Campagnolo 1010a dropouts with modern derailleurs?

[nervexpro55]

I was wondering if there is any problems using modern running gear with campagnolo 1010a long version of there dropouts?

[zmudshark]

Can't imagine why there would be.

What are your concerns?

[allenwhy]

no problems whatsoever. currently have a 2010 force on one, and a 2005 chorus on another. the only tough part is fitting the wheel while spreading the stays by hand!

[Dave Wages]

I still build bikes occasionally with 1010a's and I haven't run into any issues. Plus, it's kinda nice to be able to use the bike with or without derailleurs.

allenwhy, I don't want to sound like I'm lecturing you, but spreading your frame and running a wider spaced wheel is one of the leading causes of frame and or dropout breakage that I've observed in my 15 years of framebuilding.
You're bending both the chainstays and the dropouts just a little bit when you do this, and then you ride the bike, it vibrates, loads and unloads that joint, and all the time, it has this built in stress that it's trying to relieve. Eventually, what usually happens is, either the driveside chainstay dropout tab breaks or the chainstay just in front of the dropout breaks.

If you're always running a wider wheel in an older bike, it makes alot of sense to get the frame and dropouts aligned to that wider spacing. Not only do the stays get cold set just a bit wider on each side, but the dropouts should get realigned to be parallel to each other.

Just my two cents. :no:

:beer:

[allenwhy]

Oh no, I totally agree it is something I should do! When I first put a 10 speed wheel in my 1987 Tommasini five years ago I was a little worried but unfortunately (or luckily) nothing happened so I sort of forgot about it and eventually put a 6 speed wheel in it... but yes I will for my other bike for sure before something bad happens! :bike:

[oldpotatoe]

I was wondering if there is any problems using modern running gear with campagnolo 1010a long version of there dropouts?

Nope.....Actually quite nice to have a way to change the 'b limit' adjustment w/o turning that screw.

[oldpotatoe]

I still build bikes occasionally with 1010a's and I haven't run into any issues. Plus, it's kinda nice to be able to use the bike with or without derailleurs.

allenwhy, I don't want to sound like I'm lecturing you, but spreading your frame and running a wider spaced wheel is one of the leading causes of frame and or dropout breakage that I've observed in my 15 years of framebuilding.
You're bending both the chainstays and the dropouts just a little bit when you do this, and then you ride the bike, it vibrates, loads and unloads that joint, and all the time, it has this built in stress that it's trying to relieve. Eventually, what usually happens is, either the driveside chainstay dropout tab breaks or the chainstay just in front of the dropout breaks.

If you're always running a wider wheel in an older bike, it makes alot of sense to get the frame and dropouts aligned to that wider spacing. Not only do the stays get cold set just a bit wider on each side, but the dropouts should get realigned to be parallel to each other.

Just my two cents. :no:

:beer:

More like $2..thank you for mentioning broken stays, dropouts when forcing a rear triangle out or in with a wheel and then riding it. I really get tired of hearing, "I've been doing that for 40 years and haven't broken.......etc" type stuff. Besides, it's a PIA to get a 130 wheel into a 126 frameset. COLD SET!!

[nervexpro55]

I still build bikes occasionally with 1010a's and I haven't run into any issues. Plus, it's kinda nice to be able to use the bike with or without derailleurs.

allenwhy, I don't want to sound like I'm lecturing you, but spreading your frame and running a wider spaced wheel is one of the leading causes of frame and or dropout breakage that I've observed in my 15 years of framebuilding.
You're bending both the chainstays and the dropouts just a little bit when you do this, and then you ride the bike, it vibrates, loads and unloads that joint, and all the time, it has this built in stress that it's trying to relieve. Eventually, what usually happens is, either the driveside chainstay dropout tab breaks or the chainstay just in front of the dropout breaks.

If you're always running a wider wheel in an older bike, it makes alot of sense to get the frame and dropouts aligned to that wider spacing. Not only do the stays get cold set just a bit wider on each side, but the dropouts should get realigned to be parallel to each other.

Just my two cents. :no:

:beer:
Thanks for input Dave. Im actually going to have my next custom frame made with the 1010a dropouts and wanted to know if there was any compatabilty issues between them and current drivetrains.