Help Removing Stuck Dropout Screw

[DHallerman]

I just bought a frameset off this board that has horizontal dropouts -- and I need help removing one of the rear dropout screws.

With one dropout, the screw was easy to remove in the standard way, with a phillips head screwdriver.

But on the other dropout, half the screw inside the dropout is missing -- so there's no head. And the part of the screw normally outside the dropout is also missing, with its end flush with the outside of the dropout.

I've tried grabbing the only part of the screw that shows -- inside the dropout -- with pliers. But the space is so narrow, that the only pliers I can get in there are small needle-point pliers, and they can't seem to quite grasp the screw.

So, any suggestions for removing this broken dropout screw?

Dave, who would also want to know what size tap he should use for dropout threads since they clearly need a cleaning once he's done

[ultraman6970]

U might be able to use those tools to take out busted screws, cant remember the name but probably u know what im talking about.U put it in a drill and then drill the screw out,

About the tap I believe is not metric but cant remmeber the size. sorry.

[biker72]

Easyout (http://crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html)

This method is more difficult with smaller screws.

[alancw3]

if it is a campy 1010a or b dropout, if i remember correctly the thread size is 3mm of fine thread. if you have the correct size tap you could run it against the screw and continue turning and hopefully that would force the screw to unscrew. you could also try a new screw in lieu of a tap. i would first put plenty of penetrating oil on both sides. hope this helps.

[Ken Robb]

can you file flats on the exposed bolt and use a small wrench to turn it?

[bobswire]

Can you use some needle point and put a bend or kink on the end of it then unscrew it by hand.
http://i51.tinypic.com/flivq9.jpg

[Dave Wages]

The thread pitch on that screw is M3 x 0.5. I've had mixed success drilling old screws out. If you try this, the best way is to clamp the dropout in a vise with some way to support the rest of the bike, then with plenty of cutting fluid, carefully drill through the screw with a slightly smaller drill bit than the actual hole size. Sometimes, when you get close, the drill bit will actually spin the old screw out, but if not, you can clean the threads out with the M3 x 0.5 tap.

Good luck,
Dave

[oliver1850]

.

[Dave Wages]

Just FWIW, I've tried most of the other methods suggested here, and almost none of them work.

Usually, if the adjuster bolt is broken off, the remaining piece is either frozen in the dropout or the buggered threads from the break are going to get stuck when you try to thread it out. Cutting a flat in the screw is almost impossible with such a thin screw, so that is pretty tough unless the screw is moving really freely. The vise grips have a hard time holding the screw and even then, you can only turn the screw a tiny fraction of a turn each time you grab it.

Like I said, I've tried most of these, and in the end, I ended up drilling the screw out 90% of the time.

My two cents.

[PaulE]

and see if you can get a left handed drill bit that you can use with the drill in reverse. Then if the drill grabs into the broken screw, it will actually unscrew it when it catches. If not, don't worry. If you use a right handed drill bit and it catches the screw, it will end up screwing it in further until pushing it all the way out through the other end of the dropout.

Take your time and good luck. Let us know what happens.

[thwart]

And the take-home message is: you should grease your drop-out screw threads... do it today.

[jaykosta]

Maybe try sawing a screwdriver slot in the exposed end.
If there are any jewelry makers or repair people around maybe ask if you can borrow (or rent) their 'frame saw' with a fine tooth blade installed - these use very thin blades and should be able to cut a decent slot. Be sure to have them explain how to use it - it is different than a hacksaw....

Or maybe just take the bike frame to their shop and pay a few bucks to have them cut a slot - about 5 minutes work.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

[Louis]

How about if you just leave it as is, and use the OK side screw to adjust the axle angle?

[DHallerman]

Thanks for the all the suggestions here.

I forgot to mention that the part of the screw that's now flush with the outside of the dropout looks rusted or at least "frozen" there. So a good suggestion like from Bobswire -- love the drawing -- might not work.

So I think I'll try a combo of penetrating fluid and a left-handed drill bit.

Worst case, I'll get this bad adjusting screw out but mess-up the dropout-screw hole. So then, I'll just use the dropouts without any screws.

That should work okay, right?

Dave, who loves a good semi-vertical drop-out

[Black Dog]

If the back end of the screw is broken then it is very likely that the part remaining inside the dropout near the back end is bent. You should try to turn it so the back end comes out a bit and then grab it with a pair of pliers at the back end of the dropout. You can cut a slot in the all ready exposed end with a dremel and use a flat head screw driver to get the screw to turn. Soak it all with penetrating oil 1st. Good luck.

[Louis]

That should work okay, right?

Maybe. Depends on whether the back ends of the dropout slots are aligned or not.

[hookookadoo]

I have a similar issue as the OP except I am dealing with a fairly rusty(see pic) dropout screw on a 90’s Colorado TG. Wondering whether I try to extract it or maybe just leave well enough alone as the back wheel is in alignment- ie don’t fix it if it’s not broken. It just seems so wrong to leave it that way. Thoughts?

Thanks

JBM

[e-RICHIE]

1) Center punch the end.
2) Send a drill bit through.
3) Tap, or retap as the case may be.

It’s a quick fix.





I have a similar issue as the OP except I am dealing with a fairly rusty(see pic) dropout screw on a 90’s Colorado TG. Wondering whether I try to extract it or maybe just leave well enough alone as the back wheel is in alignment- ie don’t fix it if it’s not broken. It just seems so wrong to leave it that way. Thoughts?

Thanks

JBM

[thwart]

I have a similar issue as the OP except I am dealing with a fairly rusty(see pic) dropout screw on a 90’s Colorado TG. Wondering whether I try to extract it or maybe just leave well enough alone as the back wheel is in alignment- ie don’t fix it if it’s not broken. It just seems so wrong to leave it that way. Thoughts?

Thanks

JBM

I owned an early 90's Colorado TG for several years; IIRC it has a semi horizontal dropout, so the screw is sort of optional. Cosmetic issue, in other words.

Great frameset, BTW.

Here's a shot of the dropout of one on eBay right now...

[Gsinill]

Hard to tell from the picture, but looks like the head is still intact?

If so:
Soak with Kroil, wait a few days, soak with Kroil, wait a few days, soak with Kroil, wait a few days, soak with Kroil, wait a few days...
Grab the head with good vise grip pliers and it should turn.
If that does not work, you can still drill it out.

[Spaghetti Legs]

What’s the other end look like? If it’s not rusted and not screwed in all the way you can consider a PBlaster soak, screw in further from the inside, so the rusted end protrudes out further, allowing for better cleanup. You then might be able to remove the screw normally.

I am a basement shop hacker and recently removed a buggered dropout screw from a Rossin frame. From the hacker perspective (e-Richie is most emphatically not in this category), it’s difficult to center punch such a small screw. I ended up slowly and carefully drilling out the screw but still gummed up the threads. I haven’t gotten around to building guy the frame yet but the new screw seems to hold in place with some Teflon tape.

In the case of your bike and with my level of skill and would clean up the rest and do everything short of drilling if the bike is otherwise OK.

[unterhausen]

the internet says that a mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid works better than the commercial penetrants. I have never tried it.

I would leave it, are you sure you can replace it if you get it out?

[hookookadoo]

Excellent. Thanks all. Thwart gets the prize! I took a pic of the underside and the tip/bottom of the screw doesn’t even show through so it is purely cosmetic. Plan will be to de rust and then go from there but seems no matter what I do it won’t impact wheel placement/alignment.

[bart998]

You said you can put needle nose pliers on it but need more grip? Needle nose vise grips.... https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-long-nose-locking-pliers-63870.html

[Overshot]

Hard to tell from the picture, but looks like the head is still intact?

If so:
Soak with Kroil, wait a few days, soak with Kroil, wait a few days, soak with Kroil, wait a few days, soak with Kroil, wait a few days...
Grab the head with good vise grip pliers and it should turn.
If that does not work, you can still drill it out.



Definitely let it soak for 1-2 days with aerokroil. That stuff + time is incredible. Spray it a couple times so it stays good and wet