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Hawker
03-18-2011, 06:22 PM
I'm building a used Landshark and it doesn't have a drain hole in the BB.

Should I drill one? What size?

Thanks.

David Kirk
03-18-2011, 06:28 PM
yes. An 1/8" or so would be fine.

dave

salem
03-18-2011, 07:18 PM
In case you aren't used to drilling metal, it would be good to start with a center punch to avoid the drill bit walking. Also, cutting oil is best, but any oil is far better than none.

oldpotatoe
03-19-2011, 06:17 AM
I'm building a used Landshark and it doesn't have a drain hole in the BB.

Should I drill one? What size?

Thanks.

Do it all the time...1/8 inch is a good choice.

Hawker
03-19-2011, 08:14 AM
Thanks guys.

wc1934
03-19-2011, 08:39 AM
Was thinking about this myself - my question is - if it is NEW, would drilling effect the warranty ?

oldpotatoe
03-19-2011, 09:34 AM
Was thinking about this myself - my question is - if it is NEW, would drilling effect the warranty ?

Doesn't for Moots or Waterford...

Ralph
03-19-2011, 10:45 AM
Dumb question maybe....but if it needs a hole, why don't the frame builders put one there...before frame is painted?

Dlevy05
03-19-2011, 11:06 AM
they're lazy. I think I may need to drill holes in the chainstay of my SOMA, but I think this falls along the lines of manufacturers not rustproofing the inside of their frames from the get-go... saves $$$

David Kirk
03-19-2011, 11:45 AM
Dumb question maybe....but if it needs a hole, why don't the frame builders put one there...before frame is painted?

The better ones do.

dave

Satellite
03-20-2011, 09:10 AM
The better ones do.

dave
Moots doesn't put a drain hole, I would consider them one of the better ones.

Instead of just a hole here is another idea:

http://www.actiontec.us/attack.htm
Dry Valve

The Dry Valve was designed to eliminate water contamination of the BB bearings. It is inserted into the bottom of the bottom bracket shell at the lowest place in the bicycle frame, were the water collects. Includes valve insertion tool. Weight: 2 gr.

Satellite

David Kirk
03-20-2011, 09:34 AM
Moots doesn't put a drain hole, I would consider them one of the better ones.

Instead of just a hole here is another idea:

http://www.actiontec.us/attack.htm
Dry Valve

The Dry Valve was designed to eliminate water contamination of the BB bearings. It is inserted into the bottom of the bottom bracket shell at the lowest place in the bicycle frame, were the water collects. Includes valve insertion tool. Weight: 2 gr.

Satellite


They are indeed one of the best - no question. That said a drain hole is still a very good idea in my opinion. Having a hole there, instead of a valve, encourages and allows a small amount of air circulation that will help keep water from collecting and get condensation to a minimum.

Dave

dave thompson
03-20-2011, 10:06 AM
They are indeed one of the best - no question. That said a drain hole is still a very good idea in my opinion. Having a hole there, instead of a valve, encourages and allows a small amount of air circulation that will help keep water from collecting and get condensation to a minimum.

Dave
Agree 100%. In addition, I insert a short length of plastic/neoprene/fuel line tubing in the hole, protruding maybe 1/2-3/4" which will allow drainage and air circulation whilst (olde English) preventing water entrance through the hole.

zennmotion
03-20-2011, 06:07 PM
Moots doesn't put a drain hole, I would consider them one of the better ones.

Instead of just a hole here is another idea:

http://www.actiontec.us/attack.htm
Dry Valve

The Dry Valve was designed to eliminate water contamination of the BB bearings. It is inserted into the bottom of the bottom bracket shell at the lowest place in the bicycle frame, were the water collects. Includes valve insertion tool. Weight: 2 gr.

Satellite

Or just do it old school and shove a presta valve cap in there if you're concerned about water entering- I do this on my cross bike and MTB if I'm likely to be going through puddles and streams and such. Just remember to remove it after the ride to drain anything that got in.

Hawker
03-21-2011, 02:27 PM
Great ideas, thanks gentlemen.

firerescuefin
03-21-2011, 02:50 PM
What type of bit would be required. Do you have to use a drill press. I am considering going by a machine shop, as the risk/reward does not seem in my favor (with me doing it)

dave thompson
03-21-2011, 03:05 PM
What type of bit would be required. Do you have to use a drill press. I am considering going by a machine shop, as the risk/reward does not seem in my favor (with me doing it)
Any good drill bit of the appropriate size wanted, meant for drilling metal will do nicely.

A drill press isn't needed. If you've got good hand control you can flip the bike upside down and drill the hole. Best to remove the bottom bracket, which you need to do anyway because it's time to check it out and make sure everything in there is OK and regrease/Ti prep/teflon tape the threads. :) Use a center punch to mark the location of the hole so your bit doesn't wander around when it's trying to bite. Easy pressure on the drill, a little oil, let the bit do the work.

pdxplosif1
12-06-2011, 07:26 PM
Are serottas usually drilled? My CSI is not. guess Im going to have to get in there remove the BB. Im slightly concerned the BB Is going to be seized now like the bracket in my Colnago Master frame. Getting that thing free ended up being quite a wrestling match...
also,
does anyone know about installing plastic cable guides on the BB lug? will a hole have to be drilled and tapped for this as well?
gracias

tiretrax
12-06-2011, 07:50 PM
The plastic guides I've seen are held in with a small screw.

coelacant
12-06-2011, 10:41 PM
Yes. I'd use the plastic guide as a template for the hole. an M5 tap is a good tool to have. Chasing threads on new frames and taping holes for bells and such on stem is fun.


also,
does anyone know about installing plastic cable guides on the BB lug? will a hole have to be drilled and tapped for this as well?
gracias[/QUOTE]