sell the hubs and rims to re-coup my loss on the fubar'd wheelset. Note: I can't loosen any of the spokes before cutting because they are that frozen, they just kind of twist in the hub if you try to turn the nipple, even after getting hit with linseed oil and pb cleaner

Thanks.

If the rim in tensioned, you 'can' warp a rim and worst case, you can break a flange but ya got no choice-yes? Cut the left side first, alternating around the wheel, opposite sides type thing then the same with the RH side.

Benjamin
03-24-2011, 08:50 AM
As said above, cutting tensioned spokes will most likely destroy the rims, and could destroy more delicate hubs.

I'd try loosening the seized spokes first: Soak the spoke/nipple joint in penetrating oil for a while. If that doesn't do it, try heating the spoke with a small torch.

You might also want to try turning the nipple with needle-nose vice grips instead of a spoke tool, for a little more leverage.

The spoke/nipple joint is so small, I can't imagine those methods would fail to free it up.

keevon
03-24-2011, 08:53 AM
If you cut tensioned spokes, PLEASE wear eye protection at the very least.

hockeybike
03-24-2011, 08:58 AM
Thanks for the advice, all--as always, OP is a fountain of knowledge. I'll get some goggles and cut away. It'll be cathartic, or something like that.

Benjamin, unfortunately, the spokes are really stuck in there-turning htem just turns them in the hub flange. I'd try heating em up, but there's so many oils on the spokes and nipples from my attempts at getting penetrating greases to work that I'm not quite sure how safe that is...

Ken Robb
03-24-2011, 09:10 AM
Thanks for the advice, all--as always, OP is a fountain of knowledge. I'll get some goggles and cut away. It'll be cathartic, or something like that.

Benjamin, unfortunately, the spokes are really stuck in there-turning htem just turns them in the hub flange. I'd try heating em up, but there's so many oils on the spokes and nipples from my attempts at getting penetrating greases to work that I'm not quite sure how safe that is...

I can't visualize spokes in a wheel "turning at the hub flange."
I have some needle-nose vise grips that might break them loose.

hockeybike
03-24-2011, 09:22 AM
Ken,

Think of it this way: Aluminum spokes galvanically bonded to stainless steel spokes. Penetrating oils won't budget the spokes, so if you turn the nipple, the whole spoke twists. I tried clamping the spoke w/ a needlenose plier and then twisting the spoke wrench, but all it did was round the nipple (d'oh!).

The wheelset is fubar, but at least the hubs are buttery smooth...

jaykosta
03-24-2011, 10:40 AM
I suggest pulling the cassette before cutting the spokes .... just in case there is any trouble getting it off, so new spokes can be installed.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

sean
03-24-2011, 10:46 AM
If you have to cut all the spokes, alternate from side to side. It's not a total solve for "shocking" the rim, but makes it a bit better.

Ken Robb
03-24-2011, 11:15 AM
Ken,

Think of it this way: Aluminum spokes galvanically bonded to stainless steel spokes. Penetrating oils won't budget the spokes, so if you turn the nipple, the whole spoke twists. I tried clamping the spoke w/ a needlenose plier and then twisting the spoke wrench, but all it did was round the nipple (d'oh!).

The wheelset is fubar, but at least the hubs are buttery smooth...

How about one vise grip to hold the spoke and another to turn the mangled nipple?

hockeybike
03-30-2011, 09:55 AM
Finally got around to cutting the hubs out. Is checking for rim damage as simple as lining the rim up against another 'true' wheel and seeing that it all lines up alright, or have I missed something?

Btw, zero luck getting the spokes out of the nipples, even with a vise clamp on a spoke and a wrench (just a standard one, not a spoke one) on the nipple. They're bonded for life.

thwart
03-30-2011, 10:21 AM
To test I lay rims on a 'proven flat' surface.

Middle of garage floor usually suffices... :cool:

Grant McLean
03-30-2011, 10:24 AM
have I missed something?


no, you didn't miss anything.

I likely cut my first hub out of a wheel back in 1982,
and it doesn't damage the rim, not so i've ever experienced
it happening in almost 30 years.

As was mentioned, for a rear wheel, start with the lower
tension spokes on the non-drive side, and if it's a freewheel
type hub, make sure you remove it first!

-g

William
03-30-2011, 10:25 AM
I like using squirrels...but that's just me. :)





William

hockeybike
03-30-2011, 10:25 AM
To test I lay rims on a 'proven flat' surface.

Middle of garage floor usually suffices... :cool:

120 year old house...flat is relative :rolleyes: