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terrytnt
02-03-2011, 08:20 AM
This is my second round of tubeless tires (Fusion 3) and one wheel (my rear) is not holding air as long as it should (i.e., needs to refill with an hour).

My process:
1. mount tire on rim
2. apply soapy water between both sides of rim and tire
3. inflat with CO2 to quickly expand tire (lots of pops as the tire seals against the rim)

I do not use sealant... never did last year but always had to inflat tires before a long ride (which is fine for me)

As noted above, my front tire seals fine without sealant, but the rear seems not to seat as well...

thoughts or tips?

LegendRider
02-03-2011, 08:47 AM
If you're using non-tubeless specific rims, you will likely have to use sealant in my experience. If the wheels are designed for tubeless tires, then check the valve. I got a warranty replacement of a Shimano valve after I had some difficulty with the same problem.

dekindy
02-03-2011, 08:57 AM
Wheel information?

terrytnt
02-03-2011, 09:34 AM
Sorry guys...

I have Fulcrum Racing Zero Rims. Last year I had similar problems with the rear wheel holding air beyond one day. Front tire held air for several days.

I want to avoid using sealant... messy! You bring up a good point, I had been thinking it could be the value stem and/or mechanism, assuming the rims were fine.

oldpotatoe
02-03-2011, 09:35 AM
Sorry guys...

I have Fulcrum Racing Zero Rims. Last year I had similar problems with the rear wheel holding air beyond one day. Front tire held air for several days.

I want to avoid using sealant... messy! You bring up a good point, I had been thinking it could be the value stem and/or mechanism, assuming the rims were fine.

Ya suppose y'all got a hole in the tire? Try the tire on the front maybe?

terrytnt
02-03-2011, 09:49 AM
Tires are new... just mounted virgin Fusion 3's

Likes2ridefar
02-03-2011, 10:05 AM
This is my second round of tubeless tires (Fusion 3) and one wheel (my rear) is not holding air as long as it should (i.e., needs to refill with an hour).

My process:
1. mount tire on rim
2. apply soapy water between both sides of rim and tire
3. inflat with CO2 to quickly expand tire (lots of pops as the tire seals against the rim)

I do not use sealant... never did last year but always had to inflat tires before a long ride (which is fine for me)

As noted above, my front tire seals fine without sealant, but the rear seems not to seat as well...

thoughts or tips?

I always use a floor pump. I didn't think c02 was recommended.

FWIW, I've never found sealant to be messy and you don't have to use much. And I've had it fix a few would've been flats.

oldpotatoe
02-03-2011, 10:34 AM
Tires are new... just mounted virgin Fusion 3's

I vote valve then. Perhaps ya got a decent LBS that has them, I do.

terrytnt
02-03-2011, 12:37 PM
Not heard CO2 was an issue, in fact, several folks indicated using a LBS high pressure pump to 'properly seat' the tire to rim. Hence the popping sound as the tire is forced into place against the rim.

I think my problem may lie with the value, since I'm having a repeat problem with the rear wheel. Checking now with my LBS to see if they have additional Fulcrum valve replacements.

bpm
02-03-2011, 12:52 PM
Try swapping the valves and see if the problem shows up on the front wheel. Sometimes just loosening the valves and retightening them can solve the issue your having.

terrytnt
02-03-2011, 01:40 PM
Good suggestion... I'll give it a try tonight

thanks,

dekindy
02-03-2011, 02:28 PM
CO2 is not generally recommended. If a floor pump is not adequate then an air compressor is preferred. I get someone to help me by holding the tire against the rim at the spot it is not sealing.

terrytnt
02-04-2011, 07:08 AM
Just called my LBS (Guys in Philly) and Bob informed me that when you replace tubeless tires (on tubeless rims, i.e., Fulcrum/ Shimano) it's always a good idea to replace the valve stems. The usual culpret is the seating of the valve stem against the rim. He suggested, as a temporary fix (until I get the replacement stems) to reseat the older stem with a little 3M cement to create a stronger seal.

Just thought I add this information to close out the thread.

As always, thanks everyone!

dekindy
02-04-2011, 08:34 AM
Just called my LBS (Guys in Philly) and Bob informed me that when you replace tubeless tires (on tubeless rims, i.e., Fulcrum/ Shimano) it's always a good idea to replace the valve stems. The usual culpret is the seating of the valve stem against the rim. He suggested, as a temporary fix (until I get the replacement stems) to reseat the older stem with a little 3M cement to create a stronger seal.

Just thought I add this information to close out the thread.

As always, thanks everyone!

That is just plain silly!

unwell_ultra
02-04-2011, 10:21 AM
Just called my LBS (Guys in Philly) and Bob informed me that when you replace tubeless tires (on tubeless rims, i.e., Fulcrum/ Shimano) it's always a good idea to replace the valve stems. The usual culpret is the seating of the valve stem against the rim. He suggested, as a temporary fix (until I get the replacement stems) to reseat the older stem with a little 3M cement to create a stronger seal.

Just thought I add this information to close out the thread.

As always, thanks everyone!


What's silly is replacing the valve stem every time you replace a tire. I rode thousands of miles on Hutchinson tires and DA tubeless rims and NEVER replaced the valve stems. Of course I did use sealant which saved me several times from flatting on the road.

Likes2ridefar
02-04-2011, 10:29 AM
What's silly is replacing the valve stem every time you replace a tire. I rode thousands of miles on Hutchinson tires and DA tubeless rims and NEVER replaced the valve stems. Of course I did use sealant which saved me several times from flatting on the road.

yeah, but not all valve stems are created equally so it's worth a shot.

maybe the rim has a minor imperfection?

I'm like you and have some stems from years ago that still work fine, but I always use sealant too.

I've never had to replace a valve stem.

terrytnt
02-04-2011, 02:27 PM
Aren't sealants somewhat messy... was able to ride all last season without a sealant and was hoping to do the same. Yes I did have to inflate for every ride but inflation usually lasted for at least a 75 miler.

However, I carry a sealant if required.

Likes2ridefar
02-04-2011, 02:31 PM
Aren't sealants somewhat messy... was able to ride all last season without a sealant and was hoping to do the same. Yes I did have to inflate for every ride but inflation usually lasted for at least a 75 miler.

However, I carry a sealant if required.


I've never found it messy and I have my "shop" in the living room of an apartment in Manhattan. However, I have dealt with tubeless and sealant for a number of years and have the method down pat.

When changing a tire, or simply removing the tire with sealant, all that's required is a paper towel or rag rubbed around the rim once or twice and it'll be perfectly clean - at least that is my experience.

benb
02-04-2011, 04:56 PM
The valve stems I have are Mavics.. they have an O-ring that goes on the stem and gets clamped down on the rim by the nut.. The O-ring was seriously deteriorated by the time I changed the tires. There is no way they would have been holding air without sealant.

Maybe try and see if you have an O-ring that can be replaced... replacing the entire valve stem sounds like someone trying to make some money.

terrytnt
02-06-2011, 09:50 AM
Likes2ridefar,

Here's the latest update, changed out the value from the front and there was no difference... air still continues to leak. Hence, it's NOT THE VALVES.

Followed the campy youtube method with a little soap/ water and with air compressor to get a good seal... still leaks air from rear.

So, I have to assume there's either a very slight imperfection with the rear rim or with the tire... my vote is the rim.

You said you perfected using a sealant. Are all sealants alike? I current have Hutchinson FAST Aire and Vittoria Pit Stop.

Can you provide a recommended sealant for the rear wheel?

dekindy
02-06-2011, 09:55 AM
Stan's sealant is generally considered the best. Caffelatex is also considered good. I use Stan's but it is a little messy so I am considering the Caffelatex because it can be installed through the stem even if the valve is not removed.

Likes2ridefar
02-06-2011, 11:39 AM
like the other poster said, stan's.

he has a video on his site for installing them and if you follow it exactly you should have no problems.

jonnyBgood
02-06-2011, 01:37 PM
I have used the Hutchinson FastAir in the past that stuff plain S^CKS!

I got a hole in a tire once and that FastAir stuff shot all over the back of my seat tube and bottom bracket area and by the time I got home -after booting my tire and using a tube- that stuff was a pain to clean off the bike.

I have used the new "Green" Stan's and it has worked really well. I use the cup they supply and use about a cup and a half in each tire.

I am currently using Mavic Ksyrium wheels with Stans valves and Michelin non-tubeless tires and a cup and a half of Stans on my cyclocross bike and haven't had anny issues all season. I usually run between 45/48 psi.

Hope this helps

Louis
02-06-2011, 01:44 PM
I while back a bought an Ultegra wheelset that gives me the option of going tubeless. Threads like this suggest to me that that may not be worth the hassle.

terrytnt
02-08-2011, 11:41 AM
Stans it is... going to my LBS this afternoon and will add just enough to seal the very small amount of air leaking between the rim and tire-side wall.

Keeping the amount small so I can keep weight down on rear wheel. As noted before, little to no leakage from front wheel...

benb
02-08-2011, 12:56 PM
If you don't have a good work area just do it in the bathtub.. Stan's is messy but it washes away with water very easily.

I don't know if I'd necessarily let the mess go down the drain though.. It does clean up in water but given it's purpose is to seal stuff up it could clog your plumbing.

Peter P.
02-08-2011, 06:50 PM
I recommend inflating the tire as-is and dunking the rim and tire in a tub of water to see if it provides any clue as to where the leak is coming from.

If it's inconclusive and you want to eliminate the tire as the cause, switch the front and rear tires and repeat the test.

A.T.&Love
02-09-2011, 03:54 PM
Has anybody here done a Stan's conversion kit on a normal 700c clincher wheelset? I've got a CX kit on it's way. Looking for horror/success stories..

LegendRider
02-09-2011, 04:03 PM
Has anybody here done a Stan's conversion kit on a normal 700c clincher wheelset? I've got a CX kit on it's way. Looking for horror/success stories..

Yes, I did it with a pair of DT R1.1 rims. No problems whatsoever. There is an excellent video at the Stan's site showing you how to do the conversion. Note: Sealant is required with non tubeless specific rims.

A.T.&Love
02-09-2011, 04:09 PM
The Stan's youtube videos seem too good to be true. Like the MTB riding over the bed of nails like 20-something times and not losing any pressure.
It's almost like 'why aren't way more people riding tubeless all the time?'