bad to use both grease and anti seize?

[rinconryder]

I just installed the BB on a Moots frame and coated it with anti-seize...not too much though, at least not as much as I would have put were I using grease. I was thinking about taking it off and reinstalling with a full coat of grease. Is this okay? Thanks.

Wes

[AngryScientist]

stick to one or the other to avoid compatibility issues. dont be afraid to go heavy on the anti-seize, coat all the exposed threads to prevent the dissimilar metal direct contact.

that's what i wound up doing with mine, and it came out after a full season with no effort this winter for an overhaul, so no worries.

[11.4]

Antiseize is nothing more than fine metal flakes in a grease. The problem with mixing grease and antiseize is no more or less than the problem of mixing two potentially different greases. A bike is scarcely testing the limits of antiseizes -- many of them that we buy and use on our bikes are tested for use in jet turbines where they are frozen at forty thousand feet, heated to 800 degrees, subjected to extreme stress, moisture, bird fragments, whatever. However, if you mix grease and antiseize you do dilute out the metal flakes. They are all that gives you the antiseize properties by avoiding corrosion from differing electronegativities of adjacent metals. So I'd just use antiseize. Frankly. It's a good grease and because of the flakes it doesn't flow out or get washed out as rapidly as any other grease, so it simply lasts longer than most other greases for situations like fender eyelet bosses, bottom brackets, water bottle cage bosses, and the like. I just automatically reach for it for most applications that don't involve bearings. The stuff is cheap and works well.

[Dekonick]

Antiseize is nothing more than fine metal flakes in a grease. The problem with mixing grease and antiseize is no more or less than the problem of mixing two potentially different greases. A bike is scarcely testing the limits of antiseizes -- many of them that we buy and use on our bikes are tested for use in jet turbines where they are frozen at forty thousand feet, heated to 800 degrees, subjected to extreme stress, moisture, bird fragments, whatever. However, if you mix grease and antiseize you do dilute out the metal flakes. They are all that gives you the antiseize properties by avoiding corrosion from differing electronegativities of adjacent metals. So I'd just use antiseize. Frankly. It's a good grease and because of the flakes it doesn't flow out or get washed out as rapidly as any other grease, so it simply lasts longer than most other greases for situations like fender eyelet bosses, bottom brackets, water bottle cage bosses, and the like. I just automatically reach for it for most applications that don't involve bearings. The stuff is cheap and works well.

+1

Antisieze is grease.

[gasman]

Antiseize is nothing more than fine metal flakes in a grease. The problem with mixing grease and antiseize is no more or less than the problem of mixing two potentially different greases. A bike is scarcely testing the limits of antiseizes -- many of them that we buy and use on our bikes are tested for use in jet turbines where they are frozen at forty thousand feet, heated to 800 degrees, subjected to extreme stress, moisture, bird fragments, whatever. However, if you mix grease and antiseize you do dilute out the metal flakes. They are all that gives you the antiseize properties by avoiding corrosion from differing electronegativities of adjacent metals. So I'd just use antiseize. Frankly. It's a good grease and because of the flakes it doesn't flow out or get washed out as rapidly as any other grease, so it simply lasts longer than most other greases for situations like fender eyelet bosses, bottom brackets, water bottle cage bosses, and the like. I just automatically reach for it for most applications that don't involve bearings. The stuff is cheap and works well.

The knowledge here never ceases to amaze me.

[DHallerman]

I just automatically reach for it for most applications that don't involve bearings.

Okay, but here's a basic question I haven't figured out yet:

How do you apply anti-seize to a small screw or bolt without getting it on your hands?

I mean, the brush that comes in the jar of anti-seize is way too big for small screws. I typically use cotton swabs for such screws, but even then it's big (like for the screw that attaches a bottom bracket cable guide to the frame).

Or is it worth putting anti-seize in a small grease gun, like the Dualco one I use for Phil Wood grease (which I buy by the tub)?

Dave, who doesn't mind getting fresh Phil grease on his fingers but copper anti-seize seems worse off on his dancing phalanges

[CaptStash]

Anti seize can be applied without getting it on your hands? I have never heard of such a feat! :hello:

[Steve in SLO]

Okay, but here's a basic question I haven't figured out yet:

How do you apply anti-seize to a small screw or bolt without getting it on your hands?

[/I]
Like this:

[dave thompson]

Okay, but here's a basic question I haven't figured out yet:

How do you apply anti-seize to a small screw or bolt without getting it on your hands?

I mean, the brush that comes in the jar of anti-seize is way too big for small screws. I typically use cotton swabs for such screws, but even then it's big (like for the screw that attaches a bottom bracket cable guide to the frame).

Or is it worth putting anti-seize in a small grease gun, like the Dualco one I use for Phil Wood grease (which I buy by the tub)?

Dave, who doesn't mind getting fresh Phil grease on his fingers but copper anti-seize seems worse off on his dancing phalanges
Anti-seize isn't really necessary on small threaded fittings as there's not a great deal of torque or stress on those bolts/screws, the likelihood of seizure is very small so regular grease or heavy oil works very well. If you really want to put anti-seize on those small fittings, use a q-tip to apply it in the female holes. (really! that's a technical term!)

[rinconryder]

What is a good anti-seize to use? I was given and used a very small tube of Finish Line Ti Prep but there wasn't enough to completely coat the bottom bracket, hence wondering if I could use grease as well. Now that I know I am going to use anti-seize and will be buying it, any recommendations? Thanks again for the input - constantly reminded why this is such a great site! :beer:

[dave thompson]

What is a good anti-seize to use? I was given and used a very small tube of Finish Line Ti Prep but there wasn't enough to completely coat the bottom bracket, hence wondering if I could use grease as well. Now that I know I am going to use anti-seize and will be buying it, any recommendations? Thanks again for the input - constantly reminded why this is such a great site! :beer:
Any good copper based anti seize from your local auto parts store. More than enough for a lifetime of bikes.

[Louis]

Park makes some that works well enough for me:

http://www.biketiresdirect.com/productimages/images450/ptasz-1.jpg

[11.4]

Anti-seize isn't really necessary on small threaded fittings as there's not a great deal of torque or stress on those bolts/screws, the likelihood of seizure is very small so regular grease or heavy oil works very well. If you really want to put anti-seize on those small fittings, use a q-tip to apply it in the female holes. (really! that's a technical term!)

It doesn't take a lot of torque or stress to have metals gall or cross-oxidize. So yes, I'd definitely use it on those small threaded bits. I just put the stuff in a small jar and use a flux brush. You can even cut the flux brush down if you want, but generally the idea is to completely cover the contact area with antiseize, and use a rag and solvent to clean off whatever squeezes out.

[DHallerman]

Anti-seize isn't really necessary on small threaded fittings as there's not a great deal of torque or stress on those bolts/screws, the likelihood of seizure is very small so regular grease or heavy oil works very well. If you really want to put anti-seize on those small fittings, use a q-tip to apply it in the female holes. (really! that's a technical term!)

Ah, yes -- normally I use grease for small bolts/screws.

But I'm building up a Merlin now, and just thought that steel bolts/screws going into titanium are better off with anti-seize.

Male parts, female holes -- universal logic applies everywhere.

Dave, who prefers copper anti-seize to nickel anti-seize and knows that for bike work there are reasons to choose one over the other but doesn't remember them right now

[Dekonick]

use nitrile gloves
go to Pep Boys, Amarican Auto, NAPA, whatever auto store and look for copper antisieze in a tube - about the size of a roll of quaters - and you can use it like chap stick... or just buy the smallest can and you will have a lifetime supply. Either way, you are looking at $5-10 bucks. Ti-prep is just overpriced product in a tube with a bike pitcure etc... Do you think they mix that crap in a back shed or just order it from the same guy that sells it for less at the auto store? (Hint - the folks at ti-prep aren't chemists...)

Save some $$ and just go to the local auto store. If you must, you can get ti-prep and you can also overpay for Park screw drivers if you wish.

:)

Park screw drivers do have cool blue handles... I will admit that much... :beer: