two questions about seatposts

[Climb01742]

#1: i noticed an interesting development: carbon seatpost with alu sleeves inside. perhaps an non-admission admission that 100% carbon seatpost shafts might have some, uh, issues. two examples from IRD and bontrager.

http://www.glorycycles.com/qucase.html

http://www.bontrager.com/Road/Components/Seatposts/5824.php

#2: since i've begun fiddling with tilting the nose of my saddles up a little, i've become aware (frustratingly so) of the ease (or lack thereof) of adjusting tilt. what clamp design have folks found makes adjusting tilt easier? my vote, so far, goes to bontrager. DA isn't bad. the challenge with some clamp designs is being able to adjust fore/aft and tilt independently, without messing up one to do the other.

[William]

what clamp design have folks found makes adjusting tilt easier? my vote, so far, goes to bontrager. DA isn't bad. the challenge with some clamp designs is being able to adjust fore/aft and tilt independently, without messing up one to do the other.

American Classic. Adjusting tilt is very very simple. Two independant adjustments. One for adjusting the main clamp, one for the tilt (which is easy to access). Not on the top of everyones list, but one I've found to be more then up to the job of carrying my arse over the years.

William

Warning! Advert coming...

Featuring time tested micro adjustment, tilt saddle up and down, fore and aft with no ratcheting.

Two piece 2014 aluminum alloy post means greater strength and less weight.

Strong forged cradle plate. Larger 8mm diameter clamp bolt with integrated ball swivel for accurate torque.

Improved forged head for increased strength. Easy to setup and adjust.

[dave thompson]

........... the challenge with some clamp designs is being able to adjust fore/aft and tilt independently, without messing up one to do the other.
The Salsa Shaft has two completely independent adjustments, one for fore/aft and one for tilt. It's ingenious and very easy to use.

[Dave]

The ITM Millenium/Selcof 2-bolt can be fined tuned with great accuracy and the saddle can even be moved fore/aft by loosining only the back bolt, leaving the angle undisturbed. It does require an 8mm wrench for the front bolt.

The FSA K-force has a similar 2-bolt mechanism, but uses two M5 bolts. The K-force is available in two different setbacks from Colorado Cyclist.

Thomson's 2-bolt design is also good, if you can live with the minimal setback. The straight-up model has the clamp located a full 2cm further forward than most traditional models and even the setback model is 5mm further forward.

[Bradford]

The Salsa Shaft has two completely independent adjustments, one for fore/aft and one for tilt. It's ingenious and very easy to use.

I like that post...and it comes in silver...and it comes in a 350 length. It might solve my problems.

[christian]

I don't much like the look of the Salsa Shaft head, but once you've used it, there's no going back. It's a very smart design.

- Christian

[bulliedawg]

#1: i noticed an interesting development: carbon seatpost with alu sleeves inside. perhaps an non-admission admission that 100% carbon seatpost shafts might have some, uh, issues. two examples from IRD and bontrager.

http://www.glorycycles.com/qucase.html

http://www.bontrager.com/Road/Components/Seatposts/5824.php

#2: since i've begun fiddling with tilting the nose of my saddles up a little, i've become aware (frustratingly so) of the ease (or lack thereof) of adjusting tilt. what clamp design have folks found makes adjusting tilt easier? my vote, so far, goes to bontrager. DA isn't bad. the challenge with some clamp designs is being able to adjust fore/aft and tilt independently, without messing up one to do the other.

Has anyone tried the new fangled Bontrager posts? The design looks clean and interesting.

[CalfeeFly]

#1: i noticed an interesting development: carbon seatpost with alu sleeves inside. perhaps an non-admission admission that 100% carbon seatpost shafts might have some, uh, issues. two examples from IRD and bontrager.

http://www.glorycycles.com/qucase.html

http://www.bontrager.com/Road/Components/Seatposts/5824.php



This is not new at all. Titec did it in the 90's and I still ride two of them. I prefer that method myself. One eventually cracked after many many miles and the sleeve "kicked" in to support it. I have a Selcof made the same way now.

[pale scotsman]

I'm riding a CF specialized roubaix pave seat post with an AL sleeve and while the post works fine, it's about shot after a year of use. Granted I "inherited" it from a buddy but the damn thing looks like crap where it was inserted in the frame. I don't mean scrapes, gouges and the such.

It spent about 11 months in a CAAD 7 Cannondale, un-lubed, and the post ended up turning a nasty milky white, flaky color in the frame. The post was so bad that it could not be reinserted into the frame once removed. It's like it actually swelled while in the bike. The bottom few inches had to be cut so it would go back in. Now I'm not sure if it's a QC problem or what, but I've got 10 plus year old AL posts that I'd not bat an eye at using for another 10. That CF post... that's another matter.

For the best tilt adjustment I'd go with a Thomson if you don't need setback.

[Grant McLean]

I can't imagine that the amount of time it takes to set up a seatpost is a useful method to choo-choo-choose a post (sorry Ralph Wiggam)

How often do you move your seat? I'm in for at _least_ once a decade.
Those five seconds could have been better spent? Like posing on web forums!

_G

[Vancouverdave]

It never made any sense to use a material that's not supposed to be clamped on for a component whose job description it is to be clamped. When I see a bike with a carbon post I see a cyclist who had a couple of C notes stolen from their wallet!

[Grant McLean]

Vancouverdave wrote:

"It never made any sense to use a material that's not supposed to be clamped on
for a component whose job description it is to be clamped. "


That's funny. It never made any sense to me that the seat lug is the right
spot to put a clamp in the first place. The leverage point isn't the best spot.
I think in a couple of years, all road bikes will have the extended seat tube like the Time VXRS.

_G

[Dave]

I can't imagine that the amount of time it takes to set up a seatpost is a useful method to choo-choo-choose a post (sorry Ralph Wiggam)

How often do you move your seat? I'm in for at _least_ once a decade.
Those five seconds could have been better spent? Like posing on web forums!

_G

The problem with posts that use a serrated surface is that the serrations can be so coarse the one tilts the saddle too high and the other too low. Similarly, the many designs that have unlimited tilt, but no way to control it, are a pain to set up anywhere except on a level shop floor. The 2-bolt models can make extremely small changes to the angle and even make position changes on the road by carefully loosening one bolt and tightening the other.

I agree though,that once I've got a saddle set, there's little reason to change it. I do use a level and record the amount of drop from the tail to the nose for repeatability. My Fizik Gobi, for example, feels just right when the nose is 1/2" lower than the the kicked-up tail.

[cpg]

I think in about 3 years we'll see the newest, latest, greatest, best thing since dwf waxed his back seat posts made of aluminum with a silver finish.

Curt